Cub drawbar weight

jsfarmall

Member
I'm wanting to build a carry all for my
cub. Going to make it to work on a 2in
reciever hitch bolted to the drawbar. How
much weight would be safe to carry? I
belive the heaviest thing I'll carry is my
25 gallon spray tank mounted as close to
the rear end as possible. I figure that
will be a little over 200lbs considering
the weight of the carry all too.
 
The drawbar on a Cub is not built to have 200lbs wt. If you want to carry the tank why not build a seperate bracket to hold it not using drawbar that way you still can use the drawbar while the tank is mounted. If you must use the drawbar better run support up to the final so the orignal bracket can carry the wt. How about mounting it up front on the left side that way no obstruction driving and wt no problem.
 
(quoted from post at 08:56:24 08/16/16)If you must use the drawbar better run support up to the final so the orignal bracket can carry the wt.

At the least, you should run your receiver forward and support it with a crossbar at the front of the final drive housings. The Cub drawbar is probably OK with the weight, but would not hold up to the twisting of just attaching to the drawbar.

(quoted from post at 08:56:24 08/16/16)How about mounting it up front on the left side that way no obstruction driving and wt no problem.

Mounting up front on the right would help even up the weight of the engine. Mounting on the left would make the tractor unnecessarily unstable. A lot of transplanters were used on Cubs with a 55 gallon drum mounted on the right.
 
I remember standing on my Cub drawbar to help with plowing snow. My buddy did as well and neither of us were skinny reeds. Don't ever recall the drawbar being in danger of bending or breaking or twisting.

Chris B.
 
Well I figure the U shaped drawbar, which is what will be used, can hold the weight. I stand on it to get in the driver seat as tall as I am that's the easiest. Mainly I was concerned about breaking the final drive bolt holes. The draw bar and brackets are carbon steel which is very easily fixed but I didn't know if the casts could handle the force of that driving around. I thought about mounting up front somewhere but I will usually be using it when my mower is mounted up and also want the option to mount my blade if need be. I don't want to break anything at all. Also I can just put 10 or 15 gallons in. That would cut the weight back alot.
 
Mounting on the left side same height as the torque tube will no upset the tractor leaving the drawbar open for other uses and not interfear with the mower.
 
The main reason castings break is because people don't keep the mounting bolts tight. If you do that, the chances of breaking a housing are fairly small. In either case (bending the drawbar or breaking a housing) the chances of damage will be considerably less if you support the front of your receiver with a cross bar as I suggested in my first post.
 
You might want to consider front wheel weights. That front end is lighter than you realize. On my '48 I use two wheel weights on each front wheel. I also have a rear weight on each of the back tires(not loaded). You don't realize how light the front end is until the front wheels come off the ground and it can happen quicker than you think.
 
Yes. Use the ones way to the front. These are the same holes the swinging drawbar uses (if you are familiar with that attachment).
 
I don't have the swinging drawbar but I am
familiar. I very highly doubt I would ever
weight it down to the point of getting the
front off the ground cause I got 2 bigger
tractors and a truck but my biggest concern
is those final drive castings. I sure
appreciate the idea. That would spread the
load out more evenly.
 

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