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1936 F30 rebuild begun

N

Nebraska Kirk

Well-known Member
I hauled home this 1936 F30 a few weeks ago with the intention of using it for parts to rebuild another '36 F30 I have. The parts tractor ended up being in better condition than the one I intended on rebuilding, so I decided to work on this one and use the other for parts! As an added bonus, this F30 has a PTO extension and IHC foot brakes too. 8)

c51380_lrg.jpg


Crankshaft with new main bearings installed.
c51382_lrg.jpg


Pulling the crankshaft into the block after installing new main bearings.
c51379_lrg.jpg

Machining the front cover to accept a modern oil seal to replace the original felt seal.
c51381_lrg.jpg
 
nice, i like the idea of maching the cover for a proper seal. im having no luck with the front seal on my w-40 so i may do that also.
 
Hello Kirk,

Nice F-30!!

That's a great idea machining the front cover to take
a modern seal. Do you have plans for the rear seal
as well, this one seems like the difficult one to install
without issue.

Thanks,
Brian
 
Brian,

Yes, I am going to use a modern seal on the rear of the crankshaft too. I found one that has the correct 4.5" inside diameter to fit over the flywheel, the outside diameter is a little larger than the bore in the seal retainer, so I will have to put that in my mill and enlarge it a little.
 
Kirk, isn't the '36 the one that is a transition on the steering cap from duckbill to castellated? in other words, not the elongated duck bill, but not the one with the bosses. Basically round and smooth.
 
Tom, In early November of 1934 beginning with serial number 7032, the duckbill steering was changed to the worm gear steering with the smooth top cap. Then in January of 1936 the cap was changed to the "castellated" style.
 
Thanks for the specific dates. I knew somewhere around 1936 +/- the "smooth" one was in play. Is yours an early one? I had an F30 that had the smooth one (needs restored) Sold it to Tom Kelly, and he is now working on the restoration.
 
This F30 was made in May of 1936. I also have a 1935 F30 with the smooth top steering cap as well as a 1934 F30 Duckbill NT 8)
 
Freshly bored sleeves installed with larger pistons

c51392_lrg.jpg


Lower end all done and ready to install the oil pan.

c51393_lrg.jpg


Flywheel and clutch installed. Flywheel and pressure place were surface ground and put together with a NOS clutch disc. Pressure plate is heavy-duty too with extra springs inside of the standard springs.
c51394_lrg.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:04:49 03/29/16) what did you use for pistons ? I have a pressure plate that has extra springs inside the regular ones and it is a hard pushing son of a gun .
Click to expand...

I used McCormick-Deering 15-30 pistons.
 
I finally had a few days recently to get back to working on this project. I got the engine bolted down and connected to the transmission and the Fuel tank mounted and hooked up. The next thing is the radiator, I have it all taken apart and cleaned up. I had to braze a freeze crack in the bottom tank, but now I think I can put it back together and test it for leaks.
There are still a few other little things that need doing as well as some other larger things, but with a day here or a few hours there, it will soon be done! Probably not before Thanksgiving, but certainly before Christmas!!
 
I have been able to spend the past couple of days working on this F30 again, I have not gotten a lot done, but every little bit gets me that much closer to being done! And then I can begin on the next project, rebuilding another F30 engine 8) but that will be for a friend's tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 19:34:00 01/31/17) Lookin' good Kirk. Remember to have the camera running on the first start up! LOL.
Click to expand...

I belted it up to my 1935 F30 this afternoon to try and get it started. The camera was rolling and the engine would pop and sputter some, but would not take off on it's own.... :(
 
(quoted from post at 05:08:05 02/24/17) Carb issues?
Click to expand...

That is the only thing I can think of. I rebuilt the carb, but it is untested, I am thinking I will try it out on the 1935 F30 that I KNOW runs and see what happens.
 
I tried out the carb on the '35 F30 and sure enough, it would not run. I had a spare rebuilt carb on the shelf and I tried it out on the running F30 and it worked just fine, so I put it on the '36 F30. I belted it up to my Farmall 400 and turned the engine over with mag and gas off. Let it wear in for a little to check oil pressure and then turned on the mag and the gas. It did not take long before it sprang to life with a throaty ROAR!!!

I got it all on video too!! 8) 8) which will be posted tomorrow hopefully!
 
Good for you! So, the old girl had to "run in" a wee bit. I have seen that before on some engines I have worked on. Looking forward to the vid! Well played! Well done.
 
Well done! Gotta love that deep throaty sound. Only thing that will make it better is the 90 degree exhaust elbow! Well, that and a set of 3 bottom Little Genius plow in a field of bean stubble in 3rd!
 
3-14, I have a 4-14 slat bottom that I could try for the fun of it too. :lol:

Maybe you can help me out, Tom. The governor is not quite right. Above about half-throttle it surges badly. I installed the IH field-change conversion variable-speed governor on it, everything looked good as far as I could tell and I have the linkage between it and the carb adjusted like it should. What would cause it to surge like that? Worn linkage or bushings?
 
[I would check the bushings first. Also, how wobbly are the weights? Sometimes the pivots are worn and the weights "hang up" and make it jump all over the place.

Also, are you sure you have the spring tension set correctly?
 
I did not mess with the spring tension or even check it, I guess I should have..... I put new undersize bushings in the governor housing and turned down the worn shaft to be a nice close fit in the bushings. The weight holes and pivot pins are worn some and I thought they would be ok, but I guess not and I will have to redo that to see if it solves the 'hunting'.
 
Kirk, they may be fine, but those are things that I have run into. Since you redid the bushings, no need to check there. Make sure the weights are moving freely and not hanging up. Also, check that spring tension. If those don't produce a result, we can dig deeper. You can certainly check the throttle linkages, egg shaped pivot holes anywhere along that linkage setup can cause "hunting".
 
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