IH 574 distributor gear, help!!

Went through the whole no spark replace parts routine, even updated to electronic ignition and kept having a no start issue. I had my girlfriend crank while I was changing the distributor position thinking it might still be a timing issue when I noticed that the distributor was only sometimes trying to spin which explains the intermittent voltage I'm seeing on my multimeter. Took it off and the drive gear tang is incredibly wobbly/loose. Almost like nothing is holding it in place at all yet it won't come all the way out of the tach housing with pliers.
I removed the tach cable but can't tell if the stub out is removable or not and without it removed I can spin off the distributor base. Anyone know if that tach stub does thread off? I did try but wasn't able to get it to budge and I hate to snap the housing.
Plus, once I get into that what am I likely to find? I've looked at the manual and every parts book I can find and there isn't any good diagrams of what that gear/assembly looks like and where it could break. Is there a shear pin or a set screw holding the gear to the shaft, etc?
I'm at a loss and dead in the water on some very time sensitive projects. Any help whatsoever would be appreciated.

A C200 engine, same as 674 I'm assuming. The
distributor drive does thread in, and I
believe needs to be removed first. The drive
shaft is simply a slotted shaft about 2
1/2ish inches long. Ours on one if our 674's
broke the tang off the oil pump drive shaft.
I wonder if yours did the same and the
pieces are wedging in there, or if your oil
pump gear is stripped out. That little shaft
was NLA from Case IH last I checked, and it
was last priced around $300. I got ours from
a salvage yard for $10. And a new oil pump.

Oh, and if you want to find parts from Case
IH, go to "search by model", and don't type
in 574, type in "C-200", just like that. If
you put in C200, it won't work. That will
give you access to all the engine stuff. I
think the only engine option under the 574
is just the D239 diesel. I also noticed that
the picture of the oil pump on the Case IH
page for the C-200 isn't correct, or doesn't
have enough detail. The pic above shows what
your oil pump should look like on top once
you pull the drive shaft out. Hopefully it's
not the drive shaft, because they aren't
cheap, and seems everyone knows that. I got
lucky to know a guy that had the one I got,
his last one. Hopefully it's not the oil
pump tang, as that is a bit pricey as well,
and the pan isn't as fun as a tractor with a
true frame.

Ross

Ross,

Thanks much for the info. I was going nuts looking at the Case page. Definitely needed that tip. I'm not excited to get into this, but seems to be par for the course with these tractors.

Ryan

They are very good tractors, we have 2 674
tractors and love them. They are very
durable and handy little tractors. All
tractors have weak points that show up
sooner or later...

Well I got it all apart and nothing is standing out as the issue. I realize it is probably a good thing it wasn't the oil tang but I'm back to square one. Guess I'll try to replace the plug wires and go from there. Probably should have done that before tearing all of it apart.

Ok so here's an update. Distro, tach and oil pump gears were fine. Replaced way too much to list, just suffice to say all electrical ignition part. After a LOT of fiddling and checking AND having a retired mechanic friend stopping by every electrical part checked out. At that point we had electricity to the distributor but could not for the life of us get any spark out under any circumstance. So I caved in and sprung for a new distributor assembly even though I have replaced each part separately already. Got the distributor today, popped it in and for the first time since this died I do now have spark to each plug (multimeter is showing roughly 10-15 volts at spark)...but now I cannot get any cylinder to fire. I reset the timing to 20 BDC with the rotor aligned at the #1 cylinder. I also adjusted the timing forward and backward when that failed...nothing. I sprayed starter fluid in the intake, nothing. I even tried a little in 2 cylinders (separate times). No fire. I'm a bit stumped. Is it possible the cam is shot? Seems like an odd thing to happen and I'd think that by spraying direct into the cylinders I would at least get some sort of popping when the plugs spark. Nothing sounds bad when cranking it over either...no grinding or obvious binding.

Any thoughts? I'm at my wits end and I NEED this tractor running ASAP or my family will not have heat this winter.

So here's a thought I just came up with. Is it possible that when I reinstalled the distro gear I aligned the tang position wrong? If that's the case then the timing will be off when I set it according to the crank markings...right? Anyone got a clue how to ensure proper alignment of the tang? Please tell me if I sound crazy or on the right track here. This thing has got me miffed.

Shouldn't be off at all, unless you removed the oil pump. The oil pump is driven off the camshaft, and since the end of the oil pump shaft just has the tang on it, it shouldn't matter which way you stuck the little shaft back in there. But check it, the drive tang on an Oliver fleetline is offset just the slightest bit. I don't think the IH one is, but recheck.