indicator light alternator

roy404

New User
i am trying to wire up an indicator light for IH 404 after changing generator to alternator and I need wiring instructions. where is a source for this info
 
If your using a Delco 10si that is easy. You have the big charge stud that you use a 10 gauge wire to the AMP gauge and then the 2 wire plug. The #2 wire of the plug goes to the charge wire and the #1 wire has the idiot light in line with it to the ignition side the side that is hot when turned on. If no amp gauge the charge wire goes to the solenoid the battery side
 
If you're using a Delco 10SI family of three wire alternators its easy to use a charge indicator "idiot light" which can serve the DUAL purpose of initial alternator excitation PLUS prevent ignition feedback so the tractor stops when you turn ignition OFF. From the IGN output of the ignition switch or hot input side of the ignition coil wire an INCANDESCENT small idiot light (NOT an LED) to the alternators small side 1R terminal. That will excite the alternator and be on when not charging but off if she's charging. You could use a resistor in parallel so it still excites if the lamp burned out. The other small side 2F wires down to the alternators big main charge output stud for voltage sensing and the output stUd wires to the load SIDE ON AMMETER or eventually to the hot side of battery so it receives charge. Of course NEG ground well duh

John T
 
According to diagram I have of an IH 404 it already has a charge indicator light for the generator.

It shows a light blue wire coming from the indicator light, through a connector plug to a junction with one light blue wire going to GEN tab on regulator and another light blue going to ARMature on generator.

Use a Delco 3 wire alternator. Connect BAT wire from regulator to output of alternator. Loop #2 pin of edge connector on alternator to output stud.

Remove or tape off light blue wire from junction that went to GEN on regulator. Connect light blue wire from ARMature on generator to #1 pin on alternator.

My diagram shows a Red wire from BAT terminal on regulator (which now connects to output stud on alternator) to a junction with 2 other red wires. One of those wires goes to large battery connection on the starter solenoid, other red wire goes through a junction block to the ignition switch.

I would replace the red wires from output on alternator, to junction and to Start solenoid with a 10 gauge wire. Your alternator has higher current capability and 10 gauge wire will have increased efficiency and safety factor to carry that current.
 

i am trying to wire up an indicator light for IH 404 after changing generator to alternator and I need wiring instructions. where is a source for this info I am using a one wire Delco alternator. All the old wiring was burnt off and I am rewiring with new wire.
 
No way you can wire it up with an idiot light with a 1 wire alternator. A 3 wire wired up like I said is how you need to do it. As simple alternator made for a 1980 Chevy PICKUP is all you need and wire as I said in my first post
 
one wire nor really possible unless heroic electronics are used. Put a amp meter. or volt meter on it and move on to other things.
Or as noted below get a 10SI for a 67 chevy nova. Jim
 
Lots of wrong information here if your 1 wire alternator is based on the Delco 10SI alternator that is so common, it is very easy to connect it to a charge light. Look down at the two regulator blades at the rear edge of the alternator, they are marked #1 and #2 and make sure they are not connected by a little web of metal at the base of the blades. If no little web between the blades, then just wire it up like a normal 3 wire 10SI Delco. #1 regulator blade to the gen light, #2 regulator blade to the Bat terminal on the alternator rear. Buy a Delco regulator harness repair plug to put in the side of the alternator to make a safe and professional looking job of it.
The beauty of the one wire alternator is that it is so simple to wire into an ammeter or voltmeter system, but if you want it to start charging at slow idle or need to connect it to a charge light, it will work just as well as a 3 wire alternator for those applications. Use one of the many Delco 10SI wiring diagrams available on this site to help you finish wiring the alternator to the tractor.
 
I agree with this idea for the most part. But the experience I have is that replacement regulators come in 3 varieties: "Original" that really require 3 wires, One wires that are re-circuited that no longer use the spade connectors and may require higher RPM and often draw excessive standby current. And a variety that operates exactly like a 3 wire but does not need an exciter circuit to start quickly, but does operate the charge light #1 spade. Much depends on where the device was made or rebuilt. If your supplier matches the last "Type" cool Beans. Jim
 
Yes, I purchase "1 wire" regulators from several vendors. I have never seen a type that will draw standby current unless your still finding a 40+ year old Delco red cap that has the little internal connector to the BAT stud. Everything I have found in the last 40 years or so draws no standby current, as any connection to battery power is blocked by the rectifier pack, just like a std 3 wire alternator. They adjust line voltage by sensing field voltage, so no sense blade #2 connection. They also excite at 1000-1500 engine rpm with no excite current to the #1 excite blade
The vendor I use most also includes an instruction sheet with the regulators saying it will operate fine as a 1 wire, but if lower excite rpm is wanted or a gen light is used, just connect it to the #1 regulator blade.
 

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