Super A Starter short curcuit maybe

scott1953

Member
Yesterday I tried to start my 53 super a. It is still 6 volts, the usual positive ground, been starting and running fine for the 4 years I've had it.

I switched on the ignition, gave it a little choke...all seemed well.... then pulled on the starter rod to engage the starter.

As soon as I engaged the starter, there was a visible spark near the battery positive (ground) terminal and an accompanying electrical spark snapping noise. And that electrical burning smell.

I turned off the ignition, disconnected the battery...said a bad word.

Later I reconnected the battery....noting bad happened, tried the lights...no lights...bravely pulled on the rod to engage the starter...nothing.

As I switched the ignition on and off I did see the ammeter needle move a bit to the left when the ignition was on.

I did see voltage on the negative battery cable at the starter.

Also I am able to turn over the engine by hand crank, but didn't try to start it.

Forgive the long post, but I just wanted to be complete

I'm thinking there is a short in the starter, that blew the fuse for the lights ( looking at the wiring diagram, it seems the fuse is before the light switch). But then why would i not get sparking and burning when trying to engage the starter, unless there is a fuse/fusible link in the starter itself

Any advise is much appreciated.


Scott
 
Scott: I have a 51 Super A. I don't have a fuse like the one you have so I can't say about said fuse. Sometimes the starter on mine used to lock up and I'd have to put in forth gear and rock it back and forth to break loose. First I'd clean the posts to battery and then clean the ends to the cables. Tighten good and then try the rocking back and forth and then try starter. I ended up taking starter off and having it rebuilt. Works fine now. Hope this helps some. Pembroke
 
There is no fuse for the starter ust lites' Now would be a good time to get the starter refreshed thenwhen puttin back on make sure all connections are clean starting at the batt. Sitting around funny things can happen and you just need to make sure everything is up to par. Start with a hy reading of the battery making sure all cells read around 1260.
 
First off no fuses in the start system. But good chance you have a poor connection some place. Or you may have a bad battery cable and a bad cable cannot be seen with your eyes. I would start off by doing 2 things.
#1 have the battery charged then load tested to make sure it is good.
#2 pull the starter off and have it checked.
Most any auto parts store will do both test for free.
#3 clean all battery cable connections in the start circuit.
 
Since you saw sparks at the battery terminal means you have a bad connection. The connection may be good enough to supply current to
the ignition system being that's a low amp draw but it's not going to supply the higher amps to activate the starter. If either of the
battery terminals are warm after trying to start it with the starter means the connection is loose.
 
The visible spark is just like a big arrow pointing at your problem. Wherever it sparked, you have something between a very poor and no connection. If it was at the terminal, clean it up and firmly reconnect it. If it was NEAR the terminal, you have a bad cable.

No doubt you have poor connections throughout the system and they should all be cleaned. But the point of the spark is your immediate problem.
 
Thanks for the ideas. I will do as suggested.

One more question, to start this with the hand crank, I would turn the engine clock wise while standing at the front facing towards the back. Pulling up from the 9 oclock position like I did with the model A ford I once owned.

Again, thanks for your help guys!

Any new thoughts are welcome too.

Scott
 

Update.....taking a close look at the wiring and connections as you all suggest...wow, the battery cable connections were very bad, at the battery, at the ground point and on the starter. Battery not fully charged. I pulled the battery out to take a look at the wiring behind the little instrument panel, looking terrible, lots of rust on most all the connections. Some wires connected with wire nuts.

So I'll clean this up. But two questions

In general, are wire nut connections ok? I thought that was not the way to go in a vehicle. And would it make sense to add a fuse in the main power line that runs from the starter to the ammeter? I have done that in the old Dodge we have, but no one else seems to think its really necessary. But if ever I do get a short for real....couldn't a fuse be a good thing to have. Or a fusible link.

Thanks again for all the replies. I need to spend a little more time on tractor maintenance I see.

Scott
 
Wire nuts noit good on machines that have a lot of vibration like a car truck or tractor.
As for a fuse in the starter circuit it is hard to put one in that has a high enough amp rating to hold up since a start can pull well over 100 amps on a cold start
 

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