carburetor adjustment, SMTA

I know this topic has been beat to death--but one more time please. I removed the bottom half of the carburetor and cleaned it out with lacquer thinner. Reinstalled and I am having trouble getting it adjusted. I am following the instructions on this sheet, but when I start to back the main adjusting screw out the tractor dies. It pulls my bog harrow OK now so maybe I should not be concerned? It has excellent gas flow. ( Oh, the reason for the disassembly was because of this problem, it started sputtering.) Thanks, Ellis

Low speed idle adjustment "top screw" is 1 1/2 turns out.

High speed idle "load adjustment screw" is 3 turns out.

These are the factory INITIAL settings. The tractor will start and run at these settings. Some fine tuning adjustments will probably be required.

Notice that I stated "initial" adjustments. Someone will come along and claim that bottom screw HAS to be set at 5 turns out. NO, it does not. Set it at 3, and then adjust it either in or out as needed.

That's also at stock bore on a stock carb. All my Farmalls with overbore kits in them can have the load screw all the way out and not smoke at all.

(quoted from post at 12:04:15 04/18/17)
That's also at stock bore on a stock carb. All my Farmalls with overbore kits in them can have the load screw all the way out and not smoke at all.

Click to expand...

The M&W kit was furnished with a larger main metering jet and maybe a different venturi. This was to accomodate the increased displacement of the engine. Initial carb adjustments were the same as stock.

The way i do them is first i make sure EVERYTHING is as it should be starting with valve adjustment tune up and check the dist. of a working advance . Then get it running and get the timing close as i will finish that once i have the carb set . I let it warm up and also check to make sure the governor is synchronized to the carb . and i start off with the main jet four turns off the seat then we move up to the ideal bleed and fine tun that as i back off engine RPM to the lowest i can get it to run at . once i have that i set curb ideal then go back and set the dist for max timing at full throttle then i set the main at five turns off the seat . Now since you only removed the BOTTOM you did nothing fot the ports up in the top half and lacquer thinner is not a good carb cleaner and neither is the stuff in the spray can . To clean a carb correctly it need taken apart and soaked in a good chemical carb cleaner and sometimes they have to set a day to get them clean then you need to have the means of getting into all them small holes and dig around to get rust and other junk out of them and plow them out with compressed air after a good hot soapy water bath after the chem bath then a rinse and compressed air . all these little things i know come from years of fixen .