Update Farmall C and Farmall B

smcIND

Member

I went and picked up the B today. Spent 5 hours looking for all of the parts.
Still have a few to go. First question is the crank pulley is not seated all the way on
the fan will hit it . What is the best way to press on the pulley the rest of the way.
Just need to move 1/8" to be all the way in with clearance.
Attached it what it looks like. Figured it out it is a 1946.

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto2222.jpg"/>
 
Warm it with a blow drier, or propane torch to about 200 degrees, not more. Use the bolt and washer (center of crank) to pull it on. I would make sure the bolt threads were lubricated before twisting on it. If you pound on it, put a pipe around the bolt and hit things very square. Crooked is a broken pulley. Jim
 
Also planned on going to the auction next month to see if I can get the FARMALL C . But may be reconsidering that . Had to pull the C out to get to the B. front tires are shot, rears at loaded and one rim is rusted bad and other is
got a big cut and is bulging out . plus has to be put back together to see if it will run. Don't want to drop
much money on it and then have to buy tires all around and maybe a rear rim or 2. Would be in a lot of money on just a C.
Any thoughts ?


<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto2223.jpg"/>
 
The steering assy is in the road to get any way to press it on. You need to reove the steerig assy then you can make a bracket then use a hy jack to prss it the rest of the way on. Those are a press fit and most of the time using a hy jace is the only way to press them on. The crank may not be threaded to use a threaded rod to install. I made a bracket that fastens to the boss back behind the bell housing so a hy jack can be used to press on. You are at risk of breaking the cast by using the holes where the pedestal bolts on. Some take more pressure than others when installing thats why i used the bosses located on the bell housing to avoid breaking the block at the front. I have found a couple of the blocks that were broke using those holes. Using heat on the pulley will put too much heat on the seal if you are not careful. Remember there is a reason the pulley was not pressed on in the beginning. Twisting threaded rod threaded into the crank and breaking is no fun.
 
Or you could look at the Super C on Craig's list, already all done, and save yourself a bundle of money.
 
the steering sector is still on the tractor i dont know how many yu have removed and replaced but it can be a mess if you dont use a press on and pull off device that wont break anything they are all different some are easier to remove and replace than others but all are press fit. I have done at least 20 or so of them. The A,B,BN and C,SC are the same. Not all are threaded crankshafts.
 
This one does have the threaded hole in the end of the crank. I am going to go get a bolt that will fit and see if I can press it the rest of the way on .
 
(quoted from post at 07:32:18 08/20/17) This one does have the threaded hole in the end of the crank. I am going to go get a bolt that will fit and see if I can press it the rest of the way on .

Definitely worth a try, if it doesn't work go to plan B. I have pulled them on that way.
 

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