706 Farmall Issues.

A farmall that I have recently purchased, 706 type, seems to work quite well as far as running goes, though when I am moving either forward or backward especially at a low idle and I turn sharply the tractors movement becomes hesitant almost like it is falling out of gear. If I increase the revs it does this less so and by pulling down on the TA it will move through the turn better. I take it that the power steering is taking the fluid. Though I don't know what hydrolic fluid has to do with the forward movement of the tractor. Any input would be appreciated, thank you.

Over fill the hydraulic/trans fluid by 5 gallons. The added fluid hurts nothing and covers an Oring and components that leak air into the MCV pump. If it fixes it, it is a cheap fix. Jim

Well more then likely you have low MCV pump output or you have some issues in the MCV .

First,change the hydralic filter. The MCV(Power steering brakes TA) pump draws it's oil from the same filter as the 3 point/hydralic pump.The MCV gets starved if the filter becomes the slightest bit dirty.Or the MCV pump itself is worn/weak.It cant pump enough oil at an idle for things to funtion.A bit more rpm pumps enough fluid to get by.You may have both senarios at once. The hesitation/'jumping' is too low pressure to keep the TA locked up. It tries to 'default' by trying to shift into low TA. That condition will eventually cause the TA to fail.

The TA's main clutch is hydraulically actuated by the same pump that runs your power steering, that MCV pump everyone is talking about. That is why the steering affects the forward motion of the tractor.

Frankly overfilling by 5 gallons is a "Hail Mary" that probably won't fix it. Even if it works after changing the filter, I would keep an eye on it and deal with the pump at the next sign of trouble, in order to avoid a more expensive repair.

Thanks for the advice. I will be changing the hydrolic filter soon as well as bleeding the left side brake. There is leakage at varying points, so I take it that there is a certain amount of air in at least that brake line.

So what is wrong with the left brake ?? Need more info .

The left brake doesn't work, that is when I press down on the pedal it goes to the floor easily with no resistance. The right side break works fine. From what I read, I can warm the tractor up good, then open the bleeding screw on the left side and allow air to be released until nothing but fluid flows then tighten the bleed screw.As i mentioned there is oil seepage at varying points, most noticeably at the remote outlets, though the left side break is quite dry, There is a fair bit of oil by the looks of it under the floor panel. The shift linkage on the 1-2-3-4 is quite good with the range side having a fair degree of slop, much of it in the lever itself as it goes around the other shift lever. I'm not sure if there is a bushing to go in there. A clink the odd time in the rear end tells me that maybe a tooth or two could have been knocked out of the reverse gear with the difficulty one can have with the park lock and not being in neutral when one takes there foot off the clutch. I bought the tractor wanting to use it on a Gehl 1840 round baler. I hope it would do the job, I am on level ground around here and only have 10 or so acres to cover. I need to have the PTO clutch rebuilt as it doesn't shutoff. I have a couple old Fordsons that I use, so I have experience with Blue power. Red is new to me. Thank you for your attention and advice.

Well as for NO left brake you can try bleeding and you do not have to warm up the tractor , Just start it apply pressure to the left brake pedal and crack the bleeder. Now before you do that take the bleeder out and clean the hole as 90% of the time they are plugged with dirt and rust . But you may find that (1) the brake may have the splines broken off the disc's (2) bound up return springs (3) stuck or not working self adjusters (4) cocked brake piston (5) broken return springs. (6) plum slap wore out brake lining. Now as to your leaking Remote valves that is caused by the tiny little O/Ring on the latching valve piston and the only way to repair is to replace the latching valve piston . Your clicking is a tooth or two off rev drive gear and it will only get worse . Most times this is damaged by dropping it into park while the tractor is still moving . That gear is the last out and the first one back in and requires a split and complete tear down of the rear end along with smashed fingers . Now as to the PTO run on , this is probably due to warp clutch pac and maybe wore out brake pistons and maybe broken springs. This job needs a couple special tools to do (1) ya need a clutch pac spring compressor to go past the clutch pac , you only need to go past the clutch pac IF you are going to replace the 540 PTO seal , the brake pistons , replace the out put shafts or replace the two teflon seal rings . Next ya need a special fitting to go in the test port to set clutch pac lock up pressure . You use to be able to buy one from Case I H for UNDER ten bucks , BUT not nomore they think it is made of gold now. you also need a short hyd hose and a hyd gauge that will read 600 PSI. And a BOOK.

Thank you for your input, it is invaluable. You say a Book, what is of better use? The parts manual or service manual? As I come to certain discussions on line that will be vital to fixing some of these issues I print them, as I have done with the rebuild instructions for the PTO. I have a lot of respect for the complexity of this tractor so my concern at this point is to not make anything worse. In just running it and driving it a bit I notice that the oil pressure seems to drop as the tractor got warmer. The pressure seems high off the start, upwards of 60 psi but as it warmed up and I drove it down the road and back the pressure dropped to less than 30 psi at an idle, reving it up a bit brought it up some. I still haven't changed the hydrolic filter though I will be shortly. The left side brake pedal depresses and returns properly just with very little to no resistance. I bled that side of the brakes, some air came out. I guess taking up the floor plate and blowing it out and looking at what is under there wouldn't be a bad idea. Thank you for your attention and input.