Farmall regular seizing up

505regular

New User
I have a 1929 ragular that I cannot get running right but the biggest problem/concern is that I have essentially survived 2 lightning strike being that the engine has seized on me twice! Both times I put some mystery oil in the cylinders overnight and it will turn again. Both times it was running (rough) and just immediately stopped and would not turn at all. There is oil in the motor and I can see oil in the "baths" for the rod bearings. I'm not showing little to no oil pressure. I thought the cylinders got their oiling from splashing, is that not the case? Would love any insight
 
If it has had a recent overhaul or piston work, a likely problem is ring gap. If even one ring has too small of a gap, the heat of running will lock it up in very short order. It usually does not cause destruction unless it is repeated many times, or is running hard and scores the cylinder. If you pull the pan and the rods and mains look good, and have clearance, I would suggest that as the next step. It is tough to assess the failed piston because it frees up when cool. Jim
 
a little more info would get you better answers , like what all was done to the engine. Those run low pressure , as long as it is keeping the splash trays full its most likely ok. I agree ring gap likely an issue, did you check it ? Were the ring grooves cleaned on the pistons ? Did you check piston clearance ? Any new parts, like valve guides . If it sticks then frees up I would think piston or rings has to be most likely cause as piston absorbs heat and expands pretty quickly after startup. Other parts grow but not as fast. Rod caps on correct direction so they scoop oil as engine turns?
 
I just bought this tractor used about a year ago and know nothing of its past. The guy used to drive it around his yard frequently. The first time it locked up was on the trailer when I got home. I was so disappointed. Then I got it free with mystery oil and drove it around for a few minutes and it stayed parked for about 7-8 months until I tried it again. It ran for about 5 minutes fine on sat then on Sunday I started it a couple times and it locked up again. It's freed up now again and starts just fine but I'm afraid to do anything.
 
Along with the other replies, check to be sure there is enough shim on the connecting rod bearings. If they are not shimmed correctly, with enough running clearance, if they get warm it can grip the crank pretty tightly.

If you remove the hand hole covers on the block, you can check pretty easily. You can also remove the connecting rod caps and re-shim them via the hand holes. I have a 1928 1020, and it's pretty much the same. I forget what the running clearance should be.

Best of luck!
 
I pulled the oil line to the gauge off and there is oil coming out, not much pressure. Not like it was spraying everywhere. I was thinking about running a little thicker oil. Maybe 20-50. Can the oil pump be changed by dropping the pan?
 
If it has been setting a lot in a humid/outdoor environment, the main bearings, which are a ball bearing, may be pitted and are trying to lock up
 
Could be several things. Pull the pan and check several things:
1. Connect an air hose to the oil "distributor" that fills the trays in the pan for the "Rod Dippers" on each rod to get oil. I have had one of the 4 openings get clogged and burn out a bearing.
2. As others have said, check the clearance for each rod. Add or remove shims to get the desired clearance. I use pasti-guage to get 0.005 inch for each rod.
3. Remove and clean the oil pump. I believe it is held in place by 1 bolt.
4. Check the oil lines for clogs
These old engines don't need much oil pressure. Just enough to keep oil in the "Dipper trays" and a little for the governor.
10W30 oil should be fine.
Good Luck and keep us posted.
 
Ok. Pulled the oil pump out. There isn't a gasket between the plate that holds the gears in and the pump, shouldn't there be one? There isn't one in the top of the pump where the "tube" bolts onto the pump. 1920's technology but I would assume gaskets would go in these hot spots for pressure loss.
 
(quoted from post at 12:34:47 10/06/16) Ok. Pulled the oil pump out. There isn't a gasket between the plate that holds the gears in and the pump, shouldn't there be one? There isn't one in the top of the pump where the "tube" bolts onto the pump. 1920's technology but I would assume gaskets would go in these hot spots for pressure loss.

No, there is not supposed to be any gaskets in either of those two locations. These are not high pressure pumps, so a little loss is no big deal
 

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