jsfarmall

Member
This winter I'm gonna split my cub and do
some clutch work. I'm hoping something is
just out of adjustment but if I have to buy
a clutch I want to be able to order it as
soon as I find out. I know there are alot
of products that are cheap and suck. I'm
leaning towards the kit from Steiners.
Anyone got better kit in mind? Any and all
input is appreciated
 
One bit of advice from experience, no matter where you buy a Cub clutch, don't assume that the fingers come from the factory adjusted to the correct position. Measure before installing, as it's a whole lot less trouble than adjusting through the hand-hole after you've reassembled the tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 21:25:47 10/28/16) One bit of advice from experience, no matter where you buy a Cub clutch, don't assume that the fingers come from the factory adjusted to the correct position. Measure before installing, as it's a whole lot less trouble than adjusting through the hand-hole after you've reassembled the tractor.

Could you explain how you did this before putting the tractor back together? I know this would help others alot. Myself, I've done it through the hand hole and it isn't fun.
 
(quoted from post at 12:45:49 10/28/16)

Could you explain how you did this before putting the tractor back together? I know this would help others alot. Myself, I've done it through the hand hole and it isn't fun.

You want to end up with 1 1/4" between the end of the finger and the face. That's a lot easier to do with the tractor still split!

If you do have to make adjustments through the hand hole, the best tool I've found is the cheap little right-angle screwdriver that Harbor Freight sells for around three dollars.
 
I have an old wiper arm bent at 1.25". Makes it pretty handy. Still not much fun working through the
hand hole though.

On the topic of the pilot bushing, if you do replace it, make sure the shaft goes in nice and isn't too
tight. I just replaced mine in a Cub I was restoring this summer. Didn't try the shaft and when I got
it together, you would push the pedal down and the Cub would keep going. You couldn't get it in gear if
not started in gear. And if you were in a parade or somewhere with the pedal down for much time at all,
it would get warm and start to seize on the shaft making the tractor move like the clutch is fully out.
Not fun.

So size the new bearing once installed to the main shaft prior to putting together. Should be free
fitting with a couple thous clearance. A flap sander will enlarge it slowly if needed.
 
The release fingers need to be uniform in height to make sure the pressure plat releases evenly as it is pulled back from "pinching" the Driven disk. Two
important things: The adjustment must be done when the disk is installed and the Pressure plate is in its "applied" (clutch pedal not pushed at all, or engine
and clutch on a stand and bolts tight on the pressure plate. this puts the pivot points and levers in their "running position". Pushing on each lever to remove
any freedom of motion with hand finger pressure assures the measurement is only about the applied height of the finger. Measured from the adjustment on the
lever tip, to the clutch disk. this must be made as perpendicular as possible to assure accurate measurement. (a caliper with depth extension is needed.
That said, the manufacturer or rebuilder should have bade this adjustment on a jig or fixture when it was made or rebuilt. I have never seen an adjustable
finger clutch that needed adjustment when out of the box.. I have seen used PPs tha tneeded adjustment when reused. Jim
 

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