TD9 Track and intake manifold question

matt1979

New User
Hello everyone, I apologize in advance if this post is in the wrong spot, still learning. I have two td9's one with the track master pin that has backed out about an inch and the rock guard did a number on it. I got the pin back in and got it parked but it is chewed up pretty bad. Question is are these pins available and if not is putting a small weld on the face of the pin to the track chain even worth trying? Second is I believe the flapper valves are not fully closing in the intake manifold, plan is to remove and clean the manifold, when I pull the compression release it does not fully close the valves and I reach in the back side of manifold and push up on the v shaped part of lineage to close, that has been working for awhile but not last weekend, carb is clean, fresh gas, good spark, if I hold my hand over air intake hole it will try to start but I believe there is not enough fuel being pulled up through the carb. Any advice on either would be appreciated, both machines are early 40's if that helos
 
The manifold issue sounds like your linkages are out of adjustment.
Get yourself an IH8 service manual and it will give you all the specs
for adjusting the swap over linkages
 
If the switchover worked previously, it is unlikely it got out of adjustment if no one messed with it. Take the carb and manifold off, the easiest way is to just take the four manifold flange nuts off and unhook the carb shutoff linkage, fuel line, and the mag grounding wire and it should come right off. The butterflies should snap over center from full open to full closed easily, if not it may be gummy or rusty. Once you have them working free then you can set the manifold back on easily, the V of the switchover linkage on the manifold sets right over the rod on the linkage protruding from the block. Email is open.
 
Congradulations! You have identified a problem few figure out. Most people think the carb is stuck and so most carbs have dozens
of hammer marks on the float end. I did not figure the problem out, my best friend did! With the hood off, from the side and top
you can spray penetrant on all the linkages. Flip the lever back and forth a few times and re-apply. May take a few tries but
certainly faster and easier. On my td6 it only happened twice in 20+ years. On one of my td9 it only happened once. The
butterfies are spring loaded so the forked lever will not be touching the butterfly rod when it snaps into place. Good luck. You
can always go to plan B if necessary.....The main track pin goes thru a track bushings and if it has a big bend it could cause the bushing to fail. If fairly straight, weld it with some low-hydrogen rod like 7018 or 8018. If the pin fit is tight, half around should work. If the pin is sloppy, weld both sides all around or find another pin. Remembering that some time later you may have to remove the track. ......my set of td9 (4)books NOS are available and some parts. chuck.
 
outstanding info, thank you all, no reason to believe the linkages are out of adjustment, this is a problem that has gotten worse over time and I am sure gunk in the manifold is the issue, did not think to spray with manifold on and that will be my first attempt to fix, if I do have to pull manifold how likely is it I will be able to re use the manifold gaskets and if re use is not possible does anyone know a good place to look for replacements, I saw a set on eBay for $80 and another website for $7, this is a big difference and wonder if the cheaper site has the correct gaskets, I am not a fan of "might as well" so if the old gaskets are serviceable I would like to re use anywhere possible. On the track I looked at the other side and there should be a roll pin or some kind of retaining pin that goes through the main pin, this would keep the main pin from moving one direction but nothing to keep from backing out in other direction. Are the master pins supposed to be press fit or is there supposed to be some sort of retainer on the outside? Just asking for my education, I will weld the pin but was curious how it was supposed to stay in place.
 
Weld the master pin on both sides and forget
about it and do the other side as well. The
butterfly valves on manifold should be
checked, refer to IT Service manual IT#8 for
instructions and specs. Everything needs to
be set to the proper specs for it to run and
switch over properly. Also pull the valve
cover and make sure starting valves are not
stuck.
 
I have reused the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets many times on gas start diesel engines. The original gaskets are metal faced so they are usually in decent condition. I put a film of grease or anti-seize compound on them to just give them a little help with sealing plus they come off easily if I have to take the manifold off in the future.
 
good morning all, just wanted to say thank you for the advice, ended up removing manifold, let it sit in my solvent tank for a couple days then got after it with wire brush and carb cleaner, was actually red paint under all of the grime, gave the carb a good cleaning, had the starter rebuilt as it had quit, spent too much time holding the button hoping it would start rather than actually fixing the real problem, re used the manifold to head gaskets but got some gasket material and made all new gaskets everywhere else, got everything clean and lubricated and she fired right up.
 

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