What should a good valve/cylinder head job include?

I am doing a valve job on an IH C221 gas engine. I have purchased a valve kit, and am going to take it to a machine shop, and have them re-do the seats and install the guides.

I am wondering what else should be done while the the head is in the shop. Can anyone advise what should be included in a properly done valve/cylinder head job? Thanks.
 
Every head I have had done the shop cleaned and checked the head for cracks and made sure it was flat. They can plane them if they are off a bit but I've never used a shop that would try to fix cracks. Cracks may not be fixable depending on where they are. I've had some come back with a cheap coat of paint which you probably don't want.
 
if your going to a reputable machine shop, nothing to worry about. the guy knows his job. he will let u know what is required if you ask for a quote.
head will be hot tanked and examined and checked for cracks and straightness.
may require a planing.
it can require guides as that is pretty much standard operation with the job.valves stems will be fitted to the guide with the correct clearance. it may require seats being replaced also.
it may require some new valves or all.just because the valve is new it still requires a resurfaceing.
springs will be checked for tension. keepers will be checked also.
you are talking "redo the seats"... regrinding them is part of the job if they are within spec, or else its replace them.
new seats are ground once installed. same with new valves they must be touched up. he will get the correct seat width and position on the valve face when he is grinding them with the correct interferance angles. lapping valves nowadays is obsolete.
 
I will second the motion to install good valve seals. New intake valve guides from CaseIH will have the machined top for seal but exhaust will not. You can install all same kind and machine them after installation. The exhaust valve seats are known to be loose in those heads and I always installed over sized seats.
 
In my opinion you should have taken the head to the machine shop and told them what you want done. They may not want to use parts you supply and warranty the job. It probably wouldn't have cost any more to buy the parts from them anyway. IMO
 
i noticed everyone is gun ho on putting positive stop valve seals on these old engines. why? ive rebuilt cyl. heads for over 10 years in a machine shop ,
there is no reason to do so unless you like wearing out guides & valve stems , these engines dont flow enough oil to the top end to need them. what little
oil that may run down that guide just keeps thing lubed up , it wont fowl plugs or us oil . theres only .002 to maybe .004 clearance in a fresh rebuild ,
some oil will do them good , the old timers at shop will tell you the same thing . save you money , also IH originally used a safty clip on the valve
stem to keep valve from falling into cyl. if something would break , cant use them with a seal on the guide , id rather save the engine if things go to
heck , then stop that oil & wear things out
 
(quoted from post at 16:19:57 02/13/17) i noticed everyone is gun ho on putting positive stop valve seals on these old engines. why? ive rebuilt cyl. heads for over 10 years in a machine shop ,
there is no reason to do so unless you like wearing out guides & valve stems , these engines dont flow enough oil to the top end to need them. what little
oil that may run down that guide just keeps thing lubed up , it wont fowl plugs or us oil . theres only .002 to maybe .004 clearance in a fresh rebuild ,
some oil will do them good , the old timers at shop will tell you the same thing . save you money , also IH originally used a safty clip on the valve
stem to keep valve from falling into cyl. if something would break , cant use them with a seal on the guide , id rather save the engine if things go to
heck , then stop that oil & wear things out

Excess oil down the guides has always been a problem on these particular engines. Controlling oil down the guides helps reduce a lot of oil consumption and plug fouling problems as they age. C-221 didn't use the safety clip.
 
The shop I generally use for that sort of work: I take them in and say "fix em. If he encounters anything unusual or non useable he calls. Otherwise I trust him to do what it takes to put them back into a-1 condition. No more than needed: no less than required. He will save replaced components for me to see as he details to me what was done.
 
(quoted from post at 19:04:34 02/13/17) The shop I generally use for that sort of work: I take them in and say "fix em. If he encounters anything unusual or non useable he calls. Otherwise I trust him to do what it takes to put them back into a-1 condition. No more than needed: no less than required. He will save replaced components for me to see as he details to me what was done.

Same here. Pakes Engine and Machine Janesville, WI. I would recommend them to anyone.
 
No clips on the valve stems in that engine & IH went to a soft perfect circle seal on the intakes and umbrellas on exhaust in late 60's. Helped a bunch. Forty plus years working around those engines.
 

When I had the head on my 450 rebuilt due to a stuck valve I carried it to the shop and the guy vatted it then called me. The valves had flat spots, had side to side movement, and the seats were pounded in needing new seats. It was suggested to buy a new valve train as replacement parts piece by piece would be about the same $. I did, the head was checked and no cracks or warps. Almost $800 later I have basically a new head.
Good luck.
 
I had a C-123 head "redone" a few years ago. For $305 the most reputable shop around here pulled the whole thing apart, ran it through their cleaning process, checked for cracks using mag particle inspection, and checked it for flatness. #1 cylinder on the tractor was full of water so those valves were junk. They asked if I wanted to put newer seats in though said its not necessary so I declined that.

If I let the tractor sit and idle for a while, it will puff out smoke when you rev it up. So I know oil is getting by the valve stems. But I went 2 years between oil changes on that tractor and hardly noticed any loss at all. So I will also second the notion of leaving it the way it is.
 

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