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H Carb Float level.....

B

banjoman09

Well-known Member
I pulled the bottom half of carb off....left the top on tractor....easy deal... gas was about 3/8 from top so with float in gas might be close to top...too full. I've work on many carbs in my life but am not seeing a good way to adjust float. (Brass float also- no gas in it). There is a tab on the back of float but not seeing how that can change it....ideas?
 

Carefully bend the tab of the float, measure from the absolute bottom of the float to the top carb flange with the float in the fully up position.

I don't have my manual with me here at work or have that number memorized but I can get it for you when I get home.
 
Illustration shows bend where bracket attaches to float....right? Your second reply says "bend the tab" ? Thanks I will go look at it.
 

Yes I was referring to the tab as the mounting piece sticking off of the round float as the tab , but then realized you may think I meant just that small tab on the rear of the mounting tab. That tab prevents the float from dropping down to far, possibly allowing the needle to fall out of the seat when the bottom half is removed.
 

To set the float height, bend the arm. That little tab is to control float drop. There is a spec on that also. Basically it is to prevent the float from bouncing around on the bottom of the fuel bowl.

Also, setting the float height will be next to impossible unless you remove the rest of the carb from the tractor.
 
why is that? Even with the top half on the tractor I can put the float back on and measure the height? I did bend the float bracket "up" about 1/16 of an inch - still leaks out of disc after it sets for 30 mins....... not from using choke. I really don't see how it can be set too high now... tempted to take it off and put epoxy in the hole from the inside.
 

I wouldn't epoxy the hole. If there is fuel leaking out the disc in the bottom of the carb it means that the bowl is overfilling. Something is preventing the needle valve from sealing. It could be due to dirt and gunk on the seat or a bad needle valve, if you are certain that the float isn't leaking.
 
Ok....not a good idea....I found my instruction sheet to my carb rebuild kit: says float level should be 1 27/32....with float in "up" position. Mine measures 1 12/32......that's a lot! Don't know how that could be....means I would have to "lower" the float a ways......(that is from bottom of top flange to bottom of float - in up position.)
 

Yes, the 1 27/32" is what I had in mine for the measurement, but wasn't certain enough to post that.

That measurement is taken from the very bottom of the float to the flange of the carb.
Go in small amounts at a time and check it. You can break the tab off by bending it back and forth too many times.
 
will do.....will just bend one way....according to this it must go about 15/32.....that's a 1/2 inch !
 
(quoted from post at 09:38:03 04/24/17) why is that? Even with the top half on the tractor I can put the float back on and measure the height? I did bend the float bracket "up" about 1/16 of an inch - still leaks out of disc after it sets for 30 mins....... not from using choke. I really don't see how it can be set too high now... tempted to take it off and put epoxy in the hole from the inside.
Click to expand...

Float height is calculated with the float RESTING on the needle valve. Holding the float up with your fingers DISTORTS the float arm and also COMPRESSES the viton tipped needle valve, resulting in a FALSE reading.
 
ok...I understand....im not pushing on it....just contact. Guess I could pull the whole dang thin off again; and your saying turn it upside down to check it. I did just set it at 1 25/32.....shut it off and let it sit after running - in 5 mins it was dripping again. Dang it!
 
Adjust it a little further and if it still sticks I would be concerned that the needle valve isn't seatin. It could either be crud on the seat preventing it from seating or the float is sticking.

You can also check around the main jet adjustment screw. I have seen the packing wear and allow fuel to leak around the screw which can look like it is coming from the weep hole. Sometimes you can tighten it a little more, but others times it's already been tightened and is bottomed out.
 
New needle-seat; also cleaned it..its fine..... I did take air inlet hose off and looked up inside and appeared to be coming from that brass needle back inside- or jet? put new gasket on it- didn't help.
Think ill go mow my lawn :)
 
(quoted from post at 11:56:28 04/24/17) ok...I understand....im not pushing on it....just contact. Guess I could pull the whole dang thin off again; and your saying turn it upside down to check it. I did just set it at 1 25/32.....shut it off and let it sit after running - in 5 mins it was dripping again. Dang it!
Click to expand...

But in order for it to make contact, you ARE pushing on it.

Carburetors may appear to be simple, but if you take the time to study, and learn the principles behind how it all functions, you will discover that carburetors are quite complex.
 
