Need some advice... Farmall 300

Well, I've got some issues with my Farmall 300. I know what they are, but I don't know really what the best way to handle them is. So here they are:

1. Pushrod cover leaks - Replace gasket, I know. Can I just remove the dist. and hyd. pump as one unit? And where the heck do you get the gasket by itself? Is there a gasket behind the hyd. pump?

2. Rear main leak has got worse - I know, split it. No other option. But while I'm there... is there anything else to replace so I won't have to split it again?

3. PTO to rear axle joint leaks, how the heck do ya fix that? I have looked and looked for a gasket and no luck. Just use some RTV?

4. Finally, the steering post needs a rebuild, but some of the parts are non-existent it seems. IH still carries some, but good night they're high. Are there any good aftermarket places? YT doesn't carry hardly anything as far as steering parts are concerned.

5. There's a hydraulic leak under the dash somewhere. I've had the dash off and cannot pinpoint it. Looks like maybe the bottom of the control valve? Do those have a gasket? But then again it looks like its spitting it out the breather pipe. Over full? Some nimrod broke the dipstick off the fill plug so its kinda a guess how much proposition right now. And good luck finding another fill plug with a dipstick on it. If anyone has one they'd part with I'd gladly buy it.

I understand that most of this stuff is pretty straight forward, but my question(s) is mainly what is the best way to fix these issues without A) Breaking the bank and B) Having to go back in 6 or 8 months and re-fix them. If I didn't absolutely love this tractor I'd sell it and try to find something better. But my gosh does the old girl run good, no blowby and everything else functions great.

Thanks in advance guys.
Mac

I can't help with most of your questions but one thing that happened to me on my 300 is I thought I had a small hydraulic leak somewhere around the valves, but I later found out that the oil I was seeing by the shifter was coming out of where the oil pressure line screwed onto the gauge, because when I replaced the gauge it went away.
Zach

I will comment on the rear main leak. You'll have to remove the oil pan so all new seals and gaskets. While in there check out the clutch, surface of flywheel, bearings, etc. No better time than to get everything done since the tractor is split. Concerning engine gaskets, you can by a full set of gaskets for everything on the engine, including rear seal. I think they call it an over haul gasket package. Might have them on this site.

I've had good luck with used parts for my 400 off of Ebay and also the Bates Corporation in Indiana.

I would have the hyd plug dipstick you can give me a call 734-915-2543 matt

Found the PTO housing seal for you on partstore.caseih.com. It's a large o-ring, part number 384398R1, and costs $14.00.

Well I too have 300 Farmall and have fixed a few of the items you mentioned. only problem is it's been about 8 or nine years and my memory is a little fuzzy. Cover behind hyd.pump gasket came from ih and I took pump.and dist. off together. Do yourself a favor and take a cheap wrench and cut it to get at the bottom bolt for the pump that's next to the block. It will be much easier. Never messed with the steering. Has a fresh in frame overhaul which I did. Had it split once in three pieces. By the time I was done I had replace a gear in the trans, seals in the trans, rebuilt the ta, and went through the main clutch and the ta clutch. Did all of the work myself except the ta. Had an old retired ih mechanic help me. Most all the gaskets I have needed over the years I have either bought from ih or made my own. Mine is nothing to.look at as she is in her work clothes, but I know everything else is good. I love mine too and would never be without it !

Well, I think I've figured out what I'm gonna do. I've got a line on some parts (thanks Matt) and feelers out for others. I think I'll work on the pushrod leak first, and then do the split and put a new clutch etc in while I'm at it.

I may have the PTO leak stopped, the 4 bolts were a little loose, so I tightened them up and I'll check again tomorrow.

The hydraulic reservoir was overfull which I drained off a little, and hopefully that stopped that.

Anyway, I appreciate the advice and help. Hopefully in the next few months I'll have her tip top and cleaned up.

Thanks again. Mac

It's close but the side cover can be removed and installed without removing the hydraulic pump. Unbolt the distributor at rear of pump. Turn engine so the distributor rotors pointing straight up or however you want to point it. remove distributor from rear of pump and don't let the distributor drive shaft drop out. Don't turn engine and put the distributor back on with T shaft in the slot and the distributor should be in the same time it was. Even if the T shaft gets out of mesh just put it back so the rotor is pointing where you started and the drive slot also lines up. About as well off to get a complete gasket set for those engines over getting several single gaskets. Look on line for victor reinz FS-3104 or fel-pro FS 7766 S. Should be able to find a set for 60 or less. Have been getting them for around 50 and a little less sometimes without the front crankshaft seal. Lots of places the hydraulics can leak, but like Zackory H. said make sure the little oil pressure line is not leaking. Common for that to happen. Not sure if the steering you refer to is the bolster or the support at steering wheel.

It's the bolster I mean. It basically needs rebuilt. The death wobble is pretty bad. Ill give the gasket set a whirl, thanks a lot.

What do you mean by the t shaft? Never had a distributor out of a Farmall. If you happen to accidentally have a picture I'd be in your debt.

Mac

For used and some new parts try JP tractor salvage they are in Fredricktown MO. 573-783-7055. Are closer to you than Bates are in northern IN.

Just jumping in,my 2 cents worth.I have dealt with and been to JP tractor several times.They are good people to deal with.

Look on YT parts for a 350 then go to electrical. see distributor drive housing. Right below is the tee shaped distributor drive gear. It goes in the center of housing toward hydraulic pump and fits in a slot in pump shaft. Shaft meshes with another gear on distributor shaft so distributor turns half the speed of the crankshaft. Don't know why the t shaped shaft and gear isn't shown under 300 parts but they use the same one.