New Member International 300 Utility

faroutliving

New User
Hello,
I've been looking for that perfect general purpose tractor for chores around here for several years and using this web site as references. Thanks for your collective knowledge! This summer I decided I needed to loosen my requirements and stop looking for that do-all tractor for cheap. :)

Funny thing is I decided top priority for around here was something that could turn an auger. Hard gumbo soil and drought conditions have slowed our fencing/building to a crawl. What I found was a tractor that had everything _but_ PTO. Still, way too good of a deal to pass up. I have more time than money (and little of either) so a fixer-upper with great potential was perfect. No tractor repair experience, but plenty of vehicle. Just enough to be dangerous I suppose.

Lots of things wrong with this 300U, but nothing that can't be cured I hope. Expect to see plenty of questions!

These are the photos the previous owner sent me. More to come!

Deron

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What I know so far (not run in 3+ years and stored outside):
International 300 Utility - unknown serial converted to 12V. Steering hose leaks, Positive battery cable broken. Gas and coolant bone dry. Hopefully coolant did not rupture anything in our cold weather and drain out... Fan belts (alternator and loader hydraulic pump) are dry, loose and cracked.
Flat tires, but now holding air. One rear missing valve. Snow chains.
Davis 102 E Loader with snow and dirt bucket. Missing pin, bushing missing and rounded out, missing bucket cylinder.
Numerous hoses are pretty questionable. Some in great shape.
6' blade. Missing angle pin.
Steering wheel and seat need replacing.
Just surface rust on tractor, nothing serious at all.
3pt hitch(? fast hitch also? Not familiar with this vernacular)

So my first question of many:
I have the owners and parts manual ordered from here and on the way, but before they arrive I'd like to try and fire it up and see what else is wrong. I see the oil dipstick on the right hand side (dirty but full), and up and to the right is a fill tube. I presume this is for oil despite close proximity to what I presume is the hydraulic pump? Where do I check and fill hydraulic fluid for steering/3-pt (and I presume transmission as well).

Any other general steps/advice before I first fire it up? Hate to start off on the wrong foot!

Thanks!
 
Sounds like it has sat a long time. I would fill the cylinder with ATF and let ti sit 24-48 hours then pull the plugs back out and spin it over to clear the ATF out. Be sure to not mix up the plug wires or your going to have fun getting ti to start and always put he plugs back in to keep dirt etc out of the engine
 
I was going to suggest that if you were looking for that "all around" tractor then you still have not found it. You have to have a front loader. But then I see you have a loader, but it is on a tractor that really does not handle loaders well. Given that it has the loader on it already, you may want to check out the steering to see if it has been abused. Don't get me wrong, really like the 300U. I own one and it is my favorite tractor for pulling the 500 gallon boom sprayer. Seat is comfy and it is close to the crop...runs right down 30" rows. Does a great job. Never had a loader on it and never will. I have another tractor with a loader.
 
The transmission oil and hydraulic oil is separate on the 300 utility. You can check the hydraulic oil by lifting up the seat cushion. Under the cushion you will find a plug that also has a dip stick on it. I believe the transmission has a plug on the side to check the oil level. But I would have to check my manual to give you the exact location of the plug. In addition, the PS gear box has a plug to check the gear oil in it. This plug is near the battery on the left side of the tractor. I can post a picture of that plug. Lots of times the oil leaks out of the gear box because the owner didn't know of the check plug and that part of the PS has gear oil in it. Both the transmission and hydraulic system should have Hy-tran oil. But the PS gear box gets 80/90 weight oil. And yes, the PS does use the hydraulic system hy-tran oil for the power assist. There is a flow divider valve down by the right side of the seat for this function. I have a 300 utility with a factory loader and factory PS that my dad bought used in 1966. It now has 3300 actual hours. We have not had any major problems with it. Al
 
No PTO, all four tires flat, and sitting for years (decades?). Unless its being sold for near scrap price I'd pass unless you are truly set on spending a lot of time and money getting it back to running condition. You'll find out real quick how much you miss the PTO when you don't have one.


Is the engine locked up?
 
I do not see a TA handle. If there is no PTO, it may be only possible to put a transmission driven PTO on the tractro (Non_live, meaning the main clutch
is used to start and stop the PTO. Much less desirable than if it had a Live PTO.. But tell us the full serial number and letters behind them and we may
be able to shed light on the issue. Jim
 
Deron,
Welcome to the utility club, I for one think they are the very best tractor built in this size, just check out the
weight (4400#!!!) in the Nebraska test and compare it to other tractors in the same horsepower category.
It looks to me like there is a front pulley driven pump, in which case you need to confirm whether it is using the original reservoir under the seat, or has its own reservoir. There are several parts in the photo that raise questions (not bad, just questions) for me. For instance;

The steering wheel is not original to the 300, but rather a slightly later 350, which makes me question whether it has already had the ps box exchanged. That may be a good thing, as this particular model of tractor when equipped with a loader was notorious for failing gearboxes, the rarity of which is only exceeded by the price of same. If you intend to use the loader, I would recommend that you go with the aftermarket steering system replacement, it uses a charlynn type hydraulic torque generator.

