Farmall Super M Hydraulic fill cap

chappie

Member
I removed the belly pump on my Farmall Super M, and replaced it, after having a shop replace a leaky seal. I have it all back together, except for adding the Hydraulic fluid. I found some articles on here, which said that a Farmall H takes 6 quarts of 30W (non det) oil, or Universal Hydraulic fluid. (I'll be using the Univ. Hyd, because this gets connected to other machinery).

Anyhow, does a Super M also use 6 quarts?
This tractor does NOT have a dipstick.

My other question, the Fill Cap is meant to vent, for obvious reasons, but the vent hole is on the top of the cap. (See Image).
Since this tractor is left outdoors, wont rain water get into that hole? I know this hole is very small, but any size hole will allow water to get in.

I know that all these tractors came like this, but I am still concerned about this.

I'm trying to think of a way to put a cover over that fill cap, which will vent from the bottom, and still repel water. I suppose a plain soup can would work, but I'm sure that will rattle around, and may even fall off. Have any of you found a better solution for this?

Thanks for all help!
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Drill up from the bottom of the grip flutes and into the center hole. Plug the top hole with braze. Fill it to 8 inches down from the top of the threads. Jim
 
When I shut down my H in the barn I shut it down, lock brakes, put in gear, make double sure I shut down the battery disconnect switch, then at last, I push in the hydraulic lift-rod, all the way down, the 3-point goes down, and I can hear the air venting up out of that vent hole; shooshhhh, as the 3-point relaxes down. Maybe you could also listen carefully and hear the air venting out of whatever you rig up?
 
That cap is supposed to be packed full of cotton waste material so air entering is filtered somewhat. I have never noticed any water buildup in tractors I worked on but suppose it would be possible. What I have seen a couple times is no dip stick and the cotton waste came loose out of cap. Got sucked into pump and locked it up. The dip stick had a washer on it that held the dip stick from falling into pump. That hole in washer was large enough to breath also and dip stick is flattened on end so it would not go through the hole. .
 
I heard that it's supposed to have that cotton in there. But if it's going to get into the pump. I'll leave it out. Besides my own Super M, I have worked on a few other M's and several H's. None had that cotton in there. Only one of the H's had the dipstick.

My local implement store said they could get me a new dipstick, for around $75. I told them to keep it at that price. For the couple times a year I check the fluid level, I'll just use a cheap screwdriver, and use a paint stick to mark the proper level on it, and use that to measure the fluid level. I'll just hang that screwdriver in the workshop so I can find it.

Thanks to the person who told me the proper depth, I can now make up such a thing.

I am wondering if a 1.5 inch PVC pipe cap would fit over that fill cap, to keep water out. It would still vent around the fluted part. I wont know till I go buy a PVC cap and try it, cuz I dont have any of them on hand.
 
I am wondering if a 1.5 inch PVC pipe cap would fit over that fill cap, to keep water out. It would still vent around the fluted part.
Maybe a cap from the right size aerosol can?
 
Have found general purpose vents on some that have holes pointed down under cap and a screen or filter material built in. Hydraulic supply places have them. Quick look on ebay showed one with 3/4 male threads for 9.49. You would need add a collar on that one. If pump still has the 3-1/4 inch long fill pipe the dipstick full mark was 9.5 inches down.
 
And,IF you want to get a bit "clever" you can re drill the cap from below for venting like Jim has mentioned ,THEN use the top vent hole for the starting point to add a dip stick to the cap.


Or you can sometimes fins those caps with dipsticks already added for sale as well.
 

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