WD-6 Update

caseman-d · Oct 9, 2016

Been trying in my spare time to work on my WD-6. Engine still does not turn completely over. When it is in the locked position I can still get a little play out of #2 valves but think it's intake pushrod is tight. Then #4 exhaust pushrod is tight. Pulled the plugs and sprayed a Lawson penatrent into the cylinders. When it stops it stops, no slow tighting, just solid. It's about ready to go outside. Didn't want to have to pull the head.
caseman-d

Janicholson · Oct 9, 2016

With the valve cover off you can open each valve using a hook under the pushrod side (like a C shaped metal clip) with a large screw driver as a lever in the direction of the valve. make sure to hold the pushrod so it stays in alignment. each should be easy to open this way. If one will not move you have found the issue. If they all move, it is a different issue. Jim

caseman-d · Oct 9, 2016

#2 valves will push down a little before stopping, but forgot to check pushrod.
caseman-d

rustred · Oct 10, 2016

to get lube in the cyl's u need it set on gas so the starting valves are open. then blow the lube in with a syphoning gun. to see which valves are stuck just tap each rocker arm over the valve stem and the stuck ones wont snap back. it is not common for those valves to stick on a diesel. saw many stick on the gas engine though. it is also possible you have rust on a cyl. if it wont turn completely over. turning the engine over with a stuck valve will at most times bend the push rod, or it can even break the rocker but have never seen that happen on these.

Janicholson · Oct 10, 2016

If a piston is up on or near TDC, valves will not open. If they move at all in the guide, I would call them not stuck. The starting valves could be stuck. Have you looked under the starting cam to see if they are free, or pushed down when they should not be. They all open at the same time, so none should be down, or all should be down (and the cam should be pointing so its starting lobes are pointed down when the starting valves are open. Jim

caseman-d · Oct 11, 2016

When not in the stuck position all valves are movable. When in the stuck position #2 exhaust valve will move about 1/16". The intake valve will not move at all and the push rod it tight. Push rod that was tight on the #4 exhaust valve the valve does have play in it. I do have the engine on the gas start side. I thought I would pull tight push rod and see if it will turn more.
Thanks
caseman-d

BarnyardEngineering · Oct 11, 2016

Sounds like maybe a foreign object in the cylinder. Is there any way to get a borescope in there to visually check?

Janicholson · Oct 11, 2016

Pulling an injector assembly could help "see" what is going on. Jim

rustred · Oct 12, 2016

when its in the stuck position , put yourself a mark on the front pully . then work it back and forth gently with starter removed using a cat bar on ring gear.this way you can see if your gaining on the situation. i had one do the same thing. it got rain in a cyl. from a bad muffler. i just worked it back and forth with lube and then she turned over. it takes very little rust on a cyl. to stop a piston moving. runs good now.
removing injectors will show nothing as the hole is only the size of a pensil. can lube cyl's this way also. but injectors not easy to remove most times.

DanMD · Oct 12, 2016

If you can get the injector out, they have flexible boroscopes that are lighted and work perfect for this application. I did this on my SMD.

Dan

WD-6 Update

caseman-d

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Janicholson

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caseman-d

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rustred

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Janicholson

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caseman-d

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BarnyardEngineering

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Janicholson

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rustred

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DanMD

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