replace sediment bowl on tractor?


On my Hydro 70 what are the pros and cons to replacing sediment bowl and copper line with flexible fuel line with in-line filter? Also if I keep sediment bowl does the strainer sold on this website that goes in sediment bowl top do any good?

Joe
 
In all the years I have worked on tractors I have found 99% of the time an in line fuel filter will cause more problems then they will ever fix. Thrown so many of them away on tractor that did not run right and after pulling them and making sure the correct filter screen is in place in the sediment bowl I have not ever gotten called back because of a fuel issue
 
(quoted from post at 11:28:10 07/16/17)
On my Hydro 70 what are the pros and cons to replacing sediment bowl and copper line with flexible fuel line with in-line filter? Also if I keep sediment bowl does the strainer sold on this website that goes in sediment bowl top do any good?

Joe

The sediment bowl you have now should have that strainer in it already, and the fuel line is made of steel, not copper, unless someone has replaced it. A sediment bowl that does indeed have the strainer in it is far better than any in-line filter.
 
I disagree with the other comments about how effective a loose fitting piece of brass screen in a sediment bowl is at filtering gas.

I use a Mr. GASKET Clear View gasoline filter on my tractors, the chrome plated ends have hose barbs, 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" available. Easy to install and service once you install rubber fuel line. I've used them for 35 years, they even filter water out of gasoline as well as any debris that gets by my sediment bowl screens. Easy to remove and clean the removable nylon filter sleeve. Plus the barrel of the filter is Pyrex, easy to see if the filter is clean. They're $12.95 at Summit Racing, pack of three replaceable filter sleeves is $9.49, but they are cleanable with spritz of carb cleaner.

I've used them on 250 cc motorcycles, 10 hp air cooled engines, 35 hp Farmalls, they're rated to 400 hp.
 
I have the screens inthe sediment bowls and rubber line and the Fram in line see thru still get filter blockage from what comes thru the brass screens. Some tanks just are dirty takes some times to get the real fines out. But the filters are easy to replace and eash to check for flow.
 
Sure they cause a problem when they are full of dirt thats why they are used. I see lots of the see thru ones at shows on old tractors and they do plug cause they are full of dirt.
 
Ah but the sediment bowl system works better and last longer and the cost of up keep is almost ZERO since most of the time you can pull the bowl off clean it out put it on and go again but an in line filter will cost you $5-10 every time you need to replace it and it will leave you parked right when you need to machine plus they can be a fire hazard to boot I'll not use them and I'll NEVER tell others to use them
 
If the screen and gasket are installed correctly they do not fit loosely since the gasket holds them up and the bowl it then pushed up hard on them. Shoot the U.S. Navy use a sediment bowl sort of filter on there subs in there air systems and they work better then any other system they have ever tried. I cannot say more about the system because the rest of it is classified
 
Obviously there are differing opinions from two good tractor guys on this topic.

My experience is that I do best leaving the sediment bowl and adding an inline filter. The sediment bowl will really collect water well and it's easy to see when you're out of fuel. I've never had fuel flow problem through an inline filter.

If it has a copper line it is best to replace it with steel or steel and flex fuel line. Vibration can fracture the copper line and result in a devastating fire.
 
The designers of the tractor equipped it with a sediment bowl and a screen of that mesh for a reason. That reason is, any fines that will pass through the screen are of absolutely no threat to the engine.

So instead of these fines passing harmlessly through the carburetor, into the cylinder, and out the exhaust as ash, while you run all day uninterrupted, they collect and plug your inline fuel filter, shutting you down and leaving you stranded because you just installed your last spare filter and haven't had a chance to get out and buy more, or forgot to grab that spare on your way out the door this morning, or just never thought ahead enough to have spares on hand in the first place...
 
Next you will be saying that oil bath air cleaners are infinitely better than dry pleated paper air cleaners which have 99.5+% cleaning effectiveness.

I'm sure you have never used the Mr. GASKET Clear View filters, probably never seen one. Why should we have any confidence in your opinion?
 
(quoted from post at 05:43:58 07/17/17) Next you will be saying that oil bath air cleaners are infinitely better than dry pleated paper air cleaners which have 99.5+% cleaning effectiveness.

I'm sure you have never used the Mr. GASKET Clear View filters, probably never seen one. Why should we have any confidence in your opinion?

Actually, the oil bath air filters ARE more efficient. They got phased out because they simply could not supply enough air for the modern, turbo-charged diesel engines, without making them so large as to physically not be able to fit under the hood.

In a size that DOES fit under the hood, yes, the dry, paper filters are better.
 
My understanding is the oil bath air cleaners are better with smaller engines - especially compared to the "K&N" paper filters. The problem is the larger the engine or the bigger the air volume flowing through the larger the oil bath cleaner needs to be. There comes a point when the space they take up is more than can fit under the hood - people would rather that space go towards the air conditioner. Plus the oil bather filter is many times more expensive to install compared to a paper filter. While over the life of the machine the oil bath will be cheaper - the manufacturer is worried about production costs and sale price - not return on investment 20 years from now.


Given the age of the machines using oil bath filters - how many have suffered a failure that can be traced back to ineffective air filtration? Although some might be traced to NEGLECT of the oil bath air cleaner. I notice Toyota (as an option) will retrofit their engines (Land Cruiser desert safari) to oil bath filters when equipped for true desert use in India and Saudi Arabia. The most common is a "cyclone" precleaner on a snorkel the leads to the oil bath air cleaner - looks remarkably similar to the set up on my old Farmall only with 50 years of technology to make it more effective. The oil bath air cleaner is like a $300 option (not including snorkel).
 
Well at least now I know not to believe you since yo uhave no clue.

And as for the oil bath it has been used for decades and it works very well. Shoot it was used well into the 60 till they figured out another way to milk $$ from preople
 
(quoted from post at 11:28:10 07/16/17)
On my Hydro 70 what are the pros and cons to replacing sediment bowl and copper line with flexible fuel line with in-line filter? Also if I keep sediment bowl does the strainer sold on this website that goes in sediment bowl top do any good?

Joe

I've wondered the same thing about getting rid of the sediment bowl and also about that strainer they sell at YT. On my two Farmalls, I use the sediment bowl with no inline filter with few problems. A couple of times I have had to clean the outlet from the fuel tank into the sediment bowl. When i bought my M it had an inline filter, but I removed it.

One thing I don't like about the sediment bowls is getting the screen and gasket on with no leaking. I think both of my tractors have two gaskets on them right now, because I could not get a good seal with a single gasket. Maybe it is just me.
 

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