Farmall M Questions

45Farmall M

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I have a 45 Farmall M with a 450 head. I have a stock c-248 block and I want to run fire crater pistons but I am not sure if I should run M fire crater or 450 fire craters. I have read that I could run 450 pistons sleeveless in an M but I am not sure. Any help is appreciated. Thanks-Ben
 
4 inch is all you can get in there unless, u do some serious machine work to the block ! What u need the power for, a puller ?
 
Know of some that run the 4-1/8 pistons in a M block after the sleeves are out. Depends on how good or close to size the bore is without sleeves for correct clearance and use. hopefully some honing needed for correct clearance. Some used counter bore filler rings. One way to get the filler rings is to put the old sleeves in a lath and turn the ID at top of sleeve to bore ID. What's left is the filler ring after a little dress up. If engine needs another cylinder rebuild after that the block is bored for 4-1/8 sleeves if a good block. Have used standard elevation fire crater M pistons with a 400 or 450 gas head. Don't remember any work needed now but I may have trimmed some spots and forgot. Anyone making fire crater pistons for those engines now unless new old stock is found? IH made more than one type for 4 and 4-18 bore engines. Don't know for sure what's out there now. Have put a 450 LP head on 450 standard elevation 4-1/8 fire craters without needing to make anything clear.
 
That counter bore ring is critical, and it's not fun. Cost wise comparison, by the time you try, its easy to use a lp head to make power, the costs are real close. I've done this procedure 20 times, and I recommend buying a 450 kit, have the block bored to fit the 450 sleeve. Truely, it's the best method for longevity. Jmho.
 
I would think by the time you get done paying for machine work you would be better off finding a C-264 and putting an overbore in it.
 
All you have to do is pull the sleeves, run a hone over the block and the pistons will fit right into the parent bore. You can get some rings made pretty cheap to fit into the counterbore at the top of the cylinder so you don't lose any compression there, or have the hot spots. Machine the rings to be a slight press fit into the block and be flush with the deck. I have done this myself and it works fine. If you don't have a lathe, you could probably get a machine shop that isn't too busy to make a set of rings for pretty cheap. The first set I had made (before I got my own lathe) cost me $40.
 
a long time ago (30+ years ago or so) a machine shop dropped and broke my 264 block from my 400 and got me a 248 block with dipstick and bored the block for 4-1/8 pistons. I don't know what it would have cost if I had to pay for it.
 
I have a 450 motor on the farm here. She's been seized up for about 7 years. That's where I got the head from. How hard is it to put the 450 motor into the M frame? Im pretty sure the starter is different? Not sure what else is different. But I have the motor on hand. How much do you think it would cost me to have the 450 motor gone through and resurfaced? I can do mechanical work myself but all the machining I would have to pay for.
 
Same outside size of blocks, starter doesn't bolt to engine and the M one will work, crankshafts will except flywheels from M through 450. Unless getting near the last of M tractors made the M liftall housings don't clear a late M or SM 12 inch clutch on a 12 inch or 450 flywheel. Unless any block surfaces or bores are not true or rust pitted the 450 block shouldn't need machining.
 

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