560 Hyd noise

garr806

Member
So my fast hitch valve, the 3 little gears were broken so I replaced that valve with a regular hyd valve. I have a new 17 GPM hyd pump. First time starting the tractor up with the valve replacement it took awhile to get the air out (normal). Then with the valves levers in the netural position I heard a short continuous squawk. I have a gauge in the hyd test port when it squawks the goes up around 500 psi and drops and goes up and etc. Thank you in advance!
 
I have been told that upgrading to the 17 G.P.M. pump the filter may not keep up. The other thing did you replace the seal and pipe that goes from the pump to the body of the tractor? I know I have a problem with that and the one valve on my 560. It only builds 800 instead of the 1100 or so. The valve is scored and not seating correctly when you set it from single to double acting.I bought a different valve but have not changed it yet. Others with more experience should be along soon with more help as I never really had trouble with the hydraulics on the ones I owned before.
 
Pete 23 or D Slater will know the answer, but it could be the pilot orifice and screen in the regulator block causing the issue. Some need to be cleaned and some are too small and can be drilled out. (small number drills) Jim
 
I have that regulator block off earlier and I did clean the orifice because it had gunk in it, maybe it could be plugged and/or orifice hole is too small. If need to drill out what size of drill bit.
 
On your orfice and screen. The 560 used a ball secured with a roll pin . That ball will peen the hole in orfice partially closed. Now the fun begins. Early one had a soft seat, later hard seat. The soft seat can be drilled out but the hard seat would require a very good drill bit which I never found for that small hole.

The orfice should be stamped with the size and if memory is right I believe all 560's were .031. Older tractors were .024. New orfice with screen will be .031 for all tractors. I usually drill them out to about .040 for starters and go from there. Usually with regular valves, not teledepth, that works out. Too large and system will not go on demand when needed.

Now, you might be sucking a little air and a easy way to test is put a plastic hose on the fitting at pump where you apparently have your gauge, and run that hose right back into your filler plate. Least amount of air will make that oil foam bad and lead to all kinds of problems including burping.

I should have added also, when cleaning the orfice screen, cut the end off to clean thourally and then just roll end up a bit. Also, throw the ball and pin away if so equipped. New orfice, about $65.
 
Pete23 the ball you are mentioning is it item number 7 in this picture.
a149769.jpg
 
No, the ball is not shown in the parts diagram as was included in the orfice screen, not a separate service item. Number seven is the unloading valve ball that the piston pushs down with the pressure exerted on the piston with the fluid that flows through the orfice in the screen. What makes the burping is that ball goes back on it's seat for a second, then the pressure builds higher, more flow through the orfice pushs the piston down again. As you can see from the picture, the o-ring on that piston is critical as well as any leakage past o ring could exceed amount of through the orfice and there again cause ball to seat and burp.
 

Pete, you made reference to the O-ring on the piston as being critical. I would like to add that this O-ring is a special size ring. You cannot get this ring from one of those kits. 352024R1 is 55/64 x 1 1/8 x 9/64
Would this have anything with why some have to drill out the orifice? I have always just cleaned the orifice and install a new O-ring on the piston and replaced the gasket.
 
I always used the o ring from the parts books so that was not a problem. The usual reason for drilling the orfice a little larger is the excess leakage past the control land on a teledepth valve. The regular valves don't usually bother MUCH but they can. You will note IH increased the size of the orfice for all tractors, not just teledepth tractors. That helped a lot of the pulsing in the older tractors like 400s etc.

The valve in neutral is supposed to block the control port completely with the control NARROW land on the valve spool. As the valve wear, they will leak more oil past that land than what can be supplied through the orfice. This will short change the regulating piston the oil it needs to move down and open that ball style unloading valve. When you move a valve from the neutral positon, the control land on spool moves off the control port and spills a bunch of oil. That then allows more oil to flow through control channel to dump than can be supplied through the orfice to the regulating piston and piston is pushed up by spring under ball and system goes on demand.

In the single action positon of the control valve, you are merely turning the spool of valve to such a position that the spool always keeps that control passage covered when the lever is moved in one direction, but opens it in other direction. Quite a unique feature in it's day actually.

When I was a young pup, I would take the service manuals home and study them as I had no previous experience in hydraulics or diesel systems. Had to learn from the seat of my pants so to speak. I did have schooling in engines and other automotive operations as I never intended to be a farm tractor mechanic. Jobs were tough to come by back then too.
 
Try messing with the little two-way or single-acting cylinder knobs.

They are down below the dash about boot top high....about the size of a quarter and made to put an adjustable wrench on to turn.
 

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