WHen I turn the gas "off"...the gas stops running out the carb; so the gas that's in the bowl is NOT running out....but when the gas is on it starts seeping out that round button; so it coming from the inside...somewhere.
 
well, I found that right out of the box my H float was set correctly, and I never did try to bend the tab. Works perfectly.
 
when adjusting float the carb has to be upside down to get the float measurement with the float resting on the needle. then you measure from the gasket surface to the top of float, and bend float arms accordingly. and then do the float drop measurement. bend tang to get proper drop.
 
(quoted from post at 16:39:38 04/24/17) WHen I turn the gas "off"...the gas stops running out the carb; so the gas that's in the bowl is NOT running out....but when the gas is on it starts seeping out that round button; so it coming from the inside...somewhere.
Click to expand...

How long does it take to stop dripping AFTER you shut the gas off? If no fresh gas is coming in, and the excess gas in the bowl is allowed to escape, the drips WILL stop, but the mal-function is still there.
 
Yes , I know this...im trying to fix the "malfunction". It stops within in minutes...telling me the gas from the tank is making it overflow in the bowl...but the float setting is correct.
 
I've had brand new viton tipped needle valves that would just not seal, I swapped the old brass needle valve back in and the problem went away. I am not saying this is your problem, but I have experienced this before myself.
 
If it is any consolation to anyone, I was cussing those needle and seats when I worked at the CaseIH dealer, and I left there in 1995. On the viton tip, we were having trouble with the new 4 & 560's leaking from the get go with the steel needle. That is when IH switched the valve assembly to viton and they actually worked very good for several years. Then quality went in the tank and nothing but trouble ever since. Oh, you do get a good one now and then. I haven't put any new ones in now for a couple years as I pretty well quit running around working on tractors. Can't even get my own work down now days.

P S. Lot of house work to do now also with wife not doing well.
 

In the past, I have rebuilt many, many, H and M carburetors using those viton tipped valves. I learned quickly that the needle and the seat both need to be thoroughly cleaned with aerosol carb cleaner and allowed to dry. The needle will stick in the seat if not cleaned. Never had an issue of any kind after learning that little trick, and I had many, many happy customers.
 
that's an interesting fact- I wish I still had my old one....I would change it out and see what happens. Regards to your wife. Thanks.
 
Yes i'm thinking this may be the problem; I have a hard time questioning "new parts" sometimes that is my trouble on fixing things. I'm sure I threw it away..I will check to see if I can get one. Thanks a lot!
 
I have had them stick from the crap they put on them, but never had one leak because of it. I usually do the mouth suction test on just the needle and seal , uninstalled in carburetor before I put them in. Some take a little doctoring to pass the test. Have to be careful though, don't want to swallow a needle and seat.

Of course, have had gaskets leak on seat and also on the nozzle which can be mistaken for leaking needle.
 
(quoted from post at 21:09:10 04/25/17) I have had them stick from the crap they put on them, but never had one leak because of it. I usually do the mouth suction test on just the needle and seal , uninstalled in carburetor before I put them in. Some take a little doctoring to pass the test. Have to be careful though, don't want to swallow a needle and seat.

Of course, have had gaskets leak on seat and also on the nozzle which can be mistaken for leaking needle.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is the crap on them that causes sticking. Don't know if it is something they put on, or just residue left over from the manufacturing process, but either way, it needs to be cleaned off.
 
I think I'm done...still leaks. Need to move on. I cleaned needle and seat- set float level(not drop) at 1- 27/32.... still leaks after turn on gas....about 45 seconds after gas is on. When I removed bowl the gas level was about 3/4 inch from top of bowl...so it can't be going over top. I can ship when I get time if someone wants to "brave" fixing for me. I will check this post a few more times today for comments and then im done with this. Thanks for all your help and advice! :)
 
I can turn on gas and look up into throat with flash light....see it getting wet but cannot tell where it is coming from. Nozzle gasket is new and tight. Thanks.
 
(quoted from post at 09:00:30 04/26/17) I can turn on gas and look up into throat with flash light....see it getting wet but cannot tell where it is coming from. Nozzle gasket is new and tight. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Carburetor is cracked somewhere inside. Time to find another carb.
 
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