Re: 1951 Farmall M 3 point hitch

Hayfarmer

Well-known Member
I am not sure exactly what you have for hydraulics, if it is a 2 way valve operating off of a belly pump, the long rod for the belly pump will have to be locked in the rear position while operating the 2 way valve, also your clutch will have to be out on the tractor
 
Yup the cultivator rod will only be one way. If you want 2 way hydraulics you need to either put a valve in the pressure line and tie the cultivator rod back and use the new valve. Or ypou can see about that christmas tree valve.
 

Thanks for the update, here is a picture of my 2 way (christmas tree) valve. So if I am understanding this correctly, I will have to lock the long straight arm of the liftall all the way back and then use the rod with the offset bend forward and backwards to move the 3 point hitch up and down? I thought it was use the 2 way valve rod for one function up or down depending on how you have it plumbed and the liftall arm for the opposite action? If thats true then I have been misunderstanding this since day one! Thank you!
 
What a mess. If belly pump is intact you are feeding the engine pump suction with pressure from belly pump as long as belly pump lever is pulled back and transmission countershaft is turning. No pressure safety pressure release valve in pressure line to valve and suction line needs moved to low in belly pump. Probably should use a lighter oil with the engine pump.
 

Thanks for the update, so #1 I should check to see if there is a countershaft in the belly pump still being used? #2 What kind of pressure release valve should I put in the system before the 2 way valve? #3 Move the large red hose to the bottom of the belly pump using the drain plug? Thanks again for the help, unfortunately tractor hydraulics as you can tell are not my specialty.
 
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So last night I decided to go to tractor supply on my way home from work and pick up the supplies I needed to move the hydraulic suction line to where the bottom drain plug is on the belly pump. I picked up all 1/2" pipe fittings and a couple t's. I was wondering because the suction line looks bigger than the supply line on the live pump, should I have went with 3/4" pipe fittings and t's? And also, when I remove the suction hose to the current connection it is on behind the liftall lever do I just throw a cap on the 90 elbow? Thanks again guys!
 
Where the suction line is now is off 1/2 inch pipe threads. Should be able to use the same fitting on hose end to fittings. The 1/2 inch suction port is not ideal but several have them plumbed like that. Yes put a plug in the side port. With tractor running in neutral and clutch pedal up, did you try holding the belly pump rod full back and then operating the Christmas tree valve forward and back to see if hitch would raise and lower. If internals and drive to belly pump is intact it should do that. If internals are not intact some of my information will be off. With live pump and that valve you need a relief valve.
 

Thank you for the information. I did try to told the the belly pump lever all the way back and then operate the christmas tree valve, I will get lift when I pull the lever back and if I push the lever forward I will not get the hitch to go down. If I swap the lines in the couplers I will get down but not up. Could there be something wrong with that two way valve? Worth starting there or is there definitely something wrong because of the suction line is too high coming into the side connection port. The way it was hooked up wouldn't that give the two couplers flow in both direction for what ever application they were using the tractor before I purchased it?
 
(quoted from post at 05:38:25 02/23/17) Where the suction line is now is off 1/2 inch pipe threads. Should be able to use the same fitting on hose end to fittings. The 1/2 inch suction port is not ideal but several have them plumbed like that. Yes put a plug in the side port. With tractor running in neutral and clutch pedal up, did you try holding the belly pump rod full back and then operating the Christmas tree valve forward and back to see if hitch would raise and lower. If internals and drive to belly pump is intact it should do that. If internals are not intact some of my information will be off. With live pump and that valve you need a relief valve.

So I was able to play around with the tractor quick when I got home tonight. I held the liftall lever all the way back and clipped into position with the clutch pedal up. I moved the Christmas tree valve lever forward and back and I would only get 1 function. If I released the liftall lever from the holding clip and put it to the natural position and moved the control rod on the Christmas tree valve it would still only do the same function. I am getting long winded but basically I am trying to say it would not matter in my situation if the liftall control was pulled all the way back and locked into position. Does that make any sense to anyone?
 

If pressure will come out one line the Christmas tree valve should send it to the other line. Something must be wrong with the valve but there pretty simple so I don't know. Valve top has 3 bolts. Remove the small nut on the top. Clean any threads sticking up above the nut. Don't force the nut if very tight. Try soaking or a little heat on nut. After nut is off remove the 3 bolts holding top. Lift top off and see if the operating lever fork is in the wide grove and fork has a pin holding it to operating lever shaft. Check that it's not sheared. Spool should pull out of body if wanted to check condition. May have to get valve out from under tank to do that. Spool has a o ring to seal at top.
Could one half of one quick disconnect be not opening or blocked?
 
Hey guys, update from today. Wish I had better news for you guys. First off I want to thank everyone for all the help, I truly appreciate it. I was able to move the suction line into the bottom of the belly pump and I added an inline 1,000 PSI relief valve to the system, added two new pioneer quick couplers to the rear of the tractor and I replaced the 30W with regular hy-tran. Unfortunately I still have the same result, power in only 1 direction, swap the hose sets to the couplers and same result, power only in 1 direction. From this point I am totally lost. Im guessing it has to be something with the christmas tree valve because everything else is brand new! Here is a couple pictures of my changes to the hydraulic set up.
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(quoted from post at 20:13:13 02/25/17) This may be a stupid question, but are you sure the valve shaft isn't broken?

Yea I honestly am not too sure. I am going to disassemble the 2 way valve today and inspect the inside of it. After that I am honestly not too sure where to go from there. Everything is brand new. I did notice that once I switched to the hy-tran I am getting a steady drip from the bottom of the belly pump, guessing that it is just because the hy-tran is a lot thinner than the 30W. Another question I have is, why would I have the live hydraulic pump and still have the active belly pump with the spinning counter shaft? To my understanding, they pretty much deleted the belly pump mechanicals and used it just for a tank when the live system was put into place? Maybe I have been misunderstanding this concept since day one... :cry:
 
Beats me. Spent a couple hours the other day mulling over your problem and still came up with nothing - but then I know little about those valves, or even older hydraulic systems. ...I remember replacing some part in the back end of my TO-30 some 35+years ago, but can't even remember what it was for! :?
 
Good morning guys, so after all this I can finally say that the hydraulics are finally working in both directions. Yesterday I ended up removing the 2 way valve from under the gas tank from the threaded union. I removed the 3 bolts that held the top on and inspected the inside of the valve. Very simple set up for sure. All components, were clean and the O ring was intact. On the top of the threaded shaft there was two unique nuts. I removed one of them and reassembled the valve. Now the remote rod can move the valve in both directions. I don't know if removing the nut did anything or by me taking the shaft of the valve out it freed something that was stuck or limiting it. Either way, glad to finally have it completed. I just wanted to say thank you all for the help, I truly appreciate and wouldn't have done it without you guys!
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(quoted from post at 08:01:30 02/27/17) Good to hear!! Funny how some of the most puzzling problems in life end up having such simple fixes.

Tell me about it!!! I did a lot of unnecessary work but now it has new lines and the suction is where it should be. Thanks again!
 

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