Hello everyone. I just recently purchased a property and in the barn is a 1954 Farmall Super H. It's in good shape, has the wide front end and has been converted to 12v. The gas in the tank is very, very old so tomorrow I'll be draining that out and putting fresh gas in. I cleaned the points, changed the plugs and looked the whole tractor over and everything seems great other than a few small leaks. Although I am a mechanic, I am very new to farm tractors so I have a few questions. First, what sort of things should I look for? Second, from what I've read, these seem to be somewhat rare tractors, is that true? And third, what is the value of one of these in good shape? Other than needing a bath, the tractor looks very nice overall and it even came with a 5 foot brush hog and tire chains!
- Thread starter BNJeepsta
- Start date
If you know how long it has been sitting in the barn since last run and it has been awhile I would check the oil and change it out if you have your doubts about it.
Change spark plugs too if it has been a few years since last being run. When you go to start it if it doesn't pop or start you will also want to check that you have spark
at the plugs.
I would not consider these tractors rare at all. They were made in much smaller quantities than the Farmall H, but there were still almost 30,000 of these tractors
produced and they are not much different than a Farmall H other than a little more power. They are typically not worth too much more than a normal Farmall H, and at least
in my area can commonly be found for sale around $2000 in unrestored but good shape
~FarmallCT
Change spark plugs too if it has been a few years since last being run. When you go to start it if it doesn't pop or start you will also want to check that you have spark
at the plugs.
I would not consider these tractors rare at all. They were made in much smaller quantities than the Farmall H, but there were still almost 30,000 of these tractors
produced and they are not much different than a Farmall H other than a little more power. They are typically not worth too much more than a normal Farmall H, and at least
in my area can commonly be found for sale around $2000 in unrestored but good shape
~FarmallCT
cornerpost
Member
If it is a 1954 it will have battery
under seat, front bolster with two
vertical holes, and probably live
hydraulic pump. Also three bolt starter
IIRC.
under seat, front bolster with two
vertical holes, and probably live
hydraulic pump. Also three bolt starter
IIRC.
It does have the battery under the seat and live hydraulics. I already change the plugs and I plan on changing the
oil as well. Are these good tractors? I've seen tons of H's before but, never a Super H with the wide front end. I
would love to get a snow plow and a loader for it if that's possible?
oil as well. Are these good tractors? I've seen tons of H's before but, never a Super H with the wide front end. I
would love to get a snow plow and a loader for it if that's possible?
Janicholson
Well-known Member
I agree, but believe the live hydraulics does add to both utility and value. Probably 500 on original price today, and far more in utility usefulness. They are solid tractors with no real issues. Brake maintenance once or twice a year is normal easy and doesn't require cash. Very nice tractors. Jim
used red MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coon Rapids, MN
Don't know what area you're in but if you have "dirt daubers" or mud wasps around pull the air
intake precleaner above the hood and check for them nesting in there. Also check the crankcase
vent tube below the oil filter they like to plug that as well. Also may want to check how nasty the
contents of the oil cup on the bottom of the oil bath air filter look. When that is off you can look
straight down the intake tube to see if it is clear. When you get fresh gas in pull the plug on the
bottom of the carb and see if you get a good flow of gas. Like catch it in something, should get at
least a pint in 3 min. Just FYI there is a screen behind the fuel inlet fitting of the carb. If the low flow
that is a good place to start. Great tractors very useful around an acreage and very dependable.
Have fun with her! And sorry, but these are rare only in the mind of someone trying to scam an
unsupecting buyer.
intake precleaner above the hood and check for them nesting in there. Also check the crankcase
vent tube below the oil filter they like to plug that as well. Also may want to check how nasty the
contents of the oil cup on the bottom of the oil bath air filter look. When that is off you can look
straight down the intake tube to see if it is clear. When you get fresh gas in pull the plug on the
bottom of the carb and see if you get a good flow of gas. Like catch it in something, should get at
least a pint in 3 min. Just FYI there is a screen behind the fuel inlet fitting of the carb. If the low flow
that is a good place to start. Great tractors very useful around an acreage and very dependable.
Have fun with her! And sorry, but these are rare only in the mind of someone trying to scam an
unsupecting buyer.
cornerpost
Member
They are excellent tractors. Does it have IH wide front? Tie rods in front or back of axle? If aftermarket wide front such as Schwartz will have a serial plate on front somewhere. Also does it have the Christmas tree hydraulic valve and a remote for 2 way cylinder?
Bob M
Well-known Member
I own a pair of SH's - a '53 and a '54. All around excellent tractors - nimble, lots of power and easy on fuel.
----
A few more tips before you attempt the first start:
- Remove the rocker box and check for stuck valves/disengaged push rods. For some reason both my SH's usually have at least on lightly stuck valve if they sit idle longer than about 6 months. Cranking the engine with a stuck valve then causes the associated pushrod to disengage.
- Before replacing the rocker cover liberally oil the moving parts by pouring a quart of oil over the rockers/valve stems.
- Remove each plug and squirt an ounce or so of oil into each jug. Or shoot a blast of WD40 into each cylinder. This helps with compression on the first start.
- Remove the carburetor bowl drain plug and let a quart or so of fresh gas flow thru the bowl before replacing the plug.
Good luck - you have acquired a good little tractor!
----
A few more tips before you attempt the first start:
- Remove the rocker box and check for stuck valves/disengaged push rods. For some reason both my SH's usually have at least on lightly stuck valve if they sit idle longer than about 6 months. Cranking the engine with a stuck valve then causes the associated pushrod to disengage.
- Before replacing the rocker cover liberally oil the moving parts by pouring a quart of oil over the rockers/valve stems.
- Remove each plug and squirt an ounce or so of oil into each jug. Or shoot a blast of WD40 into each cylinder. This helps with compression on the first start.
- Remove the carburetor bowl drain plug and let a quart or so of fresh gas flow thru the bowl before replacing the plug.
Good luck - you have acquired a good little tractor!
cornerpost
Member
Nice tractor.
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