300 Utility

Hi, new here. I recently bought a 300 utility to take care of our family hunting land. The tractor had sat for a few years before taking it over. What I am looking for is advice on if it is a good idea to stick some money into or move on.

It seems to run good but I will list some things that require some attention. I have noticed about 3 inches of freeplay in the clutch and it is adjusted as far as it will go already. If there is any kind of pressure on drive train, for instance on incline, it is very difficult to change gears. So assuming it needs new clutch.

Another thing is there is a lot of slop in the steering system, tried jacking up the front end to see where it is coming from. Seems the spindles have some freeplay before they move the drag links and then they have some play as well. At slow speeds it isn't a huge issue but on the road, one wheel will take off wobbling at times.

The last thing is it had fluid in the rear tires and is showing some surface rust. My plan was to get the fluid out, put tubes in and paint to stop further rusting.

So after doing some searching on these forums I have come to realize that parts specific to the utility tractors are going to be hard to find. Steering system being the main one. Does this tractor have the same engine as one of the more common farmalls, how about the transmission? So back to my main concern would it be dumb to invest money into this tractor? I don't want to start investing only to be broke down for good one day.
 
Your tractor is one of the handiest of the utility tractors available. The reason it has difficulty shifting is ta adjustment. I assume yours has a TA handle on the
left side. When it is not adjusted, the transmission locks the gear teeth because the TA system won't turn backwards unless the TA front clutch is released. THe
engine clutch might need to be replaced if the freeplay cannot be adjusted ~an inch and a half. But if it is holding engine power, check the following info for
adjusting the TA:

The process (as I do it): Set the clutch free play at 1 inch down from all the way up measured at the foot plate to cast contact in the pedal arm. this can be felt by
hand. In an open area with nothing to run into, use low gear, and measure the point that letting up on the pedal causes the tractor to begin to move. this is the
engagement point of the master clutch. The TA linkage is now adjusted so it begins to be released at this position of the foot pedal. further depressing the pedal
releases the TA clutch fully. (usually another 3/4" or so to an inch of foot travel. This assures that the TA clutch is fully engaged when the master clutch applies
power through it. It also assures that the full pedal depression releases the TA clutch so shifting is not bound up. The lever should apply and fully release the TA
clutch very near the center of its travel. Doing this compensates for linkage wear and I have had no issues doing it this way.

The steering is a matter of replacing those loose bushings and ball tierod ends. Make sure there is lube in the steering box (buy a manual! The steering is not the
strongest but if not abused will serve. Jackson Power Steering Co. Makes a Kit for it that replaces the weak parts, but the linkages still need replacement. I own a
350 U and have since I was 8. Jim
 
All old tractors break down sometime. Steering will cost a good bit to repair. T/A clutch probably not releasing is probably the reason shifter hangs, but with that much free travel the main clutch may not also. Two kinds of clutch linage setups can be found. Depends if someone changed yours along the way. Would get a operators manual and try to adjust everything before proceeding. If it can't be adjusted one or both clutches may need replaced. Maybe a T/A if wanting a working one. I assume it has a T/A, or is it one without? Most engine parts are the same as the farmall models. Engine block, front engine cover and some manifolds the main difference. Most transmission parts the same except for ring and pinion ratio and axle shafts. Does the hydraulics work okay?
Only you can decide what is best for you.
 

I have the operators manual and tried adjusting the clutch according to it. The T/A does work, but I cant adjust the engine clutch to any less than 3" of freeplay.

I am trying to get a feel for what parts are going to be tough to find. That is why I was asking if some of the major components are shared with other more common farmalls. Thanks for the replies.
 
NW MN, found someone that would do the clutch. Although I see myself as fairly mechanically inclined, wasn't sure I wanted to take on splitting the tractor.

Im estimating that it would take $1500 to get most of these issues fixed up, the thing that hangs me up is does it make sense to invest money into this thing. I just don't want to invest into it only to have a part fail that can not be replaced.
 
It is going to serve you well. THink of the investment in a smaller new tractor that also has electronics and cheap plastic parts. You are on the right track. Jim
 

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