If I am right about the front pump, then it has two pumps (The aluminum one clearly visible in the picture, just in front of the distributor is oem) Why? Is one or the other toast? The oem pump is readily available, but pretty spendy. There is a mesh strainer in the reservoir (under the seat).

I see a LOT of utilities repainted with the white grill, wheels, and panel on the side hoods, but a lot of them are not original. As Janicholson says, get the #s and much will be revealed.

If you get a chance to look at the tractor again, look above and behind the carburetor (you will need a flashlight) There is a sheet metal water jacket cover that runs almost the length of the block. This may be where the water escaped, and if so, you will know it when you see it.

Good luck! jeff
 
I see you got a couple of wishy wash replys. The 300U is one of the
most handy tractors you could want. SAVE this tractor. Going to cost
some bucks but in the end you will be glad you did. Fellow 300 owner.
Does it have power steering? If it does look at the picture where to
find a secret oil plug on the unit. Remove the little plug and squirt
in about a cup of 90wt oil. The rack in the power unit gets chewed up
if not oiled and the costs are crazy. Take you five minutes. I will
repost with the picture. I
 


OK here are the photos. I think it is a 3/8 plug and is right in front
of the battery. The second photo is backed off just a little further
back. PLEASE oil it as soon as possible. Repairs will cost more than
the whole blasted tractor! Blast I hate this. The photos were
taken vertical so turn your computer clockwise. Most all photos now I
have been shooting horizontal.
a240986.jpg

a240987.jpg

a240987.jpg

a240987.jpg

a240987.jpg
 
Thanks everyone! Let me make it clear, this tractor is mine now. I'm hear to make it functional! I appreciate all the posts. Pulled it on to a trailer and brought it home, and 4 days later the tires are still holding air.

Old: Thank for the advice! I had some ATF sitting around so I'll let it soak a bit. So how do I turn the engine over by hand?

Dave H (MI) & dhermesc: Thanks for the concern. Didn't expect this to be a do all tractor, and I'm deep in the black on this so don't worry. If all it ever does is pull I'll be thrilled.

AJB-830: Thanks Al for the hydraulic check/fill locations and info on the steering. I'll check that in the morning. If you happen to stumble on the check/fill locations for the transmission I would appreciate it.

Janicholson: Jim, the only serial number plate I found was for the loader. I saw the post on this board a while ago about only some incarnations can have IPTO/PTO added and I bought it assuming it would not be possible. Of course, I still have hope even if it is just PTO :) Is there some photos I can take that might make it clear or some other way to determine?

Rustmonger: Jeff, it may not be what I was looking for but I am stoked. Wife says keep looking for the tractor with a PTO so what could be better :) I keep finding little things that make me smile.

I'll try and take a better picture of the steering. Is there a specific aftermarket steering system replacement you recommend or is there only one? The steering wheel itself needs to be replaced. Can't touch it without looking like you just spent the day in the coal mine.

Yes, there are two pumps. The loader has its own, and that reservoir is in the left hand frame of the loader. I am under the impression that both pumps are good, but who can say. The mesh strainer in the reservoir requires I lift that top cover that the seat sits on, correct? How heavy/hard is that?

I'll try filling the radiator tomorrow. Run some water through it first and check for leaks.

jeffcat: Other than rocking the steering left and right to verify both wheels move, this thing has not moved in a good long while. I appreciate the warning about keeping the gear box oiled and the photos are a much welcomed.

Thanks again!
 

Tractor serial number plate is located on clutch housing near the engine oil filter. Can be hard to see on a utility with hydraulic tubes and other stuff close. If paint is gone you will just find stamped in numbers and letters. Need all numbers and letters to see how tractor was originally equipped.
 
It has a traction control type Fast-Hitch. Although it could be put on a 300U, it was usually found on the 350U, but not the 300U. Maybe the hood (or just the emblems) has migrated from a different tractor.

If the serial number plate can't be found or can't be read, need to look for other clues like date codes or C-XXX cast into the engine block.
 
Ok, I was looking on the left side (well, what I consider the left side) because of a different topic post I saw before. I found what is probably the placard on the right side but it was hidden under a layer of grunge. Once I washed that off all I get is red :-(whoever painted the tractor in the past painted right over it. Looks like someone else tried to scratch off the red only to realize that they are probably scratching off the print as well...

