I have 560 gas that just up and died, quit running the other day. We have looked at various things, gas flow seems to be OK. It has electronic ignition and we have replaced the coil, spark seems OK. Nothing seems to help yet. Periodically if it sits a while it will fire for a couple of seconds then no more. I think it must be carburetor. We have had the gas line off and checked the filter that sits in the carburetor. That looks fine the filter is open ended. Is that correct or should the filter be enclosed on the end so the gas has to flow out the sides?
 
A test light is part of the answer. Auto Zone or any parts store and cheap. Use it by attaching the wire end to ground, and touch the probe to the side of the distributor where the small wire to the coil is attached (nut and terminal). With it in Neutral and a helper, crank the engine trying to start it. As it cranks, the test light will blink off and on. if the points are working. If it blinks only when cranking, and stops blinking and stays off with the key on that is OK. If it stays on all the time, Cranking or not, the points are not closing, or are contaminated and not conducting, or are disconnected internally. If it never blinks and never comes on, the Key is failing, or the resistor wire to the coil is not conducting. Let us know what these tests show. Jim
 
#1 no such thing as a coil with and internal resister. They are just wound different so as to be a true 12 volt coil.

#2 even with an electronic ignition the test Jim said to do with the test light will work the same way since the electronic ignition does the same thing as points do it just does it electronically

#3 as for gas flow pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in under 3 minutes and yes catch the gas to look for water dirt etc.
 
Yes, I will check gas flow. I am a little confused to where to put test light on distributor as the two wires entering the distributor enter at the same place with no bolt and nut to connect to. The coil is mounted about 18 inches from distributor. I raised animals all my life and always hired this kind of work done. But am trying to learn more. Thanks so much.
 
While cranking (as in my earlier response) put the test light on the coil terminal connected to the distributor. It will act as I described. Jim
 
Ok since you have not bolt/nut on the side of the distributor then hook the ground up on the test light as Jim says then put the test probe on the non ignition side of the coil. I.E. the wire on the coil that goes into the distributor
 
Yippee. If you take the coil wire and hold it 1/4" from the block with insulated pliers, will it throw a nice blue spark? Jim
 
I have used a tool like this "high energy ignition tester"...

https://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T71240-Energy-Ignition-Tester/dp/B00A8FO87S

...on many vehicles, forklifts, tractors, boats, to verify spark is working properly. One turns the threaded rod until the points are spaced out (to the 1/4" gap Jim mentioned). Place it where you can see it while cranking the ignition.

This can be used in any plug position and is helpful because it also checks the integrity of the distributor cap and the pole/rotor.

I would also drain the carb at minimum, many fuel problems have been caused by water accumulating in the bottom of the carb bowl if the tractor sits out thru temp changes with a nearly empty tank (inside can "sweat") and water is heavier than gasoline, coincidentally the carb bowl is the lowest point of the gravity fuel system.

I have seen many rounded-off drain plugs on carbs, at that point you have to split the carb, clean & dry all of the gas off, and use a torch to heat the casting to twist out the plug with vise grips....or setup on a machine and drill/tap, etc.

Cleaning the filter screen above the sediment bowl is also a great idea. That involves draining the tank.
 
(reply to post at 05:02:41 09/05/17)
Probably the best money I've spent on my 450 is the in-tank screen that you install on top of your sediment bowl. Now any crud thats laying on the floor of the tank stays there and doesn't enter the fuel line.
 
The coil wire does not go bad while holding it. If bad it will not allow spark and wil likely cause Cap and or Rotor failure. I am trending toward coil or less likely Condenser
 
But because it is electronic ignition, condenser is not the issue. Substitute a known good coil. They are less than 20 bucks. Jim
 
I did not have a coil long enough to try so I took it to the local Napa store. He checked the continuity and a said coil wire was fine. I tried a jumper wire in place of coil wire and got the same results. I also did the one minute check on gas flow and got about a pint. The rotor is turning. No go.
 
I was unclear. Replace the coil. not the wire. A failing coil can make one or two sparks and then quit. Jim
 
If you are having the exact same problem as when it died like it was shut off, and you are sure the new coil is for the system as specified by the maker of the electronic ignition, and the voltage to the key and from the key to the coil (which could be a resistor wire) and the resistor, if it has one you can see, are all good. Replace the electronic ignition unit. You could also go back to points and condenser.
((( IDEA ))) Bread board a set of points and condenser as follows: Put the old set of points (or a different set it does not matter) on a 1X6X 12" piece of pine. Fasten them down through the screw slots with wood screws. Put a condenser next to them using a screw to hold down the little bracket. Attach the condenser bracket to the screw holding the fixed point to the wood. Attach another lead from that hold down screw to an alligator clip to hook the the engine ground on the tractor. Remove the wire from the coil that goes to the electronic ignition. Hook the movable point to the coil small terminal that was connected to the electronic ignition. Put the coil high voltage wire close to the block 1/4". Turn on the ignition and with a small screw driver move the points together and apart. If there is now a consistent crisp blue spark, the electronic ignition is at fault. Jim
 
Thanks so much Jim. I took it to the local mechanic this AM. Time to get some other things done. Thanks for your help.
 

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