grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Son's 1950 cub. This wire is just
stuck there. When I removed it amp
meter goes to zero. Put it on
shows a charge of about 10. It
goes to top of generator. What
should it go to? Will it over
charge battery? Needle never moves
off 10 thanks
a154721.jpg
 
someone has ran that to the field terminal of the gen to make it charge. Your cut-out on top of the gen needs the points cleaned and adjust the third brurh for proper charge rate it doesent hurt the gen to charge that way but the rate can be changed by movint the third brush. Mite be time to get he gen serviced
 
If it charges with that wire in place the generator and cutout are ok. Your tractor would have originally had a 4 position light switch marked L H D B.

That wire went to the light switch, and the L position (low charge) connected it ground through a resister for a charge rate of approximately 2 amps. In the H position (High charge) it applied a direct ground and went to 10 amps as it does when grounded. The D and B were Dim lights and Bright lights and also sets it at full charge. Running it at full charge as it does now for long periods, such as mowing or plowing all day will not hurt the engine or generator, but will boil the battery dry.

You can get a regulator to replace the existing cut out, and connect that wire to the F lead of the regulator if you wish.
 
Wow. Ok. Thanks y'all if switch ain't working right where can we buy one ? I also texted the guy we bought it from he said switch wasn't right. It works the lights dim and bright. I guess I will try to hook that wire up where it goes and see what we got.
 
To add more, the light switch is dependent on the operator to choose between full charge rate "H" (10 amps the way yours is set) and a reduced rate "L" these are the first two switch positions. When the lights are on D or B on the decal next to the switch, the lights are on. The switch must be well grounded for the generator control to work. The switch to metal, and the metal to tractor ground path must be good. The gen control is in the switch but not connected to the light circuit. Jim
 
When I rebuilt my '48 Cub over 20 years ago, I removed all the light which wiring as I did not want to fool around with any bad connections and that light dimming resistor problem. At the same time I replaced all the wiring on tractor including soldering all crimped on connectors.. Since this was a original 6 volt system, the electrical circuit needs to be properly grounded.
In the fall of 2015 I discovered another similar problem and that was in the area of armature , more specifically, that all the insulation between each of copper bars on the were worn flat! this meant that the generator would not charge. In order rectify that problem, I had to dig(scrape out) with a ground down hack saw blade to deepen each of insulation. Because I am very fugal, I would not buy another generator. Why spend the money for a new generator or armature? Getting things back together the generator now runs the the way it should.
 

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