H - hydraulic pump seal....

banjoman09 · Jun 16, 2017

Some of you have helped me on my tractor restore job- much appreciated; and almost done. Can you tell me how to fix my last leak? The seal going into the hyd pump is leaking - I have the seal; one of you told me the "slotted" end "unscrews" like the shaft going into the transmission - but how do I hold this to break it loose?(the pump side) Thanks!

pete 23 · Jun 16, 2017

Depends on just how tight it is. Usually you can get that nut loose with a brass drift and hammer. Might take a lot of wacks but it does work. If threads are jammed you might have to take pump apart and put the gears in a soft jaw vise but that is rare. Regular right hand thread.

banjoman09 · Jun 16, 2017

thank you - I did try that with a chisel...but didn't want to get to ruff- Ill use brass. Also I wasn't sure which direction it went. Thanks!

Charlie M · Jun 16, 2017

You can stick a brass rod down the fill pipe and "jam the gears" so they cant turn. Then you can unscrew the coupler. I believe it unscrews opposite normal nuts on a bolt.

banjoman09 · Jun 16, 2017

That sounds like a good possibility...I had the bright idea just now to pull the "drain plug" and try to jam it with a long screw driver - no luck- could not feel anything. I think the last guy said "right hand" your saying "left hand" ? Help me ?

pete 23 · Jun 16, 2017

No gears are exposed through the filler pipe. You would have to go into the intake of the pump which is inside of the reservoir.

pete 23 · Jun 16, 2017

Definitely a right hand thread so left to loosen.

Charlie M · Jun 17, 2017

I'm pretty sure I saw that procedure in a manual somewhere. I've done it so something is there to stop the gears. If you can't stop them then there is no way to unscrew that coupling without taking apart the unit which you can't do without taking off the coupling.I wish I had the manual in reach.

banjoman09 · Jun 17, 2017

okay....thanks for your help ; I will try again this morning ; if for some reason it doesn't work I will leave the "coupler" out- I don't use the hyds anyway but I like to have things fixed and in working order. Thanks again guys

pete 23 · Jun 17, 2017

I have taken many many apart. Take my word for it.

D Slater · Jun 17, 2017

Pete is correct, only a rectangular or square like hole pointed to bottom of reservoir for oil suction to access pump gears without disassembly. Maybe one inch to a inch and a half opening at the largest point.
1/2 inch thick bar welded across a old 1-3/4 socket and a air impact works to remove most for me. Bar placed so socket stays on the OD of coupling. Maybe able to do a H without dropping unit with a short enough air wrench. Won't work on extremely tight ones. Picture is a M but H about the same. Square like casting below bellow gears is the suction opening.

rustyfarmall · Jun 17, 2017

I made an adapter that allows use of an impact wrench. Works on the transmission countershaft also. Gets the job done in about 2 seconds.

banjoman09 · Jun 17, 2017

yes Sir- I believe you! Thanks...haven't had any luck smacking it so Ill see if I can get impact in there...looks pretty tight. Ill let you know...If not ill leave shaft out of it and drain the oil. Thanks!

banjoman09 · Jun 17, 2017

thanks - ill check to see if I have one......tie rod end socket should work.

banjoman09 · Jun 17, 2017

I have a "short nose" 1/2 impact - there's no way it will fit up in that cavity even without a socket on the end; if you can do this in "2 seconds" you are a "tractor magician" !

pete 23 · Jun 17, 2017

The ones I have not been able to get off with a few (maybe a lot ) of good smacks, were ones where pieces went through the pump and either damaged or stripped the threads. Early model tractors used a lighter spring on the internal lever and it would break and get sucked up in to gears. Also, the wad in the breather of the filler cap would come out when someone didn't have the dip stick with washer on it and that would jam the gears. Of course, any little things floating around , like cotter keys mess them up also.

banjoman09 · Jun 17, 2017

but the "threads" are on the outside of the pump/case...not inside. Anyways , I see what I may have to do...may have to take off pump if I want to fix it. Thanks for everyones help.

cuby · Jun 18, 2017

I have done same as rustyfarmall,but removeing or drop the pump down is much eassier.

pete 23 · Jun 18, 2017

Yes, the threaded end the coupling goes on is right on the outside, but what I am getting at is if something gets into the gears on the other end of that threaded shaft, it will damage the threads on shaft or coupler, making them difficult to get off. It sounds like you still have the pump in the tractor and that makes it a little more difficult to get a good wack at that driving lug and would be difficult to get an impact tool in there to work on it also.

D Slater · Jun 18, 2017

Have always dropped the pumps for impact use, easier to put seal in and if the drive dog doesn't come off the unit needs to be out anyway. Only reason I mentioned that maybe you could do a H installed is with one of the special tight area air wrenches. But most and I don't have one.

banjoman09 · Jun 19, 2017

yes....I should just take pump off and repair and I will do this after harvest; just thought there might be an easier way....thanks to everyone and your help ......Banjoman

H - hydraulic pump seal....

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Similar threads