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Starter switch for M question

D

denglish

Member
Hi,
I have a 49 M with the foot activated starter switch. It failed this weekend. When I inspected it, one of the terminals was loose because it had overheated.

My question - is there a good source for these switches that will hold up under the high current demanded by these starters? This is a working tractor, so I am not worried about originality, hence I could switch to a different kind of switch or a solenoid. Any recommendations?

Also, is it possible my starter is going, and drawing too much current? Is there an easy check?
 
This would be a good time to upgrade to a steering post switch
location. The later models had that. The cast switch housing
should be easy to get from a salvage yard. As far as the switch
goes, they are readily available. Some people have complained
about them, but I haven't had any problems. Moving the location
would require new cables. The old cables are probably the cause of
overheating. NAPA can make custom cables that are bigger if you
have a 6 volt system.
 
Get a starter switch like this on this starter for a user tractor. Can be mounted where your switch is now and just put your cables on the big terminals. will need a push button start switch or a key switch with start position. Used on some ford products and others, also on IH 300 through 450 tractors. 6 volt on those until change to 12 during 50 series production. 12 volt ones had a extra terminal to bypass a resister when starting. Doesn't need that wire to operate like the previous ones.
a151478.jpg
 
I changed my SMTA to set up similar to one posted for that reason, couldn't seem to find a good starter push switch. I had a starter repair shop soder a bolt type terminal to fields. My solenoid is mounted a short distance from starter. Mine is changed over to 12 volt so I don't need as heavy of cables. I used the ford type solenoid with the extra terminal that bypasses the resister for starting.
 
(quoted from post at 10:21:36 02/13/17) Yeah. I think I will go with D Slater's set up. I'll use the old foot switch to activate the solenoid.
Click to expand...

My M is set up similar to DSlaters. When I bought it, the previous owner had drilled 2 big holes in the headlight bar. A key switch was in one hole, and the push button switch in the other. I have since installed a post mounted bracket and the push button switch lives there. I did away with the key switch and am now using an aftermarket oem style on-off switch. The holes in the headlight bar have also been filled.
 
(quoted from post at 10:30:38 02/13/17) I agree with D Slater, the switches are so crappy now, I would use a solenoid.
Click to expand...

The one I burned out was less than a year old, I think. The bad thing was, it went without warning. I was using the tractor, shut it off for lunch and when I went back - nothing. Pull started it.
 
(quoted from post at 11:32:55 02/13/17)
(quoted from post at 10:30:38 02/13/17) I agree with D Slater, the switches are so crappy now, I would use a solenoid.
Click to expand...

The one I burned out was less than a year old, I think. The bad thing was, it went without warning. I was using the tractor, shut it off for lunch and when I went back - nothing. Pull started it.
Click to expand...

I've had some trouble with those same starter switches. Seems that the switch itself is good enough, but they are assembled poorly with insufficient attention to detail. A few minutes spent inspecting the switch and making sure everything is good and tight will be time well spent.
 
For what its worth.... Every time my M's starter switch starts getting hot, I find that my battery cables
are also dirty. Clean up the cables and battery terminals, and I'll betcha the switch works better, too.
 
I did my Super M like D Slater except I hid the solenoid between the batt. box and gas tank support and used the switch to energize the solenoid.
 
(quoted from post at 18:09:15 02/13/17) Never saw a factory M with the steering post switch.
Click to expand...

No. I don't think any were installed at the factory, but one from an H will work. The mounting bolt that holds the ammeter and light switch box needs to be a bit longer but the original will work.
 
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