Brought Home an F20

Ken Christopherson

Well-known Member
Hello all!

Well, if you remember my post earlier in the week, I was looking at bringing home an F20. Well, I took the plunge (but not on the one I was looking at)... But one that I figured was in a little better internal shape. The motor was free on this one, and was advertised on Craigslist near me for $400 (I talked him down much lower than that). The rear wheels were cutoff steel on 38" rims (in much better shape than the round spokes on the '38 I was looking at), and the front have one cutoff steel, and one F&H adjustable I believe. It is kind of a frankenstein tractor as the frame is stamped as FA16675 which makes it a 1935.. The motor and tag on the toolbox have FA123374 stamped in them which means at some point the motor was changed out with one out of a 1938. Looking the tractor over, it is in pretty good shape. Internally, it looks real clean, and the impulse on the mag still has a strong 'click' when hand cranking. It has a PTO extension, as well as the Comfort Ride seat. The gentleman originally bought it to restore, put on a new manifold and rebuilt the carburetor but lost interest as he got further into retirement and started traveling. He has no idea when the last time it was ran, but did give me a full decal set with it, as well as a Jensales service manual to get me started. I ended up giving $250 for the tractor as it sits. Now that I have that said...

Here is the bad:
Missing radiator cap
Missing right brake drum
Missing belt pulley
Missing original air cleaner (has one off of an A/B/C Farmall).
Block appears to be cracked behind the carb (unless it is a casting flaw).
Magneto linkages are homemade

I know what you are thinking - I should have gone with that 1938 that is down south of me.. It is fully complete but has the motor stuck and the left rear wheel is in bad shape. So here are my thoughts - Maybe I will pick that one up as well and try to make one good tractor out of the two. I can grab that one up for $240, so to have (2) F20's to make one for just shy of $500 may not be such a bad idea... I hope you enjoy the photos. Video to come.
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Any F-20 at a price that low is worth it! I noticed the tire was backwards on the left rear. I've restored 2 F-20's for FFA and the second one was built using all the parts and extras left over from the first one! Don't hesitate to get another one for parts or a potential future project. I had to replace a cracked block too. I tried using nickel rod to weld it but it cracked on the cool down. I wouldn't be afraid of using JB weld if I ever did it again. I hope you enjoy working on it. F-20's are about as simple as they get.
 
I used JB Weld on the side of the block on my '41 Case SC to keep numbers matching (it is a center exhaust tractor, so is quite rare).. As well as on the inside around the backside of #4 cylinder where it was eaten away due to corrosion. So far it is holding like a champ and it has been about 8 years (photo is of the inside of the Case SC block)!

I have considered getting the second one anyhow - if I don't get it, it will go to the melting pot (I have already been told).
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There is an F20 on an auction, in Kensett, Iowa, this Saturday. That's just south of the Minnesota border, and not far off I-35. Says it has a stuck motor. You can Google Dan Low Auction Service, to see a picture. Could be a good parts tractor for you.
 
I've got one lined up about 120 miles from me already - lot's of goodies on it, but one rear wheel is pretty bad. Year is 1938, and I can get it for $240. Motor is stuck, but it is a good solid tractor that is 99% there.
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I agree that either would be a good "Parts" tractor. It is not difficult for an experienced Cast Iron Welder to weld the block. Ask around to find one.
Also, PB Blaster is available by the gallon!
 
I thought either welding or the lock n stitch method - seems pretty easy to do lock n stitch, but just time consuming on a crack of this length. I'd be willing to bet it is 8" or more in length.
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Best thing to do is buy the outher tractor. you wont be sorry. I just finshed up doing my granddads f20 and it is going to my grandson. ive got a parts f20 with all the pars you need. Bob from nw ia
 
I would buy em both for less than 500, that stuck tractor may not be that bad. Some years ago i had an f-20 given to me that was stuck so i used it for parts many years, except the engine. When i finally decided to pull the head off it was frame rails, engine and rearend. Lo and behold, it was nice in there and came unstuck easily, ended up piecing it back together and made a nice tractor, sold it on steel wheels.
 
Mike,

I'll be going to pick up the other '38 F20 a week from Sunday. That one also has a PTO extension, and I won't be using either one so you can take you pick if you'd like.

My e-mail is always open.
 
I'll have to look into it. Last time I checked into cast iron welding, I had quotes that were around $150/inch. That was about 15 years ago.
 
At that cheap I would buy both. On things that old it's good to have the parts.

I would put water in and see if it leaked before getting too excited about a possible crack. IIRC they don't run pressurised anyway and if there is a crack it may have rusted itself shut. If you have to tear it all down then you have a better opportunity for welding it.
 
I will probably do that - I am set up to go get the other F20 on 4/28 or 4/29. Should be good to use as a parts tractor (or at least one of them should be).. Maybe if I get real ambitious I will set up one on rubber, and one on steel! :-D
 
I may just do that. When I opened up my 1942 JD A, it looked similar to the 1938 F20 that I first looked at.. A couple hours and I had it popped loose. We will see what happens with both of them (I do intend on going to get the other one).
 

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