Currently, when I try to start the tractor, it kicks back. I am using the hand crank, and normally it would be 1 or 2 tries and fires right up. Now, it almost pulls my arm out of socket when it happens. Leading up to this, I had my son sickle bar mowing. We were late in the season, so weeds were high, and we were 3/4 done. The tractor shut off on him while mowing, and I haven't been able to start it since. My sense is that the timing is off, but I am not sure where to start checking. I have spark, and have checked some of the simple items. Looking for suggestions but need to start slow. I'm not that familiar with the tractor. I do have a manual.
- Thread starter rbloom44
- Start date
STOP hand-cranking it at least 'til you fund out what's wrong 'fore you get hurt!
Does it have a mag or a distributor?
Did the mag or distributor somehow get bumped hard enough to move it, or did the sparkplug wire(s) get pulled out and replaced in the wrong order?
The timing needs to be checked, with spark not earlier than TDC, and it needs to be determined if the wires are installed in the correct firing order.
Even a cracked distributor cap could cause "kickback".
Does it have a mag or a distributor?
Did the mag or distributor somehow get bumped hard enough to move it, or did the sparkplug wire(s) get pulled out and replaced in the wrong order?
The timing needs to be checked, with spark not earlier than TDC, and it needs to be determined if the wires are installed in the correct firing order.
Even a cracked distributor cap could cause "kickback".
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Even after you get it fixed, you will still be holding the crank wrong. You should not wrap your thumb around the handle, just your four fingers, and hold it such that it is pulled from your hand when it kicks back rather than dislocating your shoulder or breaking your thumb.
It does sound like the timing is off. Pull the #1 (front) spark plug, and stick your thumb in the hole. Rotate the engine by the crank (with the ignition OFF!) until you feel air whooshing out around your thumb. Shine a light in and you can see the piston coming up. Turn the engine until the piston is as high as it will go. That is "top dead center" on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder.
Follow the spark plug wire from the #1 plug back to the distributor cap. Mark it somehow or remember which one it is. Remove the distributor cap. The rotor underneath should be pointed right at where the #1 spark plug wire attaches to the distributor cap. If it isn't, it's out of time.
The question is, why?
Timing is gear driven so the tractor can't just "jump time" unless there is something very very wrong. Is the distributor or magneto loose where it mounts to the engine?
It does sound like the timing is off. Pull the #1 (front) spark plug, and stick your thumb in the hole. Rotate the engine by the crank (with the ignition OFF!) until you feel air whooshing out around your thumb. Shine a light in and you can see the piston coming up. Turn the engine until the piston is as high as it will go. That is "top dead center" on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder.
Follow the spark plug wire from the #1 plug back to the distributor cap. Mark it somehow or remember which one it is. Remove the distributor cap. The rotor underneath should be pointed right at where the #1 spark plug wire attaches to the distributor cap. If it isn't, it's out of time.
The question is, why?
Timing is gear driven so the tractor can't just "jump time" unless there is something very very wrong. Is the distributor or magneto loose where it mounts to the engine?
I replaced the points and the ignition coil, and was able to fire the engine right up. Feeling accomplished, I hooked up the cycle bar, and began cutting. Very quickly the tractor lost power, and was not able to restart. It was back to the original issue. My original cap position was with the clips at 12&6 o'clock. Once I had the engine running, it sounded better when rotated 60 degrees.This morning I rotated my distributor cap 135 degrees from my 2nd position and was able to fire the engine right up. As it ran, it sputtered and shut off. The gear from the distributor rotor looks good, but what do I investigate next?
I posted new information. It appears I have the same issue, but can adjust the distributor cap to compensate. The cap is locked in with the tab, so not freely rotating. Also, I had a buddy help me review the mechanical timing of the engine, and everything looks good, it is just the ignition timing that appears to be moving.
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