The previous owner (not the one who painted or anything else), gave me a I&T shop manual. Inside is written "361 937 R91 - C65" and the words "International" "Melrose" and what looks like "PKW KS" but I can't be sure. The P could be D, and it could be one or two words.

Here is a photo of the plate. You can just make out 29 and a J. I can see the impression of a few other numbers. I tried to take a rubbing of it, but between the angle and everything else I can't get as much detail as I can read directly. I'll try taking a few more photos throughout the day to see if changes in the sun's angle doesn't cast a little more light on the situation.

I300U_Serial_Full_2016-10-27.jpg
 
Definitely a power steering gear, and jeffcat's counsel to add lubricant is spot on. Most of the ps units on these tractors I have seen are "Self draining", and you will need to stay with it. I usually check at least twice a year, and have one of those black long snoot funnels I bent the tube on (with a hair dryer) so that I can get in there. Any lubricant is better than dry.

The "J" stands for Rockford clutch.
You may get a lot of advice on the best way to clean the plate without scratching, so take what I say with a pinch of salt,...
I start off with a paper towel soaked in Naptha, just in case the previous guy used some sort of paint that Naptha will cut. Never had it happen, but hey, I can dream. Next I rub the plate with acetone, for same reason. About a third of the time, acetone will lift the paint without dissolving the underlying factory plate paint. When acetone doesn't work, I call in the big guns- spray type carburetor cleaner. Be warned, If for some reason you care, this will take off both the label paint and the paint of the surrounding tractor.

When you get a chance, take another picture from the rear of the tractor down toward where the pto should be. I say this because if someone at some time added a PTO, it wouldn't show up on the data plate. Good luck, jeff
 

Left and right is if you were sitting on the seat. Some info mistakenly says serial plates are on the left for those tractors. If J is the only letter on plate it's a bare bones tractor and the only PTO that can maybe be installed without other work is a transmission driven one. It stops whenever the clutch is disengaged or wheels stop rolling. J means it was equipped with a Rockford brand clutch. Serial number should all be to left of J in picture.
Just going by memory I think the clutch housing is for a 300. Looks like the casting ends in R4. Think they were to R5 when 350 tractors started. Don't trust memory a 100% sometimes so won't say for sure.
 
You're on the right track. Get that serial number and several casting codes from different parts of the tractor and we'll have this thing ID'ed in no time! They are a decent little tractor for the price. I would much rather have a IH 300-U than an 8-N Ford.!!!!
 
Ok did some wiping with acetone and while I don't think there is any original to still see I think it helped by cleaning up the surface and leaving the impression a bit more dirty. To me it looks like serial number is 28954 J.

For casting codes, the photos didn't turn out so well. I'll try again in the morning. The rear photos are ok. Would it help to take off that rear panel? Even a live PTO would be a plus!

Today I got a chance to fill the radiator and change the oil (dirty, but no obvious metal flakes but of course it has been sitting they could be glued to the bottom somewhere!). No coolant loss, and it didn't show up in the oil. Drained out the ATF, replaced the battery cable, and threw on a fresh battery. Turned over just fine! Tomorrow I'm working on the fuel system and putting in the new spark plugs. Oh, and check transmission fluid levels. Moment of truth is close at hand!

Thanks again,
Deron

I300U_Serial_2016-10-271.jpg


I300U_Rear_2016-10-27.jpg
I300U_Rear_Closesup_2016-10-27.jpg
 
With no "S" before the J it is not set up for a Independent PTO or TA. so as pointed out it will probably accept a transmission driven PTO. But finding that attachment might be a problem in
that few were probably made that bolt to the housing designed for the IPTO. (just a guess) Jim
 
(quoted from post at 18:05:55 10/26/16)
Does it have power steering? If it does look at the picture where to find a secret oil plug on the unit. Remove the little plug and squirt in about a cup of 90wt oil.
Found and done, but I put more than a cup in. It now appears to be dripping out from around the gasket between the side cover on the right hand side near the top. It is the vertical joint between the larger left hand side and the right hand side. Is it because I put too much in and there is some overflow hole I can't see or do I need to look into replacing the gasket? I did find one bolt that was finger tight at best between the two. Couldn't reach them all...

Thanks,
Deron
 
(quoted from post at 06:18:31 10/28/16)
With no "S" before the J it is not set up for a Independent PTO or TA. so as pointed out it will probably accept a transmission driven PTO. But finding that attachment might be a problem in that few were probably made that bolt to the housing designed for the IPTO. (just a guess) Jim
Should I remove that back cover and get some photos to make sure the inner shaft is there? Near as I can tell from the I&T manual, that shaft will be different between iPTO and PTO if it exists at all.

