Radiator repair -vs- replace

I had a plugged radiator on my farmall H, was fine for tractor drives but would get too hot plowing. I took it to a radiator shop they said it definitely had a restriction and needs to be re-cored. I have the option of $515 to re-core or $400 to buy a new one from this site. I'm thinking I'm better off re-coring the original equipment, much thicker tanks. Also, the radiator shop asked me if I wanted it painted red or black, how are they typically done?
 
I think you are better off with re-core from reputable shop, but it is quite a bit more money, that you will never recoup.
 
I would do a re-core especially if it is going to do some work.
I bought a replacement for my smta, not from yt and was not satisfied, returned it and had a re-core done to the original.
Some replacements have less rows of tubes.
I leave mine black.
Just my opinion
Dennis
 
Before spending money why not fill with vinegar run for a few days and then back flush could also be your block full of junk. How hot does it get when plowing does it boil over or are you reading hot on the temp guage.
 
Before you go crazy with the credit card, listen to Gene. Start simple and cheap, end up at complicated and expensive as a last resort.
 
That is a good point, timing too slow will also contribute to heat.

The block on my H was half full of muck took side cover off and power washed it out.
 
I have to agree. Drain it and then rig up a way to hook a garden hose to the block drain and back flush it. The drain it again and fill with vinegar and work it. Then let it cool and drain it back out again and back flush it again. But this time of year be careful not to let it freeze since vinegar will in fact freeze
 
I'd try cleaning it out first. The quality of new parts can be disappointing. Since you have the radiator out, lay it on it's face in your basement and fill it with cheap vinegar for a few days. Shake it around, dump it out and repeat.

How hot does it get when plowing ? Our soil is on the sandy side and pulling 2 16s in third gear is about all my H will stand. If it is a warm day the gauge will be right up at the arrow (~212?F). If it gets much higher than that, it needs more coolant.

Greg
 
It was a different colored tractor of the same vintage, but when the radiator started leaking I took it to a shop for cleaning and core repair. After cleaning the core lad a dozen or more leaks probably with more to come. I had to choose whither to re-core or go with a new Chinese made radiator. I chose to re-core and keep as many original parts as possible and keep her looking as original as possible. The Chinese radiator didn't look much like the original. Sure, it was extra $ down the drain that I'll never recoup. but I feel better about it.
 
If you can swing the cost, I would get the radiator recored regardless of what else you do.

Getting the radiator recored will eliminate that as a variable in your heating problem. There is nothing worse than taking an old radiator off, flushing out the engine block, putting the same old radiator back on, and STILL have the tractor getting too hot the next time you go out plowing.

Terribly inconvenient if you're trying to get some work done.

Embarrassing as all get-out if you're at a plow day.

Only reason I might not recore the radiator is if I was sure the radiator shop was trying to sell me a bill of goods. It's tough to find a reputable radiator shop anymore, and even the good ones tend to overplay any problems they find.
 
I am to the point were I am ready to have the problem fixed for good, I have flushed and back flushed a number of times. I actually didn't try vinegar but I'd like this to be the final fix. I do trust this radiator shop, I have always heard good things about them. They rested for a restriction and then did some sort of cleaning. I have no idea if the cleaning is high pressure or chemical but it started leaking afterwards and he said it was very brittle. I suppose it is ok to re-core every 75 years. I have this one, my son has to worry about the next re-core.
 
So much of the repro stuff today is junk. I always re-core if possible. Fortunately we have a good shop here, owned by the same family for 2 generations.
Do make sure the top and bottom tanks are good, as they can be paper thin and a new core will not permanently fix the problem. I had to rebuild the radiator on a Cletrac crawler a few years ago. Tanks were damaged (something dropped on them) and cores were shot. In that case, i would have bought a repro if one existed.
 
My SM radiator was shot. Took it to a old time quality shop and the cost to re core it was 300.00 more than new one. I chose to go new. New radiator was a Northern. I have no problems with overheating and no leaks. My mounting and sheet metal holes lined up perfectly. I have also used a Clancey made in Ireland that seemed to be very good quality.
Attached shows it installed...

r/

Pete in NC
a148916.jpg
 
you are correct with the black paint. they are black for a reason. black radiates the heat the best. and you dont want the paint too thick either.
 

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