Farmall m 5th gear

I have just finished a complete rebuild of my transmission replacing every single bearing and seal I haven't ran it yet or filled it full of fluid yet but I wanted to make sure that my fifth gear engaging looks normal? It seems as if it is not fully engaging fifth gear. From the pictures you can see what I am talking about.
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Can I ask how you got the transmission top off - did they bolts come out or did some break off. I want to remove a couple of bolts from the top of of my M and am worried about twisting off the bolts.
 
The engagement depth into 5th is not far, like 5/32" The wear pattern on the input shaft splines shown in your next to last image shows this depth. I think the wear pattern shows enough taper towards working its way out of gear, that I would use a dremel tool with a diamond burr to undercut the face of every spline making the shape just the tiniest amount smaller toward the front of the tractor, and doing the same for the female splines on the 4th/5th slider. I am pretty good with a Dremel The other option is to replace the gears, If you know it was not jumping out prior to rebuilding, risking it is not a bad option. At least you can get at it through the belt drive opening to replace it if it does jump out. I have never seen anyone create a deeper travel on the shift rail by changing the location of the ball/spring detent and stops. It could be an option, but would require some thinking, a bit of fabrication, and adjustment by grinding to get it right. Jim
 
I wanted to make sure that my fifth gear engaging looks normal? It seems as if it is not fully engaging fifth gear. From the pictures you can see what I am talking about.

I have installed a washer (machine bushing) onto the input gear before I installed the bearings onto the shaft to move the drive gear/shaft deeper into the transmission. It works, you just have to make sure that the lower gear is still meshing good. If you look at the parts book, I'm installing the washers between #40 &amp; #42. Charlie U
 
One to compare with. Removed this one when installing a 9 speed. No problem jumping out of gear. If you can blow picture up it's easy to see how far it engaged from the shinny wear pattern on 5th splines. If the sliding gear has space before bottoming on end of input shaft, most have space. Shim or shims can be added to spacer between input shaft bearings. That will move input shaft closer to sliding gear. Don't go overboard on spacing and put constant mesh out of whack.
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Sorry Charlie, being a slow on type and putting a picture on I didn't see your post until after posting.
 
I was careful to put all of the shims back to their original position I didn't have a problem before with it jumping out of gear I just wanted to make sure that there is suppose to be a space between 5th and the constant mesh gear before it bottoms out. Thank you for your advice
 
I see what your talking about is the gap normal
though between 5th and constant mesh gear before
it bottoms outs. It may of been the same way before
I removed everything from the transmission but
didn't pay close enough attention. Thank you for
your reply
 
Yeah I thought about maybe the shift fork being bent but I did look them over carefully before I installed the transmission cover and I think as long as it is enganging into the constant mesh gear as before I shouldn't have a problem. Thank you
 
It's really not to bad I've removed two Farmall M covers now and the best advice I can give is to get PB blaster and let it soak for about two weeks on the bolts before you try to remove any bolts then apply a little heat to each bolt but if you can't do that then just tap each bolt with a hammer to shock the bolt so to speak then remove. Lift cover straight up because of the shift forks it helps to have a cherry picker or two people with strong backs I've done it with another person lifting it straight of and using wood to help pry it open. A high lift jack works well to get it broke free if its set for a number of years without the cover being removed.
 
No shims come in the place I meant. Front input shaft bearing, bearing retaining ring and bearing retainer place shaft forward and rear in input shaft housing. If the spacer behind that bearing is made longer it will move input shaft closer to 5th sliding gear for deeper engagement. Can't move shaft a bunch or key won't go in front of bearing for drive flange and you don't want pilot bearing going to deep in input shaft. But usually there's plenty of room.
 
Ahh I see now after looking at your picture closely lucky for me I don't have the drive shaft bolts on tight just stuck on there with new rubber washers. Do you think removing the constant mesh gear and pulling off the first bearing then installing a spacer is worth it in my case?
 
After finally getting home to take another look I can see the wear on the constant mesh gear from where it's wore in the past and the 5th gear when engaged covers all of the old wear marks so that's good I guess
 
Only if there's a concern about engagement depth or the spacer was worn. Sometimes spacers are found with several thousands worn off the end or ends from the input drive flange being or getting loose or something getting in the bearing causing the inner race to spin.
 

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