What would you call the unit I would be looking for? I see the PTO has about 7 parts. Should I just be looking on eBay for those parts and assemble the unit or ??

And should I start new topics for individual problems like this? Not sure what forum etiquette is here...

Deron
 
I went ahead and removed the rear cover. Needed it anyway, brown thick goopy sludge and a layer of water(?) came pouring out. PTO shaft has teeth on the outside and smooth bore dead-end hole in the middle of the shaft.

I300U_Rear_Cavity_2016-10-29.jpg
I300U_PTO_Countershaft_Closeup_2016-10-29.jpg


Now this is the next mystery. Top rear left side shows a broken bit of casting, and bracket with a hole, and some kind of spring steel indexer that goes nowhere. The broken end was painted over a long time ago. Down underneath that is some kind of shaft and corner bracket.

Deron

I300U_Rear_Left_2016-10-29.jpg

I300U_Bottom_Rear_Left_2016-10-29.jpg
I300U_Bottom_Left_Under_2016-10-29.jpg
 
Your broken casting, missing pieces thing is a missing traction control lever. Here is a picture that shows the missing lever (although not identical as it is a different model tractor). For what you want the tractor for, forget about it.

I borrowed this picture from an old post on this site.

c3461.jpg
 
Shaft is for what was called a transmission driven PTO. Turns whenever transmission counter shaft turns.
 
(quoted from post at 04:00:29 10/30/16) Shaft is for what was called a transmission driven PTO. Turns whenever transmission counter shaft turns.

I think the concern Jim had is that the rear has a 4-bolt pattern, but the transmission driven PTO housing has a 3-bolt pattern.

I can get just about anything machined up, but I wonder which would be easier. What happens if I bolt on an IPTO housing? I realize it will still be transmission driven, but what function does that (much more complex) IPTO housing do?

The PTO is just a hope. As I said, I don't expect this to turn a PTO. I bought it because it was too good of deal to pass up and has been a great stress reliever on a very stress full work week. The carb needs to be rebuilt, and I should be under power! Of course, still several items before I am under way, and more if I want that bucket to move. Wife wants a hay ride before Thanksgiving...
 

Not impossible to find a transmission PTO for the tractor. Probably more were used on a 300 U than any other model of 100 series. Row crop will work also.
Planet PTO shafts won't match up to countershaft and it would turn slower RPM if driven from countershaft.
 
I stopped by the local tractor junk yard to see if he had any parts I might need especially the PTO assembly. He has a number of 300 and 350 carcasses, and most had TA and iPTO. Said he would sell me the Clutch/TA housing and iPTO assembly for about $7-800. He said it would take 2-3 hours to strip it out and would help. That would give me some experience to help do the swap on my end but is that even possible and how big of a job is that?

He had one utility with PTO assembly I need, but he wanted $1200 for it. It comes with a tractor attached. We got interrupted by another set of customers and didn't get to go over it. My quick glance impression was it was not in nearly as good a shape as mine. Really rough. Didn't even get a chance to find out any details on what is or is not wrong with it. Obviously I would simply scavenge the part off to begin with since I already have a known entity here...

In the scheme of things, having a TA and IPTO is more interesting but the time involved seems pretty big. Any advice?

Deron
 
Well,
There are plenty of folks out there who get by just fine without a T/A. As to the PTO, only you can answer that one. I looked on the big auction site, and there is a transmission driven PTO with a shaft up for sale, so they are out there.
As you start adding variables, it gets to be a very personal and specific set of questions, for instance;
I like to pull a finish mower with my 300U, it brings me a lot of smiles. Several years ago, the T/A started slipping in low and I had to quit using the T/A. That particular tractor only mows, nothing else. Although it was really handy to be able to shift into low range when I was turning a row, I wouldn't dream of splitting it just to fix the T/A. On the other hand, I have a 350U that I use for blade work. The T/A is super handy because of my incompetence with a blade. Looking backwards at the blade, looking forward where I am going, steering, just too many things happening at once for my feeble brain. If the T/A were slipping in that guy, I would be motivated to fix it pretty quick. I am aware that some guys have to get a really heavy load moving in T/A low, like a hay wagon, but I can't imagine going to that kind of expense just to get one load moving. If you do it six times a day year round, well, better get started on splitting that baby!

Good luck! jeff
 
Just a simple follow up. I finally got the carb fully rebuilt despite the "instructions". Put it on yesterday and while being buzzed by B1 bombers, I got it running! Runs well, but a few small issues still to resolve that I will post in other threads. I thought I would sort of cap this thread with a happy ending :)

Thanks for all the advice!
Deron
 
I have a 300U with no TA or live pto. Someone has taken a pto for a H, made a plate to bolt on transmission housing and bolted pto to it. It works fine.
 

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