To turn off the gas or not. that is the question!

When I'm done working with my 450 gas, should i turn off the gas and let the carb run dry, or kill it then turn off the gas? This may cause some debate but I'd like to hear your opinions. I plan on using sta-bil fuel additive.
 
I run Allis dry every time I leave her sitting with very good results.
Left one sitting with gas in it a while back and regretted it. Major crud/rust in the carb float bowl.
 
I shut my old Farmall's off then shut the gas off. Really doesn't matter what the order is used as long as
the gas is shut off when you shut the lights off and close the door.

I use straight non-ethanol gas from Kwik-Trip in all my old tractors and small engines from my leaf blower
to my 27 HP zero turn mower. No Sta-Bil, no Sea Foam, no ATF or 2-stroke oil, well, I will dump old stale
2-stroke gas/oil mix into the M occasionally. I've had the non-ethanol gas sit for over a year and the
tractors start right up and run right.
 
Month or less, shut the tractor off and shut off the fuel at the tank every time. More than a month shut off the tank let it run
out of fuel in the carb and shut off the ignition. Jim
 
Month or less, shut the tractor off and shut off the fuel at the tank every time. More than a month shut off the tank let it run out of fuel in the carb and shut off the ignition. Jim
 
Yes I agree ; left gas in my "H" for 6 months without running- now overhauling carb. Order shouldnt matter as long as all is
shut off when the door closes. However, I like the comment on letting the carb run out of gas if not using for a spell. Thanks.
 
Learned along time ago TURN OFF GAS. After loosing 5 gallons from a tractor that never showed ANY sign of leaking before. Man was I mad. So they all get shut off when shut the tractor down...... Kenny
 
Always a good idea to shut off the fuel regardless.

Whether running the carb dry is of any benefit is debatable. I've personally never done it and never had a problem. Taken many carburetors apart and not a speck of crud, gunk, or gum anywhere inside.

I really think there is a huge difference in the quality of fuel you get from place to place. Where I am we get good fuel that's good for a year or more. Then some guys will have fuel that turns to varnish in a month.
 
I never turn off the gas on mine unless the carb leaks which means I fix it. I have sometimes turned it off because of a leak and never remember to turn it back on and half the time didn't remember to turn it off. If the system is right it won't leak with the gas on and I don't have to remember to turn it off or on.
 
(quoted from post at 08:47:41 03/29/17) When I'm done working with my 450 gas, should i turn off the gas and let the carb run dry, or kill it then turn off the gas? This may cause some debate but I'd like to hear your opinions. I plan on using sta-bil fuel additive.

Needle valves and seats are good enough today that you really don't need to worry losing a tank of gas through the carburetor while the tractor is parked, but if you do not want any issues with the carburetor, sticking needle valves, etc, it is best to shut off the gas at the sediment bowl and wait for the engine to die. Don't forget to shut off the ignition after the engine dies.

I have 2 Hs that never get the gas shut off, and never give any trouble. I also have an M that will stick the needle valve in less than a week if I don't run the carburetor dry.
 
Count me in the shut off the gas camp. I never can forecast when I will next use an engine, so I just do it every single time. Once in the habit, it is easier for my old brain to keep straight, and thus far I haven't seen a downside.
I have a large number of engines down in a creek bottom, where it often gets really humid, and find if I allow the engine to run after the fuel is shut off to the point where I have to choke it to keep it running, then I never have any problems. I even go so far as to add fuel shut offs to the engines that didn't already have them, and have never regretted it.

I got started on this when I was out in west Texas, puttering around with among other things standby generators. Allow an engine with a gravity tank to sit, and the fuel in the carburetor would evaporate, allowing the needle to open and refill the carburetor. When it is really hot outside the gas in both the Carburetor and the tank are evaporating fairly quickly, and in both becomes more and more concentrated with varnish. Do this long enough and you end up with an icky mess.
 
When a needle valve sticks, it will drain all of your gas into the crank case,your oil will need to be changed, and you will need a tank of gas. Just shut it off and save yourself the aggravation.
 
