1066 questions

Goodman · Jan 19, 2017

I'm looking at purchasing a 1066 with a front blade for misc brush clearing and maybe grading. I ran across it but it is larger than anything else I own. Anything in particular I should look closely at on this tractor? How effective are these blades? Seems to me the lift cylinders being where they are at the rear would be a weak link and provide a lot of slope at the blade. Any advice appreciated. And what's a good price in MS.

kub6040 · Jan 19, 2017

Don't put much stock in the blade . The tractor however was a decent machine at one time , check t/a , and everything else for wear. 5000- 15000

pms · Jan 19, 2017

Looks like the front bolster has been changed.Using that blade on that tractor as a dozer I can see the bolster possibly breaking.Likes like a decent tractor from pictures.1066's are a damn good tractor but like anything how well it was maintained makes a big difference.Best bet is find somebody that really knows those tractors to look at it.Parts and repair for those tractors gets expensive fast.

Paul

fastfarmall · Jan 19, 2017

If the brush is pushed loose with a crawler, then u can push it around, maybe, with the blade on the loader!

ss55 · Jan 19, 2017

In their day, 1066 were good tractors. To me, the dozer blade, the rice tires and the "just enough to get by" paint job on the sheet metal are all warning signs that the tractor could have had several rough lives and now may be in bad shape. If both pairs of rear tires are filled with fluid ballast I would be especially worried about the 40 year old drive line. I would price it as a parts tractor ($3,000 to $4,000?), plus $1,000 to $2,000 for the good tires, plus whatever the dozer blade is worth to you. Use the unit as-is and be ready to hang the dozer on another tractor if this one breaks down.

Ask the seller if he would sell the blade separately, if the answer is no it could mean the tractor has problems.

A small dozer may be better for brush clearing and grading, but buying a older dozer is often a can of worms too.

the tractor vet · Jan 19, 2017

Myself i would never even thing of using a rubber tired FARM tractor for clearing brush and SMALL trees . YOU wqant to clear trees and brush then go rent a 100 Hp. Dozer for a month you will be money ahead , Oh you don't know how to run a dozer then hire someone that knows how . So you say well it will cost me a lot of money , yep maybe BUT how much is your life worth . I cringe every time i hear a guy talking about messing with trees brush and stumps with a tractor . Draging logs out of the woods with a tractor and chain can kill you .

dgoodman2 · Jan 19, 2017

Thanks for the advice but I've worked in land clearing and construction most of my life. And I have run a dozer and know well their capabilities. What I plan to use it for I can also do with a 8' box blade but it sure would be nice to look forward instead of backwards all the time. I'm not interested in purchasing another dozer. Just too much $ for no more than I use one. Becomes maintenance money pit. This way if I double the dozer rental cost I end up with another tractor. That's my way of thinking. Just looking at an option.

dgoodman2 · Jan 19, 2017

Having never owned a dual wheel tractor I had really never thought about the additional wear in the drivetrain and especially with the extra fluid weight.
Thanks. Certainly something to consider.

dgoodman2 · Jan 19, 2017

I noticed the bolster painted also and was curious. Not sure I understand how it would break with the blade attaching much farther back but anything is possible.

Yes a good review by someone would help if I proceed.

Thanks.

ben brown · Jan 19, 2017

my two cents the 1066 was a fine tractor they were made to be hook to a disk plow for field work plan and simple thy run for years doing field work put loader blade on them that trun them in to instant junk dam good for guys like me that work on them transmission clutches shifting problem..

BarnyardEngineering · Jan 20, 2017

I don't see a TA lever, so it looks to me like a factory TA delete tractor. That's one less $5000 repair to worry about, but it also detracts from the value of the tractor for most.

That blade was meant for pushing chopped forage into a bunk silo, not for rooting out trees or brush.

How wide is the blade? If it's 12' wide, no way would it work for what you want to do. Maybe if it's only 8'. Then you could lose the duals.

The fact that whoever painted it could not be bothered to paint it in the correct color scheme, or put the decals where they belong bothers me. If they're that lazy about slapping on a quick paint job to make it look better to sell, what else were they lazy about?

Goodman · Jan 20, 2017

Thanks Barnyard for info on the TA. I'll check that out if I proceed. It is a 8' blade. I was concerned about the general design of the blade. I do
think you are right on that. Thanks.

Bob 7337 · Jan 20, 2017

Are you sire that is even a 1066? The front frames rails look like they are from 06 or 56 series. My guess it might a older tractor that a 400 series engine put in and 66 series sheet metal put on it

notjustair · Jan 20, 2017

Uh oh. No. That might be a great tractor (which I'm skeptical of with that slapped on paint). There are other issues.

First, that blade is only wide enough for that tractor set narrow if you want to doze with it. Then you have a narrow more unstable machine. You have to lose the duals because they will always be flat or keep you from fitting where the blade will.

Second, that blade makes me nervous. The supports that run to the back are flimsy. The majority of the blade is suppported in the middle of the machine wayyyyy forward. I don't like that. I can't figure out whether it attaches to the front bolster or what. Does it only attach at those large pins? At least a true front loader attaches at the cylinder and the top of the vertical support in front of the station.

This machine was not made to be a dozer. It was likely used to load and pack a trench silo. That's loose material. I know dozers are pricey, but you will have a big paperweight if you use that as one.

toolz · Jan 20, 2017

I get a kick out of all of the assumptions, from just a fuzzy picture. The frame rails are the right ones. The bolster has been painted with the same rattle can that the rest of the sheet metal was painted with. Doubt it's been changed, and it wouldn't matter anyway. I'm sure the blade didn't do the tractor any good if it's been used a lot, but no worse than all of the tractors out there with loaders on them. If it starts and runs good, shifts and steers good, and the hydraulics work, I'd say around $5000 would be fair, maybe a little more if you like it. The ROPS and canopy are probably worth $1000. Don't know what the blade is worth. Overall, the 1066 is a great, reliable tractor.

AlinMO · Jan 21, 2017

An Ag tractor is made for pulling. It does not do so good pushing.
You can pull a blade and dig in but digging in with a front mounted blade is hard on the tractor and operator. Loaders and blades for farmers' tractors are made for loose material.

1066 questions

Goodman

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kub6040

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pms

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fastfarmall

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ss55

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the tractor vet

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dgoodman2

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dgoodman2

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dgoodman2

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ben brown

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BarnyardEngineering

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Goodman

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Bob 7337

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notjustair

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toolz

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AlinMO

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