1944 H - starting slow?

banjoman09

Well-known Member
This is the tractor I have fully "restored" ....runs and working good- I still have one issue. It always starts, but, it starts very slow. Here's what I know; the genny is working and charging...the batt has 6.5 volts ; the battery is 4 months old ; the starter seems to be good ; all cables are new..... when you hit the button- it trys to start- drags- then goes ahead and starts. Any ideas?
 
New cables as in 0 or 00?? If you used the battery cable you buy form auto parts stores now days they will not cut it on a 6 volt system. You need battery cable about as big around as you thumb or index finger not the #2 or #4 auto type cables. Or the starter it self is going bad and if it is then you sorry to say did not do a true restore. A TRUE restore is to bring it back 100% to what it was the day it rolled out of the factory. The term restore is a pet peeve of mine and I hate the term because few do a true restore they just fix it up and call it good
 
Battery cables Need to be O gauge. Here is how to test the theory. Use a volt meter from the battery hot terminal to the starter terminal (including the big switch), put it on a 20 volt range if adjustable. Watch the meter when starting. If more than a volt is shown on the meter, the cables are too thin. Jim
 
Oh Lordy I was afraid you would see this! LOL..I know - ok? But you guys are most likely right - I think I bought the 4g or 6g automotive cables. I will look in the morning. Thanks.
 
Remember 6 volt system needs basically twice as heavy wire as a 12 volt system for starter to work the same. Check cables at the connections also.

Joe
 
Now days on a 6 volt system you have to make your own battery cables. the 2 gauge or 4 gauge that are used on 12 volt system cannot carry the amps needed for a 6 volt system. I bet it you grabbed a battery cable and tried to start it at the same time and you have the auto cables you would find they heat up fast because that cannot carry the amps needed for 6 volts
 
"the starter seams to be good"... well was it rebuilt with the restoration or just painted? has to be the starter if all else is new, and no such thing as tractor not starting with automotive cables with a good starter. and yes i know it needs the heavy cables with 6 volt. sure sounds like brushes and bushings worn out in that starter.
 
Does the battery ground cable connect to the battery box? Rusty battery boxes make a poor ground connection. Get a longer cable and ground the battery to a clean bare casting close to the starter. Also make sure the starter mounting is clean and shinny. Rust and paint make poor ground connections.
 
Ground the battery directly to the starter mount bolt. I did that, and my H starts immediately.
 

Original battery cables on an H were 2 gauge. Replacing with 1 gauge is a big improvement. 0 gauge is very little improvement, and 00 gauge is totally unnecessary. If the tractor will not start easily with 1 gauge cables, there is another problem somewhere.
 
Many times I make my own battery cables and I use welding cable in place of them
 
The big push button switch can also be problematic. See if it gets hot when trying to start. That's what my problem was on my T6.
I also make cables using welding cable.
Dennis
 
2 gauge at least from every thing I have even messed with on 6 volts was thought to be way to small. I know they sure heat up if used on 6 volts
 
(quoted from post at 15:44:00 10/07/17) 2 gauge at least from every thing I have even messed with on 6 volts was thought to be way to small. I know they sure heat up if used on 6 volts

Yes, that is why the replacement cables from IH were 1 gauge.
 
My H starter acted the same; turned out to be 1 field coil strap was broken off the cable stud. Now with the field coil straps soldered to a new cable stud, 0 gauge cables and new starter push button the engine nearly "jumps" into life. What a difference!

Check inside the your starter or better yet take it to a starter repair shop that can also use a growler to test the armature.
 
I think your right- but I will use 2 AGW for my cables- had one original on it and that's what it is- looks big enough to work. The starter is "used" from another guy; sounds like a good idea; just to make sure it is good. Thanks!
 
Hooking jumper cables to the starter on the floor, and having it jump and spin is only a basic test to make sure you don't have a paperweight. The tests they perform at auto parts stores are only slightly more sophisticated than that, and only slightly less useful.

The starter shop should completely work over the starter, including brushes, bushings, cleaning/truing up the armature, and testing with a growler to determine if there are any burned windings.
 

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