Super A engine assembly ?s (long)

Adrian Billheimer

Well-known Member
Ok, so I got all my parts, pressed the new cam gear onto the cam and reinstalled, have lots of end play, is that end play gap controlled by pressing the gear on further and measuring the gap at the retaining plate?, also had the woodruff key move while pressing, so had to pull it apart again anyhow.
Other major question now is...are there torque specs for the cam retaining plate bolts, I can not find any torque specs other than crank bearings, head bolts and valve gap in any of the books, I have most of them, or do I just use standard torque for bolt size specs?
Another item of interest is, before I loosened the pushrods, I measured the gap on #1 cylinder and found the intake at .014, but the exhaust was .008 cold! Both should be .014 warm/hot, correct, I think that is what I saw in the books. What would be a good cold adjustment to get the engine running to start with, .016-.018?
 
Gear is to be pressed on all the way as the shoulder on cam shaft where plate fits and thickness of plate control end play. You must have a key problem if gear will not readily press on to shoulder. As far as valve clearance setting, just set them at .014 and reset after running a bit. They will settle in and change, maybe some tighter , some looser.

One thing to watch carefully on the rocker arm is that the rockers are free with a little bit of side play. Very easy to bolt them down with spring pressure holding rocker tight to end and cause rocker to be stiff. Another thing, be DARN sure to loosen all rocker adjustment screws back out to prevent bent push rods, and or strain on rocker arm shaft. Common mistake to just bolt rocker arm shaft down with some rockers forcing valves open.
 
I had only pressed the cam gear on until it was flush with the end of the cam, what you said makes perfect sense to me, as for the rockers, I did not take them off the head, I had enough room to move them over to pull the pushrods out after loosening the adjusters.
Any opinion on torque specs?
 
I think .016 should be fine, valve gaps close up when seats and valves wear.

I do not know if those came with hardened seats.
 
As far as tightening those bolts l would just give them the old "elbow click" torque and go on. Now for the less experienced more timid folks I'm attaching a generic bolt torque chart. In case you don't know 3 marks on the head is grade 5 and 6 marks are grade 8. Use the chart at your own risk. Good luck!
Bolt torque chart
 

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