400 Thermostat?

Is there a thermostat in the 400? Reason I ask is I cleaned the carb, changed the rotor and points, and it runs really hot now. Still not adjusted the guvner yet. I noticed the water coming out of the radiator overflow tube location as I have no tube coming out of the radiator. I can see where the seal from the radiator cap seats on the radiator fill. I drained it as it looked like beef stew. Some came out like pea soup but most of it was beef stew. I figure I should run water thru it a couple of times and then fill with around 1/3 antifreeze which would be 2 gallons. Tractor data says it is a 6 gallon liquid in the radiator or cooling system.
 
Probably need more than water to flush. Wouldn't waste antifreeze yet unless it gets below freezing, clean system and try water at first. May have a cracked head or block is the reason for getting hot and pushing coolant out, unless the system was to full. Suspect stop leak may be the reason for the crappy coolant look. 50 50 coolant mix would be better if everything turns out okay.
 

Understood. I expect the engine never got too hot to make the thermostat open. I looked at the points when I took them out and it looked like craters of the moon. I may try to keep it that hot for a bit to see if the water will get cleaner. I plan on pushing water thru a couple of times before I put some radiator/engine cleaner inside. Wonder if I should take out the thermostat before I do the major cleaning and see if it works at the prescribed temperature. I suppose a 160 would work too.

Thanks Bob. I looked but did not see that page.
 
Pour in a cup or so of cascade dish washer soap powder. Fill it up & run for 15 to 20 mins. Then drain & let it cool. Refill with water run for 15 to 20 mins & drain. This should remove any oil residue in the cooling system.
 
I would take the side cover off the engine and clean the block out real good, then do the same for the radiator.
 
RH, I shall do that. I have some 20 yr old stuff that will work for just that purpose.

Cleaning on the valve cover was not that much of a problem. It had a little bit there but not enough to make a massive difference in heat. While I was there, I noted the temp sensor looked a bit on the ratty side. So will get another one of them. The radiator looked like it had pretty much clean...I would guess about 80% or so thru the blades. But I took off the front and sprayed thru all of it. Will be looking for some captive nuts for the top cover the side covers attach to. Missing one each side of the radiator bottom. So that is why they had a bungee cord wrapped around the front screen cover. Little bit of cleaning there too where the pivot point is for the steering. I may have this ready to use by August. LOL
 
(quoted from post at 16:32:21 06/12/16) I would really recommend flushing around cylinders.

I think you lost me here. Are you talking about pulling the freeze bolt/wingbolt on the engine between the governor and the carb on the drivers side of the engine and the temperature sensor on the other side of the engine and pushing liquid thru that area?
 
I would bet the cylinders area is packed full of mud and rust.

Pull the metal cover on the side of the engine, take drain plug out, use power washer and stick wand in there anywhere you can reach.

You said it is running hot now, was it not running hot before?
 
(quoted from post at 17:06:30 06/12/16) I would bet the cylinders area is packed full of mud and rust.

Pull the metal cover on the side of the engine, take drain plug out, use power washer and stick wand in there anywhere you can reach.

You said it is running hot now, was it not running hot before?

Not that I could tell. Remember above that I fixed a couple of possible problems and it is running higher rpm until I fix the governor, now. But I agree with you that there could be a lot of stuff inside. I could do what I said just above your latest post and go digging. I just dont want to tear it apart. I dont have the room yet.
 

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