Farmall 706 aux valve tubing

jimmyO

Member
Hi all;
I've got this thing together and it's running pretty well, it seems.
So, now to fix the leaks on the aux valves, which I mentioned a while ago.
Here is a photo of what I have. The hydraulic tubes are welded to the other side of the block at the left of the photo, and that block is bolted to a support bracket. Nothing is moveable. I can't remove the valve end cap, sleeve, and internal parts because of the way the tubing has been bent. I don't believe this is "original", but I can't find any photos of what original might have been. Perhaps all installations are farmerized?
At any rate, can someone tell me if these tubing configurations are standard? Can I get original tubes? Do I have to have someone weld me up a solution?
This is a lot of work just to get to some O rings!!!
a232580.jpg
 
Well to get to the valves to replace the LATCHING Valve your going to have to remove some tubing , there is two O/Rings per bolt so your going to need 8 O/Rings there plus the latching valves and a couple O/Rings there . At one time some implement came up hooked and due to someone being CHEAP and not installing hose off the block to break away couplers the block and tubes got bent . So that block has to come off and to do this you need to remove the tubes off the top .
 
Yup, bent up tubes need to come off. I would straighten things out while they are still bolted on. Also, you no doubt have tubes running to the front on both side. Unless you really think you need them, I would tear them all off and throw them away. You will thank me when the time comes to get at the range transmission cover for shifting repairs. Did I say, I hate those front tubes.
 
Oh come on Pete where's your spirt of ADVENTURE here . I think i have bought everyone that had them . Yep they are a pain . My 806 has them Eugene's 706 has them and his brother 706 has them > every 707 around here has them , oh wait they were some of the ones i drug out of Indiana . Thank god and Mac tools for the angle head wrench .
 
Thanks for the comments. With them, and a lot more time staring at the tractor and the parts manual, I have I think figured something out.
So, originally the hydraulic tubes went OVER (under)? the foot platform, and to some threaded holes in the steering column. Yes, that's probably OK if you are running something in the front of the tractor, like my loader. But it's clumsy if you are running something in the rear, like my snow blower. So somewhere along the line, someone installed this block thing which is causing me so much grief. It was a half good idea, in that the block has a solid support bracket. Bad idea when I have to work on the valves themselves. I'm supposing he/she had to re-bend the tubes from the inner valve to the block to make that happen.
Since this whole thing is apparently customized (I kinda like the term "farmerized"!), I'm thinking the easiest and best fix is to have someone simply(?) bend the tubes and brackets (on the left in the photo) to a higher position so that they don't block anything and I can work on the valves. Does anyone see anything wrong with this?


One other question: The outer valve body (to the left in the photo) has banjo-bolt tubes that go through heavy metal and then to the hoses you see. In the manual, those quick release fittings are there, AND the banjo-bolt tubes go to one of the set of fittings on the steering column (but not on my tractor). Was this something that could have been ordered either way, to have fittings from the steering column OR from the rear?

Anyway, thanks for the responses. It's an education!
Jim
 
No not reall as you could get that from factory . The side ones were for cultivators and loaders . Like pete said try and straighten that block and lines up then remove the couplers add two hoses with two 90degree swizel fittings then a quick disconect coupler or as some call them breakawy couplers as it shold have been done in the first place .
 
If you decide to rid your self of the front lines. You can just thread in a 7/8-14 Elbow with pipe thread out end. Then just use hoses from there to the couplers with a bracket to hold the couplers. This will let them do their job if things come unhooked. Also will eliminate the fooling with the bolts and several o-rings.
 
all the ones on my dads 706/german diesel/cab have been converted to rubber as well as the ones across the foot platform on both of our 560s.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top