450...The Saga Continues

Ok, I charged the battery and had it tested, (its good), picked up the starter ($175.00), and got new terminals for the starter connecting wires (the smaller ones) and went back to the farm. Installed the terminal ends, starter, battery. Wanted to see if it would turn over before more troubleshooting. Turned on fuel, choked it, hit starter button. It turned over twice and burst to life!! I actually did a little victory dance with my wife looking on shaking her head!

Climbed aboard and used 4th gear to leave the lot, then used 5th gear DD and started the 13 mile trip to the shop. About a mile into the trip I throttled her down to make a turn, and when I throttled her up she shuddered and acted like she had trash in the carb. It ran so rough and vibrated enough to make the throttle jump out of high, so I held it down for a cpl miles. It finally smoothed out and ran fine the rest of the trip. Wife said she ran a consistent 15 mph.

Got to the shop and doors were open so I drove her in and parked on the slab. I climbed down and saw black nasty oil dripping from the rear of the engine. I moved her to the gravel and idled her down again. I knew the oil was old and nasty and replacing it is on the agenda.

My mechanic came out and looked at the leak and said it looks like the rear main seal...but wont know until he gets it cleaned and can check it out.

SO.....if it IS the rear main seal what am I in for? How many ways are there to fix it? The leak looked to serious to be operating it, unless I stop every hour and put more oil in.

Thoughts, ideas, and suggestions are welcomed.

E.

Oh btw, I forgot to mention. When I cranked her up the amp gauge showed a heavy discharge, which was bothersome as the battery tested good and charged. After I drove it a while the gauge moved to neutral, then went to showing charging about half way. Do you think the wires got crossed on the gauge? A while back someone had a similar question and was told the gauge was wired backwards...thoughts?

(quoted from post at 06:14:19 07/01/16) Oh btw, I forgot to mention. When I cranked her up the amp gauge showed a heavy discharge, which was bothersome as the battery tested good and charged. After I drove it a while the gauge moved to neutral, then went to showing charging about half way. Do you think the wires got crossed on the gauge? A while back someone had a similar question and was told the gauge was wired backwards...thoughts?

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Just guessing, but it sounds like the gauge is wired correctly. Possibly the generator or voltage regulator may have been malfunctioning.

The shuddering and sputtering you experienced after about one mile sounds like a spark plug fouled out, and then cleared itself. That sort of thing does happen when the tractor has not been worked hard for awhile, and then gets put on the road at wide open throttle. In other words, you blew the cobs out of it.

Rusty, would the gauge show a heavy charge even after the tractor was run hard almost an hour? I had no lights on and like I said the battery was fully charged before installing it. The fact that at first it showed discharge then charge puzzles me a little.

Any thoughts on my leak? To soon to tell?

If it was discharging during cranking that would be a normal thing. Then it would show a charge after it gets to running and you wind it up some. It even might show a discharge if the belt is a bit loose when you first start it. Then after you open it up some the generator starts charging.
As for the rough running after deceleration that might happen if it has been setting and things start to clear out. Could also be a spec of dirt that came loose.

One way for the seal, the tractor has to be split.

(quoted from post at 06:50:43 07/01/16)
Rusty, would the gauge show a heavy charge even after the tractor was run hard almost an hour? I had no lights on and like I said the battery was fully charged before installing it. The fact that at first it showed discharge then charge puzzles me a little.

Any thoughts on my leak? To soon to tell?

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The heavy charge after running for one hour indicates a faulty voltage regulator.

1. I think the rear main seal can be done through the belly pump hole on an H. The clutch and pressure plate will definitely come out through that hole, and I think the flywheel might too. Might actually be easier to split it though. On an H the only factory items that cross the bell housing is the generator wiring and steering shaft.

2. You can quickly and easily get an idea of what the generator is doing, and whether the meter is wired correctly, by measuring battery voltage with a meter. If you get 6.3V or higher while the ammeter shows heavy discharge, that means it's charging and the ammeter is wired backwards. It's very rare for the ammeter to be wired backwards, though.

Why did I think it was an H? I'm stupid.

Yes it will have to be split.

Also if it's 12V the meter should measure at least 12.7 on the battery if it's charging.

Not on an H nor on a 450. It must be split to get at the rear main deal retainer and seal. Jim

I'm going to put the rear main seal on my list of things to do, cause no way am I looking forward to splitting Charlene so soon. I just found out I'm going to need a valve cover gasket; looks like Charlene is getting her valves ran. I'm sure my mechanic friend knows the gap, but can someone on here please tell me. Do I need a gasket set or can I just get the valve cover gasket?

I saw on here a source for good quality American made gauges, but cant locate it now. Can someone help me out?

Very good odds you have a rear main seal leaking. Only one way to fix it and that is to split the tractor. It isn't a bad job. Borrow or build yourself a set of stands and it won't be too hard. Unfortunately having it split will lead to a lot of "while I'm in here" type scenarios. Clutch, pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearings, TA and so on. Good luck.