Freeze crack on block. Farmall 230 (C-123)

Jaebrav81 · Oct 11, 2016

Ok guys I took the head off my 230 because when I topped the fluid off I noticed fluid pumping out of my manifold when I was turning it over. It was coolant so I thought the head gasket was blown maybe. So I tore it open and found the head to be cracked, not a big deal because I have another one.

But the block has a crack. It's not external and it is only at the coolant ports. It goes to the cylinder sleeve, but the sleeve isn't cracked.

Here is a picture link:

http://imgur.com/SMCoT5f

Short of getting a new block, I've seen where people have had success with options such as extreme heat J.B. Weld in this case and worked I to the crack the best they could and then cleaned it up and let the weld and new head gasket do the job and keep coolant out of the cylinders.

I'm pretty sure the coolant came from the head portion of the crack, so I think that a good clean head gasket would do the trick with a new head, but I want to be sure. Any suggestions short of getting this welded or stitched? Something I can do in my backyard since I'm pretty much broke now lol

Janicholson · Oct 11, 2016

If the block crack does not go between the oil containing areas and the coolant containing areas, it will ne OK. I cant assure you from here. Jim

warrenWoodrow · Oct 11, 2016

I will get criticized for this but I will throw it out there anyway . K & W fiberlock [ I think name is correct ?? ] is a product I used to stop a heater core leak. It has held two years on an aluminum heater core. I have a mechanic friend who tells me it has sealed a cracked block on a dump truck for several years. I am not advocating or promoting, I just know it is good stuff . No guarante, just something to consider with little to lose or risk.

Jaebrav81 · Oct 11, 2016

(quoted from post at 21:19:05 10/11/16) I will get criticized for this but I will throw it out there anyway . K & W fiberlock [ I think name is correct ?? ] is a product I used to stop a heater core leak. It has held two years on an aluminum heater core. I have a mechanic friend who tells me it has sealed a cracked block on a dump truck for several years. I am not advocating or promoting, I just know it is good stuff . No guarante, just something to consider with little to lose or risk.

I will definitely try it. I know if I had tried this with the nad head the engine would have seized as coolant got into the chamber before it could heat up to make any kind of bond. If the new head keeps the coolant from seeping I'll throw that in there. Anything is better than paying for a new block at this point. So I'm open to anything! Thank you both for the replies.

PretendFarmer · Oct 12, 2016

With that said, I've seen C-123 blocks go cheap. I had the opportunity to pick one up for $150 but passed on it because I knew it would sit in my yard forever.

kopeck · Oct 12, 2016

I had a C113 block that was cracked just like that.

Take a close look a the webbing, mine was cracked as well. I figured since the block is the tractor frame I was just as well to find another block.

Also, check the out side of the water jacket, they tend to crack there too.

K

warrenWoodrow · Oct 12, 2016

If you try the K%W please be sure to follow directions on the container. You cannot just pour it into existing coolant as I think you have to drain and start from scratch. I think I remember that there are specific instructions as to how to get a good seal.

Jaebrav81 · Oct 12, 2016

(quoted from post at 21:36:14 10/12/16) If you try the K%W please be sure to follow directions on the container. You cannot just pour it into existing coolant as I think you have to drain and start from scratch. I think I remember that there are specific instructions as to how to get a good seal.

Yeah, I have the entire block and radiator drained. I'm waitinf for my head to come back from the shop from being shaved. I haven't gotten that yet, but have ordered it and waiting for it. Does it need heat to activate? And if it is to where I could cap the inlet and outlet of the block and pour this in and let it sit I could do tgat when I get the head back on. I mean pour it I to the chamber's then get some coolant in the block then pop the head on and run it to get warm without circulation, or does it need circulation like Bars leaks or things like that?

Sorry about the questions. Just want to do the best I can with the little money I have. Machine shop wanted over $800 to fix the old head cracks, but I got a lile new head for under $200 so it doesn't make sense to fix the head. But this block has me worried. The cracks don't look as bad as most I've seen from the era, so maybe it'll work out well.

Jaebrav81 · Oct 13, 2016

OK guys, quick question.

On my block, it looks like the coolant ports are on the exhaust side of the block with one port at the beginning and end of the block, while the oil return ports are on the opposite side. Since there was no coolant in my oil when I drained it and only on the surface of the cylinder head, where the head was also cracked, does this seem like good news?

I know I'm being a worry wort about this and I'm sorry. Tomorrow the last part comes in, Saturday I'm installing and firing up with fingers crossed.

WellWorn · Oct 15, 2016

I have a Super A C113 that is far worse than that, and has been a working tractor for me for about 8 years. It was "fixed" before I got it, and I didn't discover the fix until the bondo on the side of the block started leaking antifreeze and the head gasket started leaking. Pulled the head to discover a pair of parallel cracks between cyls 2-3 worse than yours some former fixer attempted to braze, then filed 'flat'. The freeze crack on the carb side of the block runs from front corner to back corner, also stich brazed. I cleaned it up well, put on JB Weld, and after a week of cure, 'popped' it when I torqued the head to the updated 85# specs. Should have stuck with 65# (or maybe 70# tops) for the compromised block. The resulting cracked JB side leak got patched with silicone and has lasted a few years, but recently took up leaking again. The head gasket is still holding.

All that said, it still starts and runs fine - it has other issues that have made this summer it's last working season. I wouldn't worry about yours, though I would recommend not torquing the head to a full 85# as it will cause further block distortion and stresses. Others may have suggestions that have worked for them. As always, free advice is worth exactly what you pay for it, and "YAMMV"

Well Worn

Jaebrav81 · Oct 15, 2016

(quoted from post at 10:46:24 10/15/16) I have a Super A C113 that is far worse than that, and has been a working tractor for me for about 8 years. It was "fixed" before I got it, and I didn't discover the fix until the bondo on the side of the block started leaking antifreeze and the head gasket started leaking. Pulled the head to discover a pair of parallel cracks between cyls 2-3 worse than yours some former fixer attempted to braze, then filed 'flat'. The freeze crack on the carb side of the block runs from front corner to back corner, also stich brazed. I cleaned it up well, put on JB Weld, and after a week of cure, 'popped' it when I torqued the head to the updated 85# specs. Should have stuck with 65# (or maybe 70# tops) for the compromised block. The resulting cracked JB side leak got patched with silicone and has lasted a few years, but recently took up leaking again. The head gasket is still holding.

All that said, it still starts and runs fine - it has other issues that have made this summer it's last working season. I wouldn't worry about yours, though I would recommend not torquing the head to a full 85# as it will cause further block distortion and stresses. Others may have suggestions that have worked for them. As always, free advice is worth exactly what you pay for it, and "YAMMV"

Well Worn

Thank you!

Well as of about an hour ago I got it all back together and so far so good. I'm having trouble with the tractor under a load bow and wanting to die on me randomly. I need to gap the valves, but do you think I also need to adjust my timing? I had to disconnect the governor too, but just the lever. Could I have messed that up? It doesn't want to compensate when under a load, and turning up the throttle doesn't make it do anything. So now I've moved on to these problems lol

But yes, you are right. I think I'm all good and don't have to bite into my bank account to get a new engine so I'm tickled to death. Thank you all guess.

Freeze crack on block. Farmall 230 (C-123)

Jaebrav81

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Janicholson

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kopeck

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Jaebrav81

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WellWorn

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