Buddy Woodson
Member
Left to Right, Triple, Double, Lo-boy, Shop Mule.
All built out of parts tractors.
All built out of parts tractors.
- Thread starter Buddy Woodson
- Start date
Stan - Florida
Well-known Member
Cool tractors!
How wide is that triple? Also, how do you ever get all three engines synchronized? Or two, for that matter.
How wide is that triple? Also, how do you ever get all three engines synchronized? Or two, for that matter.
Buddy Woodson
Member
The triple is 89" wide so it hauls fine on an 8' gooseneck. I synchronized the engines when I built the triple and double and everything is controlled by one throttle lever. They don't have to be perfect and as an old multi engine tractor puller once said, they learn to like each other!!
Buddy Woodson
Member
Mine driveline mods are all done internally. Harry
only used one differental.
only used one differental.
Buddy Woodson
Member
No, I drive it from the right seat . The left steering
wheel is free wheeling since I removed the sector
from that steering box. It's a good parade seat for a
passenger. I debated on using one seat in the
center but I wanted to keep it looking as "A" as
possible. My daughter does a great job of making it
look real!! Thanks for the question!
wheel is free wheeling since I removed the sector
from that steering box. It's a good parade seat for a
passenger. I debated on using one seat in the
center but I wanted to keep it looking as "A" as
possible. My daughter does a great job of making it
look real!! Thanks for the question!
Buddy Woodson
Member
I rotated the final drives 90 degrees forward which
makes it 8 1/2" lower and shorter. The hard part is
the holes don't line up and you have to drill and tap
some new holes (could make an adaptor plate if
you have machine shop tools). I also cut new
pathways for the brake rods to keep them in the
original position. I did all mine without machine shop
tools so it can be done, just takes patience. I cut 8
1/2" out of the front knees and spindles to lower the
front. I also had to make new fender brackets to
relocate the fenders.
makes it 8 1/2" lower and shorter. The hard part is
the holes don't line up and you have to drill and tap
some new holes (could make an adaptor plate if
you have machine shop tools). I also cut new
pathways for the brake rods to keep them in the
original position. I did all mine without machine shop
tools so it can be done, just takes patience. I cut 8
1/2" out of the front knees and spindles to lower the
front. I also had to make new fender brackets to
relocate the fenders.
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