Hauling a 756 Question

Hauling a 756:

I could have swore I read somewhere NOT to engage the parking brake as the bounce and jerking motion of the flat bed trailer could shift the tractor enough to bust a tooth on a reverse gear.

Anything to this?

Also - any cautions for hauling, tie down points?

All advice is much appreciated.

(quoted from post at 15:25:52 12/03/16) Hauling a 756:

I could have swore I read somewhere NOT to engage the parking brake as the bounce and jerking motion of the flat bed trailer could shift the tractor enough to bust a tooth on a reverse gear.

Anything to this?

Also - any cautions for hauling, tie down points?

All advice is much appreciated.

Click to expand...

If the tractor is properly tied down, it CANNOT move. If it cannot move, there is NO risk of busting a tooth.

I knows it's all proven otherwise by smart folks, but I will not put one in park. I put it in gear and chain it down right. I usually let air out of the tires, chain it, and air up the tires if going far.

That parking lever can be source of issue on those older internationals and can be easily broken with abuse. Dad had a International 1066 back in the 1980's and early 1990's and we never had an issue with it. Tractor was my uncles prior and he never had any issues either. That said we did not abuse it either. Tractor was always stopped and shut off before we engaged it.

If it were me, I would only lock the wheel brakes and chain it down good with the tranny in neutral and no parking brake applied.

Explain how to lock the brakes on a 1066? There are no brake locks that I am aware of, and I don't think they hold without the engine running
anyway. I engage the park lock so it don't roll off the trailer and chain it down tight.

Thanks - got it home.

More later.....

(quoted from post at 20:59:35 12/04/16) Explain how to lock the brakes on a 1066? There are no brake locks that I am aware of, and I don't think they hold without the engine running
anyway. I engage the park lock so it don't roll off the trailer and chain it down tight.

Click to expand...

Well considering I sold Dad's tractor when he died in 1993; it has been a while to say the least. Now that you mention it though I do not remember a brake lock pawl for the brake pedals at all. Only that parking brake lever under the steering wheel column.

If I remember right the brakes do still do work some without the engine running as we had to pull start it many times and I always had some brakes when I was on it for that. Now you absolutely have zero steering without the engine running as the steering was 100% hydrostatic on ours. When it threw a rod through the block in the early 1980's on my uncle 20 miles from home; we had to improvise chain a wide flange tongue to the wide front axle and tow it home that way with another tractor. The wide tongue allowed it to be towed and the front wheels on the dead tractor followed fairly decently automatically due to that tongue. My dad rode the dead tractor while my uncle pulled it home with the JD 730 diesel. My dad was able to use the brakes on the dead tractor to help out some during the tow when needed if IIRC. These were deserted backroads.

Not sure if all 1066 were the same or not, but ours did not have absolutely any type of hydraulic assist on pushing that darned clutch pedal in. It was all I could do as a skinny young boy to push that clutch in. Ours did not have a TA either. 8F and 4R for gears and that was it.

Back to topic though I still would not leave that PB engaged past the initial chain down point just in case the chains loosen up a little while towing. I do not like to leave em in gear either past the intitial chain down. Always heard a little rocking could be hard on gears. Whether it is true or not I have no way of proving.

awaiting the juicy detail's on Bill's new purchase...and more pics too of course.

"juicy detail's" here...
756 Info