help removing the muffler adapter on the exhaust manifold

1946 A model

That piece was broken off when someone must have hit the muffler. Both bolts (or nuts and bolt?) are pretty rusty on this 1946 A model. I'm hoping to put some heat/hammer taps on them and PBBlaster, wait a few days and repeat, then wait some more, and finally remove em. I dont have a torch but could get some Map gas- cant remember if I put the heat on the bolts/nuts or on the manifold. My idea is to just make a plate to cover that manifold with .25" steel and weld a short length of pipe on top so a muffler (or probably just an 18" pipe with the end turned down).

Thanks, George Penick
 
Does that have an all fuel manifold on it?
Most A's just have the short pipe threaded
into the manifold. As old as those fasteners
are, you may fight getting them out without
an oxy/acetylene torch. Heat the nuts to get
them off, unless you want to try to get the
studs out of the manifold, which may not be
very easy without a torch or drilling them
out
 
I dont have the tractor here yet, are those two bolts that hold it on screwed/threaded into the actual manifold or are they bolts and nut that just clamp the parts together?

t
 
Just saw the other reply.......so I need to try some heat on the nuts (that I can see on TOP of the broken piece, correct?

a
 
Since I'm just guessing that you must have
an all fuel manifold, I couldn't tell you
how it's set up unless you had a picture of
it. I will tell you however, that probably
90% of Farmall A tractors will have the
manifold pictured above, that just has the
pipe that screws into the top of the
manifold.

Ross
a230383.jpg
 
I believe I"m one of the 10%! There are two nuts or bolt heads showing on top, but one side of that plate is broken off.

37298.jpg
37299.jpg
 
I had a chimney made to fit the top of the kerosene/distillate manifold. I think I have the drawings somewhere, it was a piece of tube, the bottom cut and expanded sideways and 2 triangular fillets all welded to a base plate,. If just a pipe welded to the flange the air-flow will be very badly affected
 
Now I am confused. You mention a kerosene tank- is that whats on top of this manifold that has the broken top? Then you say if I can get the bolts out, and make a plate with a pipe stack about 18" that I'd hurt the exhaust flow? More details please...........george




esil
 
The Gasoline tank was not on or near the manifold, opposite side toward the distillate tank. The only thing to worry about when messing with the flange, is
putting rags tightly down the exhaust runners in the manifold to keep particles out of the cylinders. They can get through the runners and into a open exhaust
valve. Jim
 
ALSO, do the two bolt screw into the manifold or do they have nuts on the bottom? Any suggestions for getting them out w/o breaking the manifold?


hth
 
If you are lucky enough to get those bolts out and want to keep your existing manifold, I have a real good(might even be NOS) piece to replace your broken one. I'll let you have it for a very affordable price. Let me know on this forum if you want/need it.
 
Im still confused, evidently I have the rare manifold- what is the difference than the one pictured that came on 90% of A's- of course I can see the pipe just screwed into that common one, but mine has a separate 'top' that the pipe fits on, right? I am asking how to get the bolts out- dont have the tractor here yet, so I wondered if they are bolts screwed INTO the manifold or just long bolts that have nuts on the bottom?
Can you email me here about that piece? thanks, George ([email protected])



quote="antiqueIH"](reply to post at 15:49:32 06/25/16) [/quote]
 
It is a stud screwed into the manifold with a 7/16 nut on the top. Heat the nuts to remove them. Don't attempt to remove the studs if they can be cleaned up and reused.
 
Goerge, I guess I didn't see that anyone had
directly answered your question, but that
sure looks like an all-fuel manifold to me.
Does your hood have an extra hole in it that
isn't filled by the exhaust, air stack, or
oil fill cap? If it does, it would be where
the neck of a small 1 gallon tank would go
through. You filled that small tank with
gas, and when the engine was good and hot,
you would run it on kerosene that was in the
"regular" gas tank. I believe all all-fuel
tractors had radiator shutters, does yours?
Now this is all a guess as I have never
looked at an all fuel A up close, but it
sure looks like an all fuel manifold to me.
That big chamber was used to preheat the
intake air to help burn the kerosene. What
is your serial number? I'm pretty sure you
can tell from the serial number, but you'd
have to rely on one of the guys that is
better at serial numbers than me.

Ross
 
Athol Carr:
Is this the part you made? If I can get my old nuts off the studs, guess I can do the same. You say the base needs to be wider/more open than just a pipe. Surprised since the standard manifold just has the pipe sticking straight up? Thanks, George

2 Bolt Flanged Exhaust Pipe
 
Sorry but so far I cannot find the drawings that I made for the engineers to fabricate my chimney (same shape as the original cast one used on Farmall A and B). The kerosene/distillate chimney is tapered which would give a better gas flow from the rectangular opening in the top of the manifold to the exhaust pipe whereas a sharp right angle turn would not help gas flow. OEM in about 2004 had a cast chimney in their catalogue but it disappeared from later catalogues. I tried finding one but they seem to be scarcer than hen's teeth. Ones for Farmall H and W-4 seem to be readily available on ebay so I have a spare for the W-4. I am aware that the standard gasoline manifold has a straight pipe but I suspect that the inside of the casting is made with a curved transition to the vertical pipe. When I bought my 1948 kerosene Super A it had a flat plate with a vertical pipe welded to it (the muffler was also welded to the pipe and that had to be removed with a hacksaw to to get the tractor into the shed) and I wanted something that matched the original. The fabricated chimney is a very good match to the original in shape. The studs in the top of my manifold were replaced as they were rather badly rusted as well as butchered by previous owners.
 
(quoted from post at 00:51:24 06/26/16). . . I am aware that the standard gasoline manifold has a straight pipe but I suspect that the inside of the casting is made with a curved transition to the vertical pipe. . . .
The gasoline manifold doesn't have a huge recirculation damper right in the middle of the exhaust path either.
 

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