1944 Farmall Throttle plate

banjoman09

Well-known Member
Seems strange when my tractor is "not running" I can pull the throttle lever clear back- or wide open - and it stays in place. But when running - it only goes half throttle - when I pull it further it slides back down the teeth....like the spring is to stout? Looking closely it does appear the top half of teeth are not as "pronounced" as the bottom half- also there is a "notch" in the lever where it meshes with the teeth. Anyone have a "good throttle mechanism" for sale...good teeth? I know they have new ones...but...you know how this rebuilding goes. Thanks!
 
The governor weights push directly on the spring as they swing out the compressed spring pushes on the linkage to the handle. The teeth are one of two types, saw tooth with a slanted pawl on the lever that catches into the saw teeth. When they engage, they are under cut and hold against what yours does. A sharp triangle file can be used on both the ratchet teeth, and the pawl in the handle. The other type has square notches and a square pawl on the handle. These teeth can also be filed square. Both types need a pretty good spring in the center of the housing to limit seld slippage. In addition it is very good practice to pull down on the handle and then move the lever to the desired position. Raking the pawl along the teeth is the cause of wear. An M&W style friction hand lever is a nice after market replacement. Jim
 
This site has 3 different original style lever assemblies. Google shows friction styles from 16$ for reproduction levers to 250$ for used M&W levers. Jim
 
This is just my experience, others may vary. Friction throttles on those tractors unless adjusted real stiff will vibrate from wide open also in use. I sometimes rig a helper spring an brackets under hood to help those stay wide open. Adjust spring pressure to move throttle linkage toward full throttle but just light enough to not pull throttle linkage off idle when moved there. Don't know a spring number but a longer one works better than a short one.
 
(quoted from post at 07:38:32 08/26/16) This is just my experience, others may vary. Friction throttles on those tractors unless adjusted real stiff will vibrate from wide open also in use. I sometimes rig a helper spring an brackets under hood to help those stay wide open. Adjust spring pressure to move throttle linkage toward full throttle but just light enough to not pull throttle linkage off idle when moved there. Don't know a spring number but a longer one works better than a short one.

That is what I have found also. If you tighten it enough that it won't just vibrate down to the idle position, then it is also very difficult to adjust. I don't like them.
 

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