656 gas starting problem update

Okay, I bought a new set of spark plugs and put them in. Got the tractor running now, but only with the choke on. I can go up to high idle as long
as the choke is on, if I take the choke off, it dies almost immediately. I pulled the carb off and checked the fuel level and it is about half full
in the bowl. I took the metering tube out and the fuel is about 3/4 up the well for the tube. I think I am going to get a kit for the carb even
though it was rebuilt before i bought it. I do need to order a fuel shutoff solenoid as it is broken off and does not touch the jet at all.

OK here we go , I H GAS engines are COLD BLOODED and will NOT Go full tilt with out a lot of coughen wheezen backfiring and falling on there face till they get warmed up , usually in cold weather with a working heat riser in about five to ten mins of warm up , Next is your dist centrifugal advance working properly ???? , is the ing timing set where it is suppose to be ?? The fuel shut off solenoid is just that when the key switch is in the off position the pintel sets into the main jet to stop the flow of gas getting to the engine to prevent run on whenyou turn the key off on a hot engine . When the key switch is turned on the pintel is moved WAY OFF the seat to allow full fuel delivery thru the main jet. ON 06-66 series tractors you DO NOT try and wheen the fule mixture back as you will do harm to the pistons. Now as to float level you check float level with the top part of the carb upside down with gasket in place and you take your measurements that way , NO by looking at how much fuel is in the bowl.

Had the same thing happen on Super H. I boiled it out and installed new kit but had to take it off again and run tip cleaners through the holes in carb and found a plugged hole. Runs like new now.

I will make sure I run through the jets after I soak it in cleaner. Thanks for the info.

Okay, here I go. Let me give you a bit of background on me. 35 years turning wrenches. Master certified in automotive and now in the construction machinery industry where i at present am working. Have owned 25 plus international, 15 plus case and an allis chalmers. I do know that it takes a while to warm up the engine before the choke can be released. I have had this engine running to complete warm up and take the choke off and it dies instantly. And I do disagree with you on setting the float. Yes, the specs are the way to go, but in lieu of not having the specs checking how much is in the bowl is another way to get close i.e. very little fuel in the bowl, float set too low, fuel up to the top of the bowl, float set too high, or maybe bad float. And seeing as the pintle is broke off on my fuel shutoff solenoid and I have the carb off, it would be a good time to replace it.

I bought one on an auction from an IH dealer a few years back that ran just like yours. They couldnt figure it out so they sold it. It would only run with the choke out, push it in and it would die. I took carb apart and the main jet was gone. Dont know why or where it went. Bought a new jet from IH and its ran great since. I still dont know why it would run with the choke out though, would of thought that would make it worse.

Well ok so your a wrench twister , but your no master Farmall guy . So now it's time you learn . Lets start with checking the manifold bolts for tighness , yes they are a pain in the drain to get to , if in doubt on condition of the gskt then remove the manifold and while you have it off check and make sure that intake and exhaust ports are all flat with a straight edge. Then put it back on and start tighting it up from middle out . So now you know you have a good seal there so that is out of the way , Now next take the carb apart and soak it in a good chemical carb solution and let it stay there for a day . And when i say take it apart i mean take it apart . Then i use Dawn dish soap mixed strong in realy hot water to wash out the chem. then a rinse in cold then a complete blowing out of all passages then i have alll the small drill bits that fit the carbs i work on and hand clean each hole and blow them out . If it is not taking fuel with out the choke then she is not getting fuel thru the normal circit and by choking it to death your bypassen the main jet . Now the main jet is a press in jet and that one should not be removed But with a number drill you can clean it out , now as to what number drill that fits your carb i am not sure on it . Then once you have that done make sure you have full stream flow from the tank and that the fine mesh screen is inplace in the sediment bowl . You DO NOT use and inline filter on a gravity feed system and all that is needed is the correct screen in the sediment bowl as if anything passes thru the screen it will pass thru the jets. And OH BTW you still have a few years to play cautch up as we have 55 years of wrench twisten from mild to wild and from small to BIG If it runs on tire or track i have already BTDT. And i can make a Farmall run . I could go out to the truck and get my BOOKS out and tell you what the float sets at But it is snowing out there and it is cold .

(quoted from post at 16:57:03 01/30/17) Okay, here I go. Let me give you a bit of background on me. 35 years turning wrenches. Master certified in automotive and now in the construction machinery industry where i at present am working. Have owned 25 plus international, 15 plus case and an allis chalmers. I do know that it takes a while to warm up the engine before the choke can be released. I have had this engine running to complete warm up and take the choke off and it dies instantly. And I do disagree with you on setting the float. Yes, the specs are the way to go, but in lieu of not having the specs checking how much is in the bowl is another way to get close i.e. very little fuel in the bowl, float set too low, fuel up to the top of the bowl, float set too high, or maybe bad float. And seeing as the pintle is broke off on my fuel shutoff solenoid and I have the carb off, it would be a good time to replace it.

Click to expand...

The proper way to measure fuel level is to use a barbed fitting and clear hose in the bowl drain fitting and watch the fuel level with the engine running.
When you drop the fuel bowl off of the carburetor the float is no longer displacing the fuel so the level observed is not an indication of the running fuel level.
Without looking up the spec, on those carbs when setting the float if the bottom of the float is parallel to the gasket surface when held upside down it is close enough to run okay. Pay attention to the float drop adjustment as well.

Tractor vet covered the manifold gasket well which is most likely where your problem is

And your no master farmall guy either. You are a master at running off at the mouth

...and how exactly do you remove the carburetor and take the bowl off without spilling any gas?

Well then why aren't you the one with all the answers and how many year have you made your living fixen them ?? I am sure you have a complete service truck with all the special I H tools like i do and i'll bet you have layed out big money for those tools just four you hobby . How many times have you ever seen me ask how to fix a Farmall , i have asked a couple questions on other brands that i have never worked on before . So yes there are THREE of us that have made our living working on Farmalls so yes we are the grand masters on this board . From the letter sires up to the 86 's i have been thru every inch of those tractors . The only think i can not do is work on the PFC hyd. systems as i do not have the other attachment for my flow rater and i am sure that you have a 50 GPM 5000 PSI flow rater setting on your work bench or in your truck. And i am also sure that you have people coming to you all the time to rebuild there carb.s Yes i am a grumpy old man . But i know my Farmalls. So the next time someone has a problem with there Farmall since you know so much then you give them the answer for Free . and i will keep on just fixen them at normal labor rates .