806 Roosa Master fuel pump questions

806gal · May 19, 2017

Hey y'all!

Our fuel pump has apparently stopped working. I understand it's direct drive off the crank shaft, but I'm nervous to take it off just yet because I'm afraid I'll screw up the timing.
It's not drawing fuel or pushing fuel. The tractor just cranks indefinitely.
I'd LIKE to take it off and clean it out, and see if there's an issue with the connection to the crank shaft, but the book I have has very little information about removal and reinstallation.
I guess my question is, how risky is it that I'll jack up the timing when I pull the pump? And do you know of these pumps getting clogged?
I have new filters coming, so I'm hoping a full clean out and fresh filters will get her back up and running.

ejr-IA. · May 19, 2017

On the side of the pump theirs a small plate with two screws you take off to see the timeing marks.You turn the engine over and when the two marks
show up together it is timed.

the tractor vet · May 19, 2017

To remove the pump on a 806 D The first thing is to get the tractor set for the correct timing . and that is 8 degrees BTDC , the marks are on the flywheel and you can remove the two 1/4 inch bolts on the right hand side of the bell housing and you will find a timing pointer under the cover . Replace the two bolts to hold the pointer inplace and turn the engine over in the direction of rotation till ya find the 8 Degree mark , Then remove the side window of the pump and see if both lines are lined up .If not turn the engine over one more turn and check again. Next comes the fun part remove the exhaust manifold and remove the lines going to the injectors but keep the retaining plates in place as you want to keep everything together since this will be your first time and you do not want to bend them. Next remove all the lines going to the injecton p[ump and the throttle linkage . Once ya have that done wire back the throttle lingage or arm on the pump back into the full fuel possession , this will keep the gov. weights inside the pump from falling apart . NOW there are two ways you can now remove the pump (1) you can remove the Pump by it's self and leave the pump adapter in place with the drive sticking out or (2) remover the drive adapter and pump as a unit . This will requirer removal of the ft. cover and removing the nut on the end of the shaft and the removal of the nuts holding the adaper to the ft timing cover plate , you will also need a puller to press the pump drive shaft out of the gear. If you go with door #1 then you do not have to . But door #2 this has to be done . The seals for this pump are in the adapter so they should be changed . when you separate the pump from the adapter if you look at the shaft that goes into the pump you willse a DOT on the end of the shaft and if you look down in the hole on the pump you will see a DOT in there . They must be DOT to DOT when going together. Now from what your saying my guess is that the shaft twisted because she seized the head to the rotor of the pumpand you are infor some money being spent on a total pump rebuild . the shaft is designed to twist off in the event of a head seizure . This can be caused by water entering the pump thru the fuel or as i have seen many times guys are out working there tractors hard and they see the temp getting way up there and they run to the milk house and grab the hose to wash out the radiators on a hot engine and pass cold water over the injection pump and it is all over but the shouting cussing a swearing and a phone call to the local tractor guru for help . Every spring and every fall i could count on at least one per season .

pete 23 · May 20, 2017

If you are truly worried that you have a drive problem, you will have to get someone to t urn the engine over at the flywheel while you watch through that timing hole on pump. Some times it can be hard to see if the governor weight retainer, which is what the timing line is on , is actually turning. If the mark comes around then you know drive is ok.

I remove pump a little different than the Vet. I remove the clamp holding the injection lines and then remove the six bolts attaching lines to pump. Other wise follow his advice. It can be tricky getting the lines back on the rear side of pump though.

Dillsburg 560D · May 20, 2017

The return fitting could have come apart and plugged the return fuel line also.

Dillsburg 560D · May 20, 2017

(quoted from post at 20:22:16 05/20/17) The return fitting could have come apart and plugged the return fuel line also.

Not the fitting coming apart it would be the weight retainer that does the plugging.

806gal · May 21, 2017

(quoted from post at 17:08:39 05/19/17)
To remove the pump on a 806 D The first thing is to get the tractor set for the correct timing . and that is 8 degrees BTDC , the marks are on the flywheel and you can remove the two 1/4 inch bolts on the right hand side of the bell housing and you will find a timing pointer under the cover . Replace the two bolts to hold the pointer inplace and turn the engine over in the direction of rotation till ya find the 8 Degree mark , Then remove the side window of the pump and see if both lines are lined up .If not turn the engine over one more turn and check again. Next comes the fun part remove the exhaust manifold and remove the lines going to the injectors but keep the retaining plates in place as you want to keep everything together since this will be your first time and you do not want to bend them. Next remove all the lines going to the injecton p[ump and the throttle linkage . Once ya have that done wire back the throttle lingage or arm on the pump back into the full fuel possession , this will keep the gov. weights inside the pump from falling apart . NOW there are two ways you can now remove the pump (1) you can remove the Pump by it's self and leave the pump adapter in place with the drive sticking out or (2) remover the drive adapter and pump as a unit . This will requirer removal of the ft. cover and removing the nut on the end of the shaft and the removal of the nuts holding the adaper to the ft timing cover plate , you will also need a puller to press the pump drive shaft out of the gear. If you go with door #1 then you do not have to . But door #2 this has to be done . The seals for this pump are in the adapter so they should be changed . when you separate the pump from the adapter if you look at the shaft that goes into the pump you willse a DOT on the end of the shaft and if you look down in the hole on the pump you will see a DOT in there . They must be DOT to DOT when going together. Now from what your saying my guess is that the shaft twisted because she seized the head to the rotor of the pumpand you are infor some money being spent on a total pump rebuild . the shaft is designed to twist off in the event of a head seizure . This can be caused by water entering the pump thru the fuel or as i have seen many times guys are out working there tractors hard and they see the temp getting way up there and they run to the milk house and grab the hose to wash out the radiators on a hot engine and pass cold water over the injection pump and it is all over but the shouting cussing a swearing and a phone call to the local tractor guru for help . Every spring and every fall i could count on at least one per season .

Do you mean to turn it over with the hand crank?
A previous owner installed a starter... how do I turn it without the hand crank?

the tractor vet · May 21, 2017

That is why i told him to remove the maifold and the lines in one chunk so he did not bend them and have even more problems . when i am doing one i normally remove the manifold and sneak them out gently . and we all have had a back side line that has caused us to consume adult beverages .

the tractor vet · May 21, 2017

Using a pry bar thru the timing hole in the bell housing . Just make sure that you remove the plate with the pointer so you do not bend it out of shape. I know you want to learn how to do stuff , BUT for this i really think ya need to get help from someone with experience even if ya have to pay him as i believe you will be money ahead in the long run.

pete 23 · May 21, 2017

I am beginning to wonder if we are even talking about an IH Farmall 806 diesel here. When poster said starter was ADDED and asked about HAND crank, making me wonder what he has for sure.

806gal · May 22, 2017

(quoted from post at 11:55:00 05/21/17) I am beginning to wonder if we are even talking about an IH Farmall 806 diesel here. When poster said starter was ADDED and asked about HAND crank, making me wonder what he has for sure.

You know, I believe I just confused myself the other day. I have the IH 806 diesel, but I also have an Allis Chalmers crawler.. that's the one the starter was added to.
I apologize for my mistake.

And I do have my husband to help me, he would probably know how to crank the engine without having to ask. I just try to get a little knowledge beforehand so he isn't ALWAYS right about everything ;-) lol

806 Roosa Master fuel pump questions

806gal

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ejr-IA.

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the tractor vet

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pete 23

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Dillsburg 560D

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Dillsburg 560D

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806gal

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the tractor vet

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the tractor vet

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pete 23

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806gal

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