Farmall 300 Rear crankshaft seal replacement

Hello-

Looking for some help from someone that has successfully replaced the rear main crankshaft felt seals on a Farmall 300 that could explain to me how to do it? Have never done one before. I currently have my 300 split apart right now to work on the TA and clutches with the flywheel removed. I suspect the rear main seal is leaking. Tractor would leak from belly whenever I parked it, oil looked black in color like engine oil, not red like the hy-tran oil. Inside of bell housing looked wet. Would like to replace while I have the flywheel off and everything apart.

How hard is it to replace the seal? I have heard that some leak even after replacement? Really don't want to split the tractor twice! Want to do it right the first time. Is there a kit available with all the gaskets and felt seals? Any help would be great. Thanks in advance!


-Jesse
 
Going to stick my neck out since no answer. Seems everyone has there favorite way. Tried several different ways and my beast luck is to surface the seal retainers at all matting surfaces until flat. Try to oil soak felts without getting quite to ends. Do try fit in retainers first, and I do trim ends if I think they stick up high enough to push out between matting surfaces of retainers. Use a good silicone sealer, just a small dab on ends of felts, more like a little dot in center. Use thin as can be put on the gaskets. Little lube on crankshaft not enough to drip. Carefully install parts and all retainer bolts. Tighten bolts to block just enough to hold flat but will still move. Tighten 2 bolts that squeeze retainers together then finish tightening other bolts. Put lower plate on last. Oil pan needs dropped when replacing rear seal. Lowest price for me on rear main seals with gaskets is felpro set at napa BS40022. Oil pan gasket is OS3309C if wanted.
Use above info at own risk, just something that has worked for me or luck. Hope you get more advice.
 
(quoted from post at 06:25:04 01/17/17) Going to stick my neck out since no answer. Seems everyone has there favorite way. Tried several different ways and my beast luck is to surface the seal retainers at all matting surfaces until flat. Try to oil soak felts without getting quite to ends. Do try fit in retainers first, and I do trim ends if I think they stick up high enough to push out between matting surfaces of retainers. Use a good silicone sealer, just a small dab on ends of felts, more like a little dot in center. Use thin as can be put on the gaskets. Little lube on crankshaft not enough to drip. Carefully install parts and all retainer bolts. Tighten bolts to block just enough to hold flat but will still move. Tighten 2 bolts that squeeze retainers together then finish tightening other bolts. Put lower plate on last. Oil pan needs dropped when replacing rear seal. Lowest price for me on rear main seals with gaskets is felpro set at napa BS40022. Oil pan gasket is OS3309C if wanted.
Use above info at own risk, just something that has worked for me or luck. Hope you get more advice.



Thanks for the info D Slater. I did order the two Fel-pro gasket sets today, $11.00 and $8.00 at the local auto parts store, not bad. I have seen mentioned, and in the fel pro gasket set that there looks to be 2 little plugs? Are these easy to find once taken apart? Thanks!


-Jesse
 

Forgot to ask. You mentioned surfacing the mating surfaces. Realize the retainer is soft aluminum and warps easily. Is the retainers where they usually leak at the mating surfaces, or is it faulty felt installation when putting back together?
 
Only thing I would add to what Slater put out there for you is that I always stuff the entire felt seal into the retainer. The correct good ones will look like they will never fit but they do. I start at the ends and keep working the rest of felt in. I think the first ones I replaced I trimmed the ends but later I stuffed them in. Some times you get a hold of some felts that almost drop in place and they are not going to do a good job.
 
Plugs go at edge of steel plate on bottom of lower seal retainer. Rear of oil pan crosses the plate also. I use a little sealer at ends of it. Most seal retainers are not flat when removed. At where they join and to block. If the bolts to block were really tightened the back side around bolt holes will be raised. Matting surfaces between halfs may not meet square. Flat glass and favorite abrasive will usually work. If main bearings are loose it can also cause seal to not hold. Plugs are easy to find. Forgot to say I don't move the crankshaft or use for at least 24 hours after installing.
 
(quoted from post at 12:24:21 01/17/17) Plugs go at edge of steel plate on bottom of lower seal retainer. Rear of oil pan crosses the plate also. I use a little sealer at ends of it. Most seal retainers are not flat when removed. At where they join and to block. If the bolts to block were really tightened the back side around bolt holes will be raised. Matting surfaces between halfs may not meet square. Flat glass and favorite abrasive will usually work. If main bearings are loose it can also cause seal to not hold. Plugs are easy to find. Forgot to say I don't move the crankshaft or use for at least 24 hours after installing.

D Slater-


I got around to installing the new rear main felt seal set today. Had to quite a bit of sanding with glass and sand paper today to get the housings flat again. They were warped like you said. Had a quick question on the plugs at the ends of the steel plate on bottom. They are rubber plugs in the Fel Pro gasket set. fit fine in holes in block but stick out past metal plate on bottom. Do you trim them off flush with the lower plate? Otherwise the oil pan gasket will not sit right at those points? Thanks

-Jesse
 
Don't remember needing to trim them. Probably would if they stick up more than oil pan gasket thickness. Should squeeze in if up a little.
 

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