sediment bowl leaking badly

michaelr

Member
ok, so got the M fired up and running. happy but the dang sediment bowl is leaking. I got a new rubber gasket for it at Tractor Supply. Was not happy it was a thin rubber one. I was
hoping for cork. The rubber one from Tractor Supply leaks like mad. Would like to get a cork one. Any ideas on how or what to stuff on there to stop the leak?
 
Well #1 TSC is tractor stuff China so tha twas mistake big time. Me I get my sediment bowl gaskets at O'Reilly's auto parts stores. part #398 fuel strainer gasket
 
Are you sure you got the correct size. I always take the metal part of the sediment bowl along to make sure i get the rite size rubber one from NAPA. Then you need to make sure your frame isnt warped from over tightening it happens all too many times. If the glass rocks without a gasket its probably warped. Good metal frame and correct gasket can be leakproff finger tight.
 
Greetings,

You can use a bar of soap to seal the leaking sediment bowl. Classically one uses Ivory but any bar of soap will work. Take the sediment bowl and scrape the the lip of the bowl across the surface of the bar of soap. The scraped off particles will stick to edge of bowl. Rotate bowl and repeat until there particles of soap all around top edge of bowl. Carefully reassemble and tighten. The waxy soap particles will seal the gasket. My father showed me this frighteningly close to 50 years ago
 
After buying gaskets from 3 different sources and none of them worked I switched my H and M over to a ball valve with an inline filter. Took out the steel line and replaced it with rubber fuel line. Haven't had a single drip since I did that 2 years ago.

Just something to think about in case you can't find one that fits.
 
I have wasted a lot of time and effort trying to get an old sediment bowl to stop leaking. Seems like many are over tightened, which warps the base and ruins the unit. Never tried the soap trick. Replacing the bowl with a valve and inline filter doesn't look original, but sure works. Did this on 2 of antique tractors years ago and they still work just fine. Much of the replacement stuff today is made in China and absolute junk, so you take your chances with that. At least if you buy from a store like Tractor Supply Corp you can take it back if it's no good.
 
On the old tractors that the base is warped I have cemented two gaskets (rubber or cork) together with a cement that fuel won't effect and it has always worked.
 
No doubt base is warped out of shape. Easy to tell with no gasket if bowl rocks in place. I have straightened more than a few over the years. In a vise with spacers to fit or in arbor press. Some you just throw away though. Worst ones were the big ones on like the 4 & 560 diesels.
 
Here is a picture of the gasket
a230813.jpg
 
Perhaps you tried this - but that glass can take a lot of pressure -crank the knob with pliers and you should be able to stop the leak.
 
Cork, all the way. Just picked up a rubber one NAPA/Balkamp #730-9506. But I just called and ordered the

SpeeCo - Fuel Bowl Gasket
Line: SPC Part # S04103

I have more faith in cork than rubber on that fuel bowl.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top