350 utility engine replacement

JeffL

Member
New topic based on previous posts.

My 350u blew a hole in the side while troubleshooting engine noise. Now it's time to replace the engine.

I obtained a c175 short block in the picture below that came from an engine that was originally propane and ran some later converted to gas. My engine was always gas and I intend to reuse my original top end with the bottom end in the picture.

The engine in the picture ran with no smoke a year ago. The propane head was sold and the engine sat for a year outside under a tarp with no head. It moves freely and no detectable Ridge and very clean oil on dipstick.

I need advice on:

1) will there be any problems reusing the flat top pistons with my head in terms of compression or other concerns.

2) how to clean the pistons and cylinders without pulling the pistons out if possible.

I will post separately on the head itself once I get it off.


43051.jpg
 
I think you ar in good shape. The rust appears to be surface rust and can be taken out by placing the block on supports or
an engine stand upside down and using 400 grit wet or dry paper (wet with 0w30 motor oil as a lubricant on the paper. Go
around and around only, or at 45Degree angles, not up and down. Clean until all orange rust is gone from visible areas.
Rinse with paint thinner (while upside down) with a rag, then use brake clean spray to final rinse with white gloove
success. Coat with clean engine oil, and turn right side up. Clean the outside as needed and install the cylinder head and
put it in. I would prime the oil gallery with a pump oil can and small hose into the oil pressure fitting to assure oil on
startup. It will e fine. Jim
 

Original pistons for standard elevation with a gas head were flat top. Don't see a problem with a gas head. May want to remove cover on side of engine and check for crap and rust at cam followers and area if it was sitting open. Doesn't hurt to check coolant opening and baffles in cover on other side of block, also drop oil pan for checking and cleaning.
 
I did some preliminary cleaning with an oily rag. I see something that looks like it could be a cracked but I have not worked on many open engines . I got a picture best I can for now with bad light

43061.jpg
 
IF that were mine, I'd pull the pan, and the
cam cover on the side, and rinse it down
good with gas or diesel, then brakeclean.
That way it can all migrate out the bottom
with the pan off. I think what you believe
to be a crack is just a water/rust stain.
Water makes funny marks like that when it
gets to lay in shiny metal for a while. Do
like Jim says with the bores and they should
be fine. That being said, I would never
leave an engine that I may have planned on
reusing without rebuilding with just a tarp
over it, especially outside. Mice love stuff
like that. I will usually at least make a
cover with a piece of cardboard and a
hammer. Tap on the cardboard over the head
studs to get a pattern and then punch the
holes out. Too much chance for critters and
blowing dust to get in there. Better safe
than sorry while it is apart, then after it
is assembled. But, that's just me being a
clean engine freak like I am, not everyone
is like that, and many get away with it.

Ross
 
Good advice. I will post once I get it cleaner. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't a waste of time.

Once it is clean I will take it inside but there are sometimes mice in the outbuilding so I will still cover it as suggested.

Need something to be able to bolt the engine on the engine stand . On the front the mounting holes are too wide for my stand and in the rear the flywheel is in the way. Unless I only use two holes, not sure if that will hold
 
I'm with RBoots on this: I would rebuild it.You have an engine half apart that has laying around that no doubt has dirt up inside it,unseen or seen.It would have dirt and grit inside it even if it was kept inside.Also it's half apart-disassemble it the rest of the way,clean and inspect the block,crank,cam,bearings,oil passages,etc.Mark
 
No, 2 holes won't hold safely. Just pop the
flywheel off, that way you can replace the
rear main seal as well while it's split (I
would)
 
I see the flywheel doesn't need a puller so I'll remove

If I decide to disassemble the engine what's the best way to clean it? I have seen people post about using power washer but I was worried about using water. I saw people use low odor solvent with air compressor tool that has a hose on it to suck the solvent.
 
I would use a power washer only if the block is completely disassembled. The blow gun method works well, it blows stuff around but the solvent has pretty good velocity for loosening the crud. I have had good results with using the blow gun with mineral solvents making sure there is no flame around to ignite the fog that's blown out into the air. When you are done with the blow gun you can put some solvent in a garden sprayer to rinse the engine cavity to get some possible dirt the blow gun has blown around but not flushed out. If you can regulate your air pressure you can do the final flush with the air pressure set down to 30 psi or as low as it will go and still make the air gun work.
 
i have a cylinder hone. what about using that to clean up the cylinders given i believe the rings are good.

i will take the advice to take off the pan and the side covers and clean and inspect as well as replace the crank seals, might as well replace everything that comes with the full gasket kit.

about checking the main bearings, rod bearings, piston pins, cam bearings; given the engine ran well is it ok to just visually inspect and feel for looseness by wiggling things or is it highly advisable to use plastigauge?

where i am going is that if i am going to have to re-torgue the rods and mains i might as well just take the whole thing apart and check the ring gap and clean em if they are good.
 

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