Since the beginning of time if you didn't shut the gas off after stopping either our M or 240 they would be almost impossible to start next time. I also owned a 450 gas for a short time and it was the same way.
 
I buy my gas in a five gallon can each time I have an activity.
This will give me around five hours of tractor work depending on what I am doing.
Most of the time I have about two to three gallons remaining after I am done.
The tractor then sits for four weeks or more. I turn the valve off each time.
I made a tube fitting to screw into the bottom plug on the carburetor to drain the gas and use it for my lawn mower.
This way I always have fresh gas for the M.
 
Been running old Farmalls ever since I was big enough to reach the pedals, though I had to slide forward on the seat sometime of our old H. We always shut the gas off after shutting tractor off, and never left a carburetor dry. In my opinion, the gaskets and fiber rings around all the jets deteriorate worse when allowed to dry out. Also, with a distributor it is real easy to forget to shut ignition off after engine dies from lack of fuel. Then you frequently have a dead battery and or burned points. As I get older I am getting bad to forget to turn the gas off occasionally, but coming back to a tractor with 7 or 8 gallons of gas soaked into a gravel floor from a spec of dirt in float valve will remind you. LOL
 
I shut mine off on my 450 and run it dry every time. I do the same on my AC WD45 and never have trouble starting them when turning fuel
back on. I have used Sta-bil and after setting all winter the gas smelled old. I now use a stabilizer from Briggs& Stratton like it better
gas doesn't get that old smell from setting. I run fuel stabilizer all year round.
 
My H sits for months without a run, I'm overseas, dad's
interstate most of the time.

His always told me to starve it of fuel before putting it into
hibernation,
After months of sitting, 2 or 3 hand cranks and she's wide awake.
 
"Needle valves and seats are good enough these days"???

I don't know where you get your needle valves and seats from but I've had nothing but problems with needle valves and seats in the last 10 years.

I've got two Cubs and a Super A that have a slow drip if I leave the gas on. I've been into each carburetor at least four times, checking the float height, cleaning the needle valves and seats with all sorts of harsh chemicals, and they STILL leak!!!

My Super H's needle valve stuck closed for the longest time. You'd have to beat on the carburetor with a draw pin when you first started the tractor.
 
Both my H's, expecially my 44, will leak gas out the carb if I don't shut off the gas. The SM probably will leak as well but I haven't left the gas on yet to find out.
The C will not leak any gas if I leave it on, but I still shut it off.
 
Don't all Farmalls have updraft carburetors with a weep hole in the bottom? I don't see how the gas can get into the crankcase. But I do believe in shutting it off at the tank.
 
(quoted from post at 06:59:49 03/30/17) Don't all Farmalls have updraft carburetors with a weep hole in the bottom? I don't see how the gas can get into the crankcase. But I do believe in shutting it off at the tank.

The weep hole is to allow condensation to get out. Weep hole is not open to the fuel bowl. When too much gas gets to the carburetor, it easily exits through the governor tube, and from there directly into the crankcase.
 
Weep hole is not open to the fuel bowl, but neither is the governor connection. It is at the top of the carburetor connected to the throttle plate, which is in the air flow. By the time fuel reaches it, the fuel should be running out the weep hole, so long as the hole is not plugged. If there was enough fuel in the carb and throat to reach that high there sure would not be any danger of the engine starting.
 

Thanks all for the many responses. I plan on turning off the fuel, just a habit i landed looking ago.

What about running the carb dry, can someone explain the why/ why not of that? We ran our JD dry, but it was multi fuel and was getting diesel or of carb.
Thanks
 
When the remaining fuel is evaporated in the carb, it can leave deposits. Though not zero, running it till it quits does remove
substantial residual fuel. It also opens the needle and seat as the float drops. This allows a fast flow of fuel into the bowl
when the valve is opened, flushing any particles out that could cause the needle to not seat. Jim
 
If your going to store it for a long period of time you can take plug out of bottom of carb and let it drain dry.
 
Thanks Jim and D, I'll start letting it run dry. As far as the plug, it was frozen in there, not sure if Mark got it loose when he rebuilt the carb. I'll check.
 

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