So tell me about the Farmall 240 row crop

Well, as it so often happens I'm not done with my first project and another presents itself.
A friend has a 240 row crop, been sitting behind the barn, the block has a crack on the left side. He's not sure if the motor is free.
I've read here where cracked blocks were repaired, can that be done? If not where can I locate a C-123 motor? Is this more than I want to get into?
Thanks guys.
 
The end product of the C super C line of tractors. It has live hydraulics but (I think) trans driven PTO. The engine is
common and pretty bullet proof, but small. Not a powerful tractor. 30 hp on the belt, 27 drawbar. Fast hitch was standard.
Handy small tractor. Jim
 
I picked up a IH 240 this year and have been pretty happy with it as a little worker. The Farmall ones like you got are significantly more rare, and one of the last small row crops. It wasn't really replaced in it's HP range.
 
I read on here a while back about pros and cons of welding/brazing a cracked block. I know its hard to say without seeing it, but how many have done this? Did it work, did you weld or braze? Can a replacement block be found easily?
 
Stitching is a very good option to repair a
freeze crack on a block. Very easy to do as
well, anyone can do it. I did a 6" long
crack on a 770 diesel Oliver block. It took
about 45 minutes, and is an invisible
repair. You cannot see it or evidence of it
at all, and it holds perfectly.
 
You need to remove the head to make sure the block isnt cracked between the two center cycls. If its ok
there the crack behind the carb can be fixed easy. Grind smooth to get clean metal and v the crack some. I
have repaired some used rubber cement that they use installing windsheilds. It has worked well. My mower
engine has been fixed that way 15yrs ago and doesent leak. I also found a B one time same crack had it for
10yrs and never did leak you can rough it some and when dry it is hard to see. Depends on how bad the crack
is. The one on the B was welded but bad job. So i just ground it smooth and v-d out the crack. Both were
done on a warm summer day in the sun to get the block nice and warm in the sun helped cure the cement
faster also.
 
To add to what others have said about the 240, they have more power than a super c . Rake,mow,and several other chores I enjoy a smaller tractor when a large one isn't needed.
 
There are some differences but a C123 out of any of the hundreds of thousands of 100's, 130's, 200's, 230's, C's and Super C's IH made will fit and work fine. Most of the difference in power is up in the head. I would not waste my time repairing the block. A good short block should be easy to find.
 
3 pt was also an option i had one but sold it pretty neat little tractor hard to get on unless you have a helper step different options for hy system also. Mine had no controls for front cycls just control for rear hitch.
 
The C-123 had some major changes to the cooling system from the earlier models. If you try to use an earlier engine, you may run into some big problems when you try to connect to the radiator. I don't know that it can't be done, but beware that it isn't a simple drop-in replacement.
 

Thanks all, Jim, that's why I'm asking about repairing the crack. I'm not wanting to invest in a new to me block, and I've heard of repairs made to engine blocks.
Gene, I think this one has the 3pt hitch..which is a plus.
 

Thanks all, Jim, that's why I'm asking about repairing the crack. I'm not wanting to invest in a new to me block, and I've heard of repairs made to engine blocks.
Gene, I think this one has the 3pt hitch..which is a plus.
 
What's the serial number on your 240? If it's below 65,001, the water pump is in the same location on the lower left front corner of the engine as the Super C.

The upper connection to the radiator is part of the head, and you'll be reusing that from the 240 anyway.

Regardless of serial number that lower radiator connection is in the same location so you could use a Super C engine block. That's really your only hang-up.

Sure blocks can be repaired but when good solid unbroken blocks are easy to find, it's a no-brainer to me. You can pay as much as a good used short block to have the engine repaired, only to have it leak like a sieve or re-crack somewhere down the road.
 
I restored a 1958 Farmall 240 row crop model tractor a couple years ago and the biggest issue concerning it's restoration was finding original parts either NOS or good salvage ones since only slightly more then 3500 Farmall 240's were produced. I believe all 240's Farmall and International Utility models used s/n 65001 and above 123 cu. in. engines. According to the parts catalog one of the easiest identifiable differences between the two blocks (pre 65001 and post 65001) was the addition of an engine oil dipstick on those starting at s/n 65001. I also have a 1965 Farmall 140 which appears to have the same engine as the engine s/n is 110714 where as the engine s/n on the 1958 Farmall 240 is 69631. I know you are wanting to try and repair the original engine block but if that doesn't work out your best match might be a block from a 140 instead of looking backwards at the Super C and 200 models which most likely would have the older style blocks with the cooling system hook-up issues noted by Jim. A radiator for a 240 is another impossible to find item as to my knowledge none are presently being produced and you have to repair what you have or find one in useable salvage condition.
A Farmall 240 is certainly a nice small tractor and a nice addition to my other Farmalls but other then the engine driven hydraulic system is pretty much a Super C with different sheet metal and a model that is rarely seen at a major IHC featured tractor show. My Farmall 240 has the factory 2-point IH fast hitch with two separate remotes which makes it very useable with the 2-point implements I already have, Hal.
 
(quoted from post at 09:37:26 11/22/16). . . I believe all 240's Farmall and International Utility models used s/n 65001 and above 123 cu. in. engines. According to the parts catalog one of the easiest identifiable differences between the two blocks (pre 65001 and post 65001) was the addition of an engine oil dipstick on those starting at s/n 65001. . . .
Yes, engine number 65001 corresponds to 140/240 tractor serial numbers 501. Actually:
I-240 501 got 65017
F-240 501 got 65032
F-140 501 got 65046

Beware that earlier power unit engines are fairly common and usually had an oil dipstick.
 
Barn yard, it's all a little academic at this point, I haven't even seen the tractor other than in pictures. But...if I can repair it myself for the cost of the rubber cement as Gene suggest that's gonna be easiest and cheapest. I'm gonna see if I can get over and look at it first-hand.
Again, thanks everyone for the input.
 
Sorry, I was going off the parts book. The parts book does not differentiate between engine and tractor serial number, and every other reference to a serial number split in an IH parts book I've ever come across refers to the tractor serial, not the engine.
 
The parts books don't always make it clear when they are using an engine number or a tractor serial number. On tpo of that, I have seen a few places where they incorrectly state it is one or the other. Most tractors through the letter series had matching engine/serial numbers so it didn't matter. The M/MD book is one of the big exceptions and it uses engine numbers in the engine sections.

In the combined 200/230/240 book, the engine section lists a lot of part usage as (C-123 501 to 65000) or (C-123 65001 up) and you just sort of have to know those are engine numbers. There is a strong hint up front in the introduction. It says "The Farmall and International 240 tractor engine serial number has the prefix C-123 and begins with No. 65001."

Another hint is the reasonableness test of the number. Once you get past the Super C (whose engines did not carry the C-123 prefix), the only tractor that used the C-123 whose serial numbers passed 65000 was the 140. It only slightly exceeded it during the last year of production. So a reference to a 240 serial number above 65000 isn't meaningful.
 
Well thanks all for the info, guess I wont need it now...I talked to him and learned a fellow from the city showed up yesterday with a pocket of cash and took the 240 home. He's gonna make a pulling tractor out of it... :(

When you snooze you lose...
 

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