1947 Farmall M Episode 15: What a TEASE!

Ken Christopherson

Well-known Member
Hey fellas! Well, Episode 15 has been finished, and so has reassembly! I didn't have much left to do. Mounted the gauges, slid in the steering shaft, installed the spark plugs and wires, and mounted the generator. After all that was done, I began installing the tin work - the grille was first, then I went to work on installing the tank (but had to make a quick run to the hardware store for a couple fittings for the sediment bowl), and finally the hood. Last I made some of my own battery cables using welding cable and copper tubing for the ends. Topped it off with fluids and no leaks so far! I think everything is turning out great!

If you watch the video, there is a little teaser at the end. Let's just say I have to get a new battery as this one doesn't crank over fast enough - but the good news is the starter and starter switch work! :-D

Stay tuned for the GRAND FINALE episode 16! Thank you all for your help and support over the last few months - so far it's been great!

Also, one thing I had a question on was the auxiliary tank for the loader. How do I plumb that in to the liftall system? From what I have seen in pictures it looks like the outlet on the bottom of the tank is connected via hose to the inlet/fill tube on the touch control system. Is this correct?

Thanks all!
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1947 Farmall M Episode 15 Teaser
 
Man, you don't mess around! Once you got all your parts, you went all gung ho on it lol. It looks really good though, that's a nice tractor
 
If the new battery won't spin it over you might check that starter button switch. It maybe getting to the point that its not carrying a full load of currant to the starter. I don't remember hearing if you refreshed the starter and a M turns over hard after a complete overhaul.
 
I'm not sure I need an auxiliary tank, but the loader did come with it. The loader cylinders are quite big/long. Wasn't sure if I needed the extra fluid to lift the bucket to full height.
 
Ok everyone. Went back today with a new battery in an attempt to get my first start. Was not able to get it to fire off of gas from the carburetor (even at full choke). Here is where I am at with all of my settings:

Valves: Set at .018, cold. (calls for .017 hot).
Mag impulse: set to fire #1 as the first of the two 'double notches' on the pulley as it passes the timing needle on the front timing cover. Plug wires set up as 1-3-4-2 in a clockwise rotation (looking at the back of the rotor). Checked for spark - hot purple/blue spark. Spark plugs gap set at .025.
Carburetor: Idle mixture screw adjusted to 1 1/2 turns out. Load mixture screw adjusted to 2 3/4 turns out.
Cam and crank: single punch mark on cam lined up with single punch mark on crank.
Cam and magneto drive: double punch mark on cam lined up with double punch marks on magneto drive.

Even with full choke (no matter the throttle position), I seem to not be getting fuel past the carburetor. I know I've got good flow, I removed the line and got a steady stream. The carburetor does flood out and drain out the intake after a few cranks on full choke (so I know there is plenty of gas). I pulled the spark plugs, and they are dry as a bone, and have no smell of gas. I didn't try to pull start it but I cannot fathom why I'm not getting gas from the carburetor to the cylinders. I did spray some carburetor cleaner into the carb intake to see if I could get fire that way and I did get one loud "bang" out of the exhaust.

I'm at a loss.... Any ideas?
 

I think you need to open that load screw another turn.

Give it a squirt of gas from an oil can and try that.

These engines really do not need choking when warm outside.
 
That's what I figured, only my JD A needs a choke to get fuel in the cylinders. What throws me off is the spark plugs are completely dry, and do not even SMELL of gas.
 
I hope it's not a rag stuffed up the intake. Ha.
I had plugged all the holes on a 130 I was rebuilding and almost forgot more than once to remove the rags.
i.e. manifold intake, rad ports, rad, oil pickup pump, and on and on.
 
Ken, I would pull the plugs and put a couple of shots of motor oil in each cylinder.Then, with plugs still out, turn over engine with crank or starter. The rebuilt parts will add a lot of drag to the starter. Check your cable connections to make sure they are clean and shiney where they connect to block. Ground cable especially. If you are in an area where you could tow the tractor to start it would be easier on the starter. Or tow it around with the plugs out to loosen up the engine a bit before a true start. Good Luck, Jim.
 
Ken, Had one that the mag was out of time spark not at the post. would not fire at all.
It took some head scratchen to find the problem. Make sure your are geting spark at TDC.
oldiron29
 
Ken you should smell gas on the plugs, I do want to add that I have a 48' M that has a stroker crank and 450 pistons , with a up graded head and it it a bear to start at times . I have found it either cranks at the push of the button or go get a chain and another tractor to pull it , once running it will restart and is quite powerful but the starter isn't quite adequate for this updated engine . Wish you the best of luck .
 
It shouldn't be a rag, because I took the manifold directly out of the shipment bag and then painted it, after that it sat on the shelf (I never put anything into the ports, nor did I see anything).
 
I double checked the timing on this thing - the mag trips just as the first of the 'double notches' passes the timing needle on the front cover (per the manual). It's like I am not getting fuel from the carb to the motor. Plugs are bone dry, and there is not even a smell of gas on them.
 
I think that will be the next method I attempt is to pull-start it. I feel like I have double checked everything, and can't fathom why I am not getting fuel